Over the past few years, Mexico’s Day of the Dead celebrations have become extremely popular so if you’re considering spending Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) in Oaxaca City then you’re going to need to plan your trip carefully because this has become one of the most popular places to take part in the Day of the Dead festivities. 

In this article we’ll take a look at exactly what Day of the Dead is, how it’s celebrated and how you, as a visitor to Oaxaca, can make the most out of your Day of the Dead Oaxaca experience. 

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What exactly is Day of the Dead?

Let’s begin with naming this festival: confusingly you’ll see Día de Muertos, Día de los Muertos and Day of the Dead used interchangeably in articles about the festival. They’re all right.

And if you’re reading about Day of the Dead across the whole of Mexico you may also come across the names Hanal Pixan/Janal Pixan when referring to the Yucatán Peninsula. This is the Mayan name for the festival.

⭐️ During this festival, Mexicans welcome their dead ancestors (los difuntos) home from the spirit world, enticing them with their favorite food, snacks, drinks all placed on beautifully adorned altars that are covered in bright orange/gold marigold flowers, called cempasuchil in Mexico.

Contrary to expectations, this is a joyful celebration that includes dancing, music, bright colours, family meals and street parties. It might look as if Day of the Dead is a celebration of death but really it’s a celebration of life. Death in Mexico is seen as part of the cycle of life.

When is Día de los Muertos celebrated?

🗓 Día de los Muertos is officially a three-day celebration over October 31st, November 1st and November 2nd. 

➡️ I recommend arriving at least a week before the festivities begin to soak up the atmosphere and explore the Oaxaca region.

📌 Prior to the Spanish invasion of Mexico, Día de Muertos was celebrated in the summer. The Spanish moved it to coincide with the European-Christian days of All Saints’ Eve, All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Days. This was part of the Spanish efforts to Christianise Mexico and blend Catholic traditions with the indigenous ones. 

Top Tip: Because this is such an important festival in Mexico, if you’re visiting in October you may well find cities, businesses, and families gearing up for the Day of the Dead festivities during the entire month. By late October the whole of Oaxaca will look like one giant Día de los Muertos party, which is why I recommend booking your Oaxaca accommodation as early as possible. 

Is Day of the Dead basically Mexican Halloween? 

❌ Dia de Muertos is not Mexican Halloween despite being celebrated at the same time and seemingly sharing some components. 

However, in some Mexican cities, including Oaxaca, you will see people dressing up in Halloween-style costumes and you may even see some trick-or-treat style candy being passed around.

Unlike Halloween, Día de los Muertos does not see the spirits as malevolent, rather they are seen as family members returning home. This is a beautiful part of Mexican culture.

➕ If you’re travelling to Oaxaca for Day of the Dead with children, I highly recommend you get the kids to watch the movie Coco before you arrive so they have some idea of what is going on. 

Day of the Dead traditions in Oaxaca

Let’s talk about what you’ll see going on around you when you visit Oaxaca for día de los muertos.

Day of the Dead Altars (Ofrendas)

These altars are built in the streets, in stores, cafes, in homes and eventually in the cemeteries. In Oaxaca you’ll see that the ofrendas tend to be colorful and multi-storey.

You will see photos of the difuntos (deceased loved ones) and around them the food and drink their family members think will be most likely to tempt them back. Of course, there will also be cempasuchil flowers. These flowers are so abundant at this time of year that the whole city smells of them!

Catrinas

Many of the Day of the Dead papier mache sculptures and the costumes you see on the street are based on La Calavera Catrina. La Calavera Catrina began life as an etching created by Jose Guadalupe Posada in the early twentieth century. The first etching was actually created as a satirical comment on the Mexican upper classes. It was only later that the figure became associated with Día de Muertos imagery. 

Tapetes de Arena (Sand tapestry art) 

More common in Guanajuato and Zaachila (which is handily just down the road, see below), it’s still possible to see sand art in the plazas of Oaxaca and nearby Xoxo. Like the mandala, these represent the impermanence of life. They are are made to honour and welcome spirits home.

Desfiles / Comparsas (Parades)

If you’re lucky you’ll get to take part in one of these colourful parades but even if you aren’t invited to march, just watching is great too. They go on throughout the day and night over the three days of Day of the Dead in Oaxaca. The photo above is of the school comparsa we were invited to join.

