How to find the very best flamenco when you visit Sevilla
Many visitors to Sevilla arrive hoping to experience a traditional flamenco performance but not everyone is sure what this looks like or how to find a good one. This article will help you figure it all out.
As you read on you’ll learn about flamenco, what it is and its history and then I’ll share where to find the best shows in Sevilla. I am a huge fan of flamenco and am regularly moved to tears by performances in Sevilla.
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➕ The best tours & tickets sell out in advance. It’s recommendable to book these, & train travel in advance to ensure you get what you want
⭐️ Read more about your Alcazar tour options and book in advance
💃🏻 Book the MexicoCassie recommended Devour Tours tapas and flamenco tour – this tour will elevate your flamenco experience from being a nice touristic moment to actually understanding something of Andalucía’s history and its representation through the art of flamenco.
What is flamenco?
Flamenco is many things, not just, as you may think, a Spanish dance. It’s an integral part of Andaluz culture and heritage, it’s a language, it’s an art and it’s so much more. For this reason, in 2010, flamenco was added to the UNESCO list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Flamenco is an art form
While it’s often thought that flamenco is the dance, it’s actually primarily about the voice. There can be dancing and guitar playing too but the voice is the focal point of any flamenco experience. Flamenco is a protest, a form of resistance, a means of expressing pain.
🎤 Song – Cante is the vocal expression of flamenco
🎶 Music –Toque or the art of guitar playing has long surpassed its original role as accompaniment. Castanets, hand-clapping and foot-stamping are also used to make music
💃🏻 Dance – The flamenco baile is a dance of passion. It expresses a wide range of situations including pain, sadness, joy & humour.
Flamenco is improvisation
There are 54 palos, or forms of flamenco dance, and to be able to call yourself a ‘master’ of flamenco you need to know all of them.
The palos are a jumping off point for improvisation, they are a style or form of performance, whether a dance, song or musical piece. The best artists are improvising, no two flamenco shows will ever be the same.
Flamenco is passion
An intimate flamenco show is really something to behold. You’ll see raw emotion on the performers’ faces – they may not be smiling as they dance or sing, because flamenco is used to express pain, sadness, & melancholy as well as love and humour.
Your role, as a member of the audience, is to share in this passion, let it transport you, and not to get distracted or to distract the artists.
El Duende – you may have heard this term bandied if you’ve started paying attention to flamenco. There is no direct translation in English. Duende is the soul of flamenco, the spirit within the performer, and if you’re really lucky, it may find its way into you, too.
Flamenco is history
No one really knows where or when flamenco originated but the cuna de flamenco (the cradle of flamenco) is certainly considered to have been somewhere along the banks of the Guadalquivir River in the triangle between Cádiz, Sevilla and Jerez during the middle ages.
The word flamenco actually means ‘nomadic worker‘ in old Arabic. It was born as a subversive, underground means of expressing the pain and troubles of the poverty stricken working classes in Andalucía.
You can spot the various cultural influences in the performance:
Jewish & Muslim – hear the intonation of the rabbis and imams in the singing
Gypsy – Spanish Gypsy culture arrived from India via Egypt and it is thought that the hand movements of flamenco dance are related to Indian dance movements
African – the stamping of the feet evokes African traditional dance
How do you know if you’re seeing the best flamenco?
Sevilla is, today, considered to be one of best places in the world to see flamenco so the chances are high that any flamenco performance you see is going to be a good one but what should you look for when choosing where to book?
How to see flamenco in Seville
The genuine flamenco experience, the very best places, will be:
⭐️ full of passion – you may weep
⭐️ in a small and intimate setting, probably a courtyard (patio), small theatre, or a bar
⭐️ a truly unforgettable experience
⭐️ food & drink free during a performance – flamenco is a passionate performance during which you will be included in some extremely intimate and emotional moments. It is considered respectful to the masters of flamenco that you offer them your full attention*.
* This does not mean that the flamenco shows you’ll see offered to tourists that include dinner and drinks are bad, just that they are aimed at tourists, rather than local flamenco fans.
