An Unusual Day Trip from Seville: Alcalá de Guadaíra (2024)

Published by Cassie on

white mill on bank of calm river. Early morning sun shining through trees behind

The Andalusian capital of Seville (Southern Spain) is an incredibly popular tourist destination and rightly so, it’s a gorgeous city that ticks all the tourist boxes. It offers fabulous options for exploring, learning, playing, eating, and drinking. But what about if you fancy taking an unusual and non-touristy day trip from Seville?

⭐️ Alcalá de Guadaíra is something of a hidden gem in Andalucía. It’s a perfect distance from Seville that visitors looking for something a little off the beaten path could easily spend a day here.

You’re probably considering day trips to the big name destinations such as

➡️ Córdoba to see the Mezquita and wander the narrow streets of the Jewish quarter

➡️ the Pueblos Blancos (white towns) of Cádiz and Malaga such as Mijas Pueblo

➡️ Ronda to marvel at the ancient bridges that span that span the jaw dropping El Tajo Gorge

but visitors really mustn’t ignore some of the smaller towns around Seville when exploring Andalucía. These smaller towns are utterly gorgeous and have most fascinating histories of their own.

In this article we’ll focus on Alcalá de Guadaíra and at the end of the article I will share a list of other magnificent small towns for you to explore.

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Alcalá de Guadaira is my town. We wound up living here by chance and we absolutely love it. Alcalá de Guadaíra is well known in Andalucia for its long and fascinating history, its bread-making fame and for the incredible parks that run the length of the town. Wouldn’t you just love some insider secrets, to have someone sit you down and let you in on the secret that is a super easy-access day trip from Seville?

Here we go… Alcalá de Guadaíra

Brief history of Alcalá de Guadaíra

📍 Alcalá de Guadaíra has been inhabited since prehistoric times and it is thought that important battles may have been fought here during Roman times. In the eighth century, the area was taken by the Moors who built the fortified castle that remains proudly guarding the town to this day. In 1244, Ferdinand III of Castile took Alcalá during the Christian conquest of the region. 

📍 Much of Alcalá’s history actually has to do with bread, in fact, the town is sometimes known as Alcalá de los Panaderos (Alcalá of the Bakers). Numerous flour mills were constructed along the banks of the Guadaíra River where wheat was ground by millers. Construction began during the Almohad period but continued under Christian rule when the mills belonged to religious orders. Alcalá was strategically very important to the region as it has supplied both bread and water to Seville over the course of history

📍 The original name for Alcalá de Guadaíra was Qalat Chabir, meaning, “the fortress [Alcalá] on the river that supplied provisions”. 

Did you know that Segovia, one of Spain’s prettiest towns is also named “Fortress”? It’s thought that Segovia meant fortress in an early local Celtic language.

Day Trip From Seville: What to See in Alcalá de Guadaíra

Alcalá de Guadaira Castle and Church of Santa María del Águila

✅ Begin your day trip from Seville with a trip to Alcalá’s castle, the third largest in Andalucía. Overlooking the Guadaíra River, this imposing Almohad construction dates from the early Medieval period. The castle walls have been restored and visitors are permitted to walk on them (note, there are no handrails) when exploring the castle. Some weekends there are guided tours of the castle but it’s perfectly possible to walk around alone. Once you’ve seen inside the castle itself don’t forget to check out around the walls outside the castle too.

Entrance to the castle is free and there is an Interpretation Centre next door

Also next door to the castle is the church of Santa María del Águila, the church to the patron saint of Alcalá de Guadaíra.

🚗 If you’re visiting by car you can park up by the castle otherwise it’s a steep-ish walk up the hill.

child walking through large circular gap in castle wall

Explore the Parks and Mills of Alcalá de Guadaíra

✅ If your idea of a perfect day trip from Seville involves nature and lots of walking then Alcalá de Guadaíra’s natural park situation will wow you for sure.

➡️ Parque Oromana, Parque de San Juan, Parque de la Retama, Parque San Francisco, Antiguo Vivero and Parque del Puente del Dragón all sit along the banks of the Guadaíra River, and contain not only the nine molinos but also numerous paths, hills, and forests just calling out to be explored. There is a sports centre, an amazing brand new children’s play area and much more besides. It is possible to walk from one end of town to the other without leaving the park except where the parks are intersected by road or bridge.