What to do in Oaxaca during Día de los Muertos

Enjoy yourself, enjoy the celebrations but remember that this isn’t a party just put on for tourists to enjoy (although it may feel that way sometimes). This is a real festival and for many, a chance to feel close to their loved ones. Visitors must always be respectful of this ancient tradition that we are lucky enough to witness.

⭐️ If you’re visiting Oaxaca with kids then you know that you’ll find plenty to do to entertain the whole family.

➡️ When it isn’t Day of the Dead time, you really need at least 3 days to see Oaxaca.

Before the official celebrations begin

You’re probably going to want to be in Oaxaca before the 31st October if you plan on making the most of your trip to this incredible part of Oaxaca. Quite apart from exploring the city and marvelling at the decorations going up you can:

Eat traditional Día de los Muertos foods

Pan de Muerto (Bread of the Dead)

This is one of the most famous day of the dead foods and its style and taste vary by region. In Oaxaca it tends to have sesame seeds and a picture of a face on it (to represent a departed soul). Unlike in other areas, this bread is not sweet so many enjoy it with a cup of traditional Mexican hot chocolate.

Tamales

Tamales (singular tamal) are a popular dish all year round in Mexico but it’s also an important part of Día de los Muertos. A tamal is a pre-hispanic food made from corn dough (masa) wrapped around a tasty filling. The whole thing is then wrapped in a banana leaf. You’ll be able to buy these from street vendors across the city.

Black Mole

Like tamales, mole (mol-é) is something of a national staple but it’s also considered to be an important part of the Day of the Dead cuisine in Oaxaca. There are 7 moles but it’s the black mole that especially linked to Día de los Muertos. The black comes from the combination of roasting chile peppers with Oaxacan chocolate. Note that no two moles are alike so it’s important to keep on trying them all! My first ever black mole was eaten in the market in Oaxaca – I’ll never forget it.

Calaveras de Azucar (Sugar Skulls)

Note that the smaller ones are ok to eat but the bigger ones are meant for decoration only. You’ll be able to pick them up in local markets.

Chapulines

Although these crickets are not strictly for Día de los Muertos but you can’t visit Oaxaca and not try them.

Visit the local markets

Don’t forget to wander through the local markets, try the amaranth grain skulls as well as the sugar skulls. You could also pick up some papel picado, that wonderful Mexican paper cut bunting. I have both traditional paper and some amazing crotched flags that I use on my altar every year.

In addition to the normal markets and small stalls, for which Oaxaca is rightly famous, plenty of little craft markets pop up around this time of year selling crafts from all around the country.

📍 Visit Mercado Benito Juarez for fresh food and souvenirs and the incredible enormous market just on the edge of the city, Central de Abasto – here you’ll even see truckloads of cempasuchil being delivered, which is pretty amazing.

In these markets you could also get your own Day of the Dead outfit for the parades and parties to come!

Take day trips from Oaxaca

If you’re planning on taking day trips while you’re in Oaxaca then of course you’ll need to figure out extra time in the city.

There’s plenty to do around Oaxaca. Generally the regular activity tours can be booked when you arrive in Oaxaca but it’s a better idea to book in advance especially when you’re visiting at such a popular time of year.

Special Day of the Dead Tours

Visit the Cultivos el Viejo – these are flower fields where the cempasuchil grow. People have taken to visiting to take photoshoots here. Note that the flowers are harvested around 28th October so you’ll need to visit before then.

🚗 it’s possible to visit alone if you have a car (45 minute drive from Oaxaca) or you could take a tour if you don’t have a car.

Catrina Exhibition in Mitla – do not miss out on visiting Mitla. Not only is this small town (full name San Pablo Vila de Mitla) home to one of the most important ruins in Oaxaca, but it’s also home to an exhibition of Catrinas and Skulls during the run up to Day of the Dead.

Zaachila Tapetes de Arena – while it is possible to find people making sand rugs in Oaxaca, this is aactually a tradition in Zaachila so if you’re interested, this is a good place to visit in the days before Día de los Muertos.

⭐️ MexicoCassie Recommended Oaxaca Day of the Dead Tours ⭐️

What to do on 31st October in Oaxaca

Spend your day wandering the streets of the centro historico, buy your souvenirs, check out the awesome ofrendas, calaveras and decorations you’ll see everywhere in town. Eat more pan de muerto and tamales.

Evening – visit a cemetery

Visit either Xoxo or the Panteón General de Oaxaca

Xoxo (full name Xoxocotlan) this has become very popular with tourists over the years and you’ll find throngs of people outside weaving their way through vendors selling beers, snacks and toys. It doesn’t add to the ambiance when you have to push through people but once you’re in the cemetery, it does calm down somewhat.