Flamenco in Sevilla: your options
So let’s look now at the various options for seeing flamenco in Sevilla
🔆 Seasonal note: some places will not be open during the summer months, if you’re not sure what will be open, you could call around or book a tour.
Free flamenco shows on the streets of Sevilla
💃🏻 You’re most likely to catch one on the gorgeous Plaza de España as there is a group who perform there most days. As you explore the city you may be lucky and come across people performing on street corners, smaller plazas or even in some restaurants. The picture above was taken outside the Alfonso XIII hotel.
💶 Of course, it’s customary to give a few euros if you’ve sat and watched a while.
Dedicated flamenco shows
It is easy to find daily shows in the heart of Sevilla throughout most of the year. The most popular neighbourhoods for flamenco venues are, Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter of Sevilla, El Arenal neighbourhood and Triana.
💰 Note that ticket prices vary depending on where you want to visit and whether you’re booking a tour or a show only.
📸 Some performances ban cameras entirely, others allow you to take photos during the last few minutes.
🎟 It’s always a good idea to book your tickets in advance wherever possible because shows regularly sell out.
🪑 Always try and sit as close to the stage as you can – you want to see the expression on the performers’ faces, to feel what they feel.
⏱ Flamenco performances generally last around 60 to 90 minutes.
Flamenco venues in Seville
You can choose from visiting a
Tablao – a dedicated flamenco venue, that replaced the ‘singing cafes’ of the early 20th century. Tablaos are so named for their wooden stages that so perfectly show off the sound of the dancers’ feet while protecting their joints. Generally fairly small and intimate.
Theatre – this really is a show in a theatre. The quality of the flamenco won’t differ from anywhere else but you can expect more theatrics, lights and perhaps even props. Larger audiences, less intimate shows and probably more comfortable seats.
Bar – flamenco bars are an excellent way to catch a show if you’re undecided about whether you want to spend a lot of money on a dedicated performance. You’ll have to buy a drink or 2 (obviously), the bars don’t necessarily have flamenco every night and they may not have dancers but the guitarists and singers will still knock your socks off.
Peña – a club where you’ll find true local flamenco aficionados. While locals pay for membership, there will generally be some seating available for visitors on the night too – you can’t generally pre-reserve.
Flamenco venues in Sevilla
Museo del Baile Flamenco (Flamenco Dance Museum)
Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos
The Flamenco Dance Museum was established by one of the biggest names in flamenco, Cristina Hoyos. Hoyos is the most decorated flamenco dancer and choreographer of all time. Here you’ll find a prestigious flamenco academy, a flamenco tablao/patio and also a museum. The patio offers an intimate audience fabulous views of the courtyard style stage from whence you’ll feel as if you’re a part of the experience. It’s not permitted to take photos here, but this staging is magnificent.
My first serious flamenco experience took place here when I was invited, by Devour Tours to join their tapas and flamenco tour. The audience sits in a beautifully designed, small courtyard (patio) around the stage. What I didn’t expect was for el duende to take hold of me as fiercely as it did. The moment the music began, I was transported back in time. I felt as if I was in a private home, hundreds of years ago, watching people use music and dance to express what they weren’t allowed to say. I could feel their pain as we sat under the fierce Andaluz sun beating down on the patio and they danced and sang. The pain of the music gripped me and I wanted it to never end. I wanted to understand more.
Casa de la Memoria
Calle Cuna, 6
Popular with both locals and tourists, the intimate Casa de la Memoria puts on a fabulous show that effortlessly blends music, singing and dance. This is one of the flamenco houses that is open all year long so it’s great if you’re visiting in the summer when some of the other patios are closed.
Peña Torres Macarena
Calle Torrijiano
Note: it isn’t open in the summer and performances are only on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday and you buy tickets on the door, there are no advance sales.
Located in the north of the city, outside of the casco antiguo, this is one of the locals’ favourite flamenco peñas. If you want to see flamenco here you’ll need to arrive as the doors open (8pm usually for a 9.30pm start) to ensure you get a ticket. Grab a free seat by dumping your jacket on it and then move to the crowded bar for a drink and tapas before the performance.
The first flamenco flamenco I saw here (pictured above) brought me to tears with the emotion it conveyed BUT it is a crowded, hectic place so you need to consider what type of flamenco experience you want. This is not where you go for comfort or to relax! My next experience here was not so wonderful, my friends and I actually left as we had no seats and were unable to see the stage from where we wound up standing.
If you visit a peña flamenca you won’t necessarily find the polished, dressy performances of the tablaos – a peña is more like an association, a group who come together for their own joy of flamenco and offers events to the public.
Teatro Flamenco Sevilla
Calle Cuna, 15
If you prefer a dedicated theatre environment in the heart of Seville’s old city, try the Teatro Flamenco. Check the website to ensure you get the show you desire. This is a great option for first time flamenco watchers – you’ll see a fantastic show with a lot of variety and style. I opted to take my parents here because it’s a comfortable experience with good chairs and more leg space than in some venues.
👧🏽 If you’re looking for a flamenco venue that allows small children, this is a good bet. I saw babies, toddlers and small kids here.
📸 Photography is permitted during the show but only without flash.
→ Book now
La Casa del Flamenco
Calle Ximénez de Enciso
Recently renovated, this is a beautiful, small setting with a highly regarded performance nightly. Every performance here will be different and totally individual as the extremely talented performers are left to decide what they’ll perform based on how they’re feeling. When I visited, we got a quietly subversive performance that made us smile and want to throw our fists up in the air.
I saw a mix of visitors and locals at this venue. I’d say it’s a good, accessible show for first timers and the seats are comfortable and everyone gets a good view here.
📸 Photos (without flash) are permitted only at the end of the performance.
Tablao Flamenco los Gallos
Plaza de Santa Cruz
This is one of the oldest flamenco venues in Seville and it is located right in the heart of the old city in a gorgeous renovated house. Its location makes it a favourite with visitors to the city.
There are 2 shows a night every night here. Drinks are available.
Tablao el Arenal
Calle Rodo
This is one of the smallest tablaos in the city. It offers 2 daily shows and it’s possible to order a meal or tapas to enjoy before the performance to really round out your experience.
Casa de la Guitarra
C. Mesón del Moro, 12
The Casa de la Guitarra is first and foremost a guitar museum where you’ll find guitar related items from the last 300 years. It was founded by José Luis Postigo, a famous flamenco guitarist. There is a twice daily flamenco show for up to 60 people hosted in this small and intimate theatre.
El Patio Sevillano
Av. de las Razas, 20
One of the oldest tablaos in Sevilla, this is a good option if you are looking for a show with dinner or a show with drinks. The location of this venue is a big bonus as it’s by the Triana bridge along the river.
Teatro Flamenco de Triana
Calle Pureza, 76
One of the best shows in the Triana district is found at this flamenco theatre where 3 daily shows are offered to guests. The theatre holds just 100 people.
El Palacio Andaluz
Calle Matemáticos Rey Pastor y Castro, 4
Located near the amusement park, Isla Magica, this venue offers visitors dinner and a show surrounded by the old Seville flamenco cafe ambiance. There is also a small museum dedicated to flamenco costumes.
Can children watch flamenco in Seville?
It really depends on your child and the venue. Some venues don’t allow small children, others do. You know your kid – if they can sit still and not disrupt a performance then you can try taking them but disrupting the show isn’t acceptable.
As I mentioned above, the Teatro de Flamenco allows small children in to watch performances.
🛝 There are plenty of excellent things to do with kids in Seville. In my opinion, only you can know if your child will enjoy a flamenco performance.
My kids, at 11 and 13, can sit still but the older one will only sit through a show under extreme duress and won’t necessarily remember to not fidget. The 11 yr old absolutely adores flamenco and will beg me to take them whenever there’s a chance to see a performance.
I was recently at a performance where a much smaller child was quiet but couldn’t sit still. Her mum ended up taking her out for most of the performance, and although the kid really wasn’t trouble, the mum was stressed, & we could see the dancers were aware of what was happening.
Want to learn flamenco?
Seville is the right place for this too! There are plenty of flamenco schools offering classes of varying lengths and experiences for people interested in dance and music.