You’ll see families sitting around tombs or gravestones covered in candles. There will be food laid out on the graves and everyone will be chatting quietly as they await the return of their loved ones.

Oaxaca Cemetery – although many people will tell you this is the less interesting cemetery to visit, I actually disagree. It’s larger and there are fewer people, it’s true but this makes it less stressful to visit than Xoxo and there are still plenty of people and plenty of decorated graves to see.

Again, there is a party outside the cemetery that even includes a fairground!

⭐️ You can book a guide to take you through both of these cemeteries if you’re nervous about visiting alone.

Find the festivities in town

👻 If you’re still ready for fun after leaving the cemetery, you can head into centro to find the Magna Comparsa. This is Oaxaca’s primary Day of the Dead parade where everyone gets dressed up and follows a band around the city’s neighborhoods. In some areas you’ll find competitions, plays, dancing and more as the parade dances its way through the streets of Oaxaca.

📌 Top Tip: Head to the tourist information office by the cathedral for a schedule of Day of the Dead Oaxaca events and even a map of the comparsa routes.

If you don’t have the energy to follow a parade, you can simply go to the zocalo or the area around Templo de Santo Domingo (Santo Domingo Church) where during the day you’ll find markets, food stalls, musicians and street performers doing their thing. This is one of the best places to get involved in the Dia de los Muertos celebrations, day or night.

All around here there will be kids dressed in elaborate costumes, often pretending to murder their friends over and over in the hope that people will throw a few pesos their way! Adults also dress up, embracing the pantomime side of this festival and having a whale of a time. So put on your werewolf mask purchased from one of the many stalls, grab a beer and join the party!

What to do in Oaxaca on 1st November – Día de los Angelitos

This is the day when people remember children who have died so please, if you are visiting cemeteries on the 1st, be aware of the devastation some people will be feeling.

Why not head into the markets today or take a day trip out of the city.

Evening Adventures in Etla

If you’re looking for an evening Day of the Dead activity, today is a good day to visit Etla, a small town some 45 minutes north of Oaxaca for their Muerteada. In this comparsa (parade), every dresses in black costumes covered in small mirrors to scare away witches and guide the spirits home.

What to do in Oaxaca on 2nd November

By the 2nd of November, the party will still be going but people will be winding down by now so sleep in, relax and maybe book a meal at one of the many excellent restaurants in town – know though that hours may be shorter than usual so be sure to reserve.

Should you get your face painted for Day of the Dead?

If you want to you should. It isn’t considered cultural appropriation, in fact, Mexicans are generally extremely generous with their festivals and culture and as long as you’re respectful, they’re happy to share with you.

You’ll find plenty of people on the zocalo who will be offering their services – try to use a local rather than a tourist so that your money enters the Mexican economy.

*thanks to my friend Amanda for sharing this gorgeous photo of her family in Oaxaca

Oaxaca Day of the Dead Tour Recommendations

Day Trips from Oaxaca

➡️ Visit an archaeological site such as Monte Alban or Mitla.

➡️ Swim at the famous petrified waterfall, Hierve el Agua

➡️ Take a tour to visit the local weavers, alebrije makers, mezcal makers or potters 

➡️ Read more about all the day trip options from Oaxaca

If you have longer you could even

➡️ Go to the Sierra Nevada to explore the Pueblos Mancomunados 

➡️ Visit the Oaxaca coast  – there are direct flights to Huatulco from Oaxaca’s airport

➡️ Enjoy the special mushroom villages on the way to the coast.

Tips for celebrating Day of the Dead in Oaxaca

📌 It is a good idea to arrange your hotel and transport long as much in advance as possible to ensure you get a good place and aren’t stressed out by logistics as you gear up to see one of the best and most exciting day of the dead celebrations in Mexico.

📌 Be respectful of the festival and of people celebrating with their family (alive and dead).

📌 Oaxaca is suffering from a water shortage so be aware of this when you’re using water.

Where else is Día de los Muertos celebrated?

🧭 Mostly it is celebrated in the south and centre of Mexico. The biggest celebrations are found in Oaxaca and Patzcuaro although Mexico City, Mérida and Guanajuato are all excellent locations to visit over Día de los Muertos too. If you find yourself somewhere like Playa del Carmen or Cancun over day of the dead you’ll be able to find celebrations going on in big hotels, in theme parks such as Xcaret and downtown in both cities.