➡️ While none of the molinos are functioning mills any longer, they are beautiful buildings and walking along the banks of the river through the park is a delightful day out for everyone. You may well see locals fishing at the sides of the molinos as well as families relaxing in their shade. Walk between Molino La Aceña and Molino del Pelay Correa to see them all if you have a whole day to devote to this relaxing activity. At this Molino del Pelay Correa you can either turn around or cross the river and walk back on the other side of the river.

✅ These parks and the huge new playgrounds in Parque Oromana and on the Plaza Central are two of reasons Alcalá de Guadaíra is my top recommendation for a day trip for people visiting Seville with kids.

calm river, two mills on banks

Puente del Dragón

✅ This Gaudi-style figurative bridge is the only one of its kind in Europe so it’s worth seeing even if you only drive across it. The bridge has lovely parks (of course) on either side of it so it could be a very easy addition to your park walking day. The park under the bridge and the forest all around are popular spots for picnics and birthday parties. The walk here from Alcalá de Guadaíra is delightful as it passes through an orange orchard and an olive grove.

⭐️ I’m a huge fan of bridges and aqueducts. Did you know that there is a remaining section of the Roman aqueduct in Seville that transported water from Alcalá de Guadaíra to the people of Seville? If you’re interested in Roman ruins, aqueducts and bridges then have you been to Mérida?

large, mosaic dragon head with open mouth, purple spikes and yellow eye

⭐️ There are a myriad of excellent reasons to visit Spain, keep reading to learn more about this magnificent country ⭐️

Hermitage of San Roque

✅ This church was built probably in the 16th century and was restored sometime in the 19th century. It can be visited for mass on a Sunday or, given its location high up on a hill in the park overlooking the town, its easily admired from afar. 

Museo de Alcalá

✅ Located on the gorgeous Parque Central Urbano, the small museum is home to revolving exhibitions about Alcalá. One exhibit is the fossil of a whale that was found in Alcalá. It’s thought to be over six million years old. 

Note that if you’re visiting with children, the playground on this plaza has just been renovated and it’s really a wonderful place for kids to play.

gentle early dusk light over museum building on a plaza. one large palm tree.

Harinera del Guadaira (Flour Factory)

✅ This old flour factory has been refurbished and is now a museum dedicated to the town’s illustrious flour and bread history. It is also home to Alcala’s tourist information office. The staff are extremely friendly and helpful and with advance warning tell me that they would be happy to give tours in English or French as well as Spanish. The museum is beautifully presented and there are even two short and interesting video presentations to watch via Oculus headsets, which is a great touch.

wooden machinery in an old restored factory

El Molino de la Mina

view of water in a cave

✅ The medieval mill located under the Teatro Gutiérrez de Alba at the intersection of Calle de la Mina and Calle Juan Abad was opened to the public a the very end of 2023. While the exhibition is small, it’s well worth checking out.

This is the only molino hipgeo in all of Spain and one of very few in the whole of Europe (there is another in Switzerland, apparently). A molino hipgeo (hypogean mill) is a subterranean water mill. The city of Alcalá de Guadaíra sits at the lowest point of the Alcores aquifer, which means there are a number of sweet water springs around the city (hence the Roman aqueduct that moved water from Alcalá to Sevilla).

The mill was built some time during the 14th or 15th centuries and was in use until the 1920s when the theatre above was built.

Convento de Santa Clara

✅ This is somewhere I haven’t visited yet but will do soon: It’s a convent selling nuns’ homemade candies, something of a tradition across Andalucía.

Try the Bread in Alcalá de Guadaíra

✅ If you take a day trip from Seville to visit a bread town you must try the bread, right? Why wouldn’t you? There is an official association of eleven bread bakers (Associación de Panaderos de Alcalá de Guadaíra) – you can see their sign in selected bakeries in town. Alcala’s bread comes in various shapes and sizes, many of which are not found outside of Alcalá. When I asked about this I was told that it’s really all about the texture rather than differing tastes.

logo reading "Pan de Alcalá, sano y natural"

Visit the 1st Postrería in Andalucía: La Cueva de la Zarzamora

What’s a postrería? Good question: it’s a restaurant that to only sells desserts. Sounds amazing, right? Well, it is. It opened in 1851, converting a large cave and alley surrounding it into a restaurant. It has remained in the same family since its opening and today is the pride of the town.

🥮 This postreria isn’t open every day (closed Mon, Tues, Wed) so be sure to check Google before planning your visit. Know that it isn’t possible to reserve, you have to show up, put your name on a list and then wait outside with everyone else clamouring for their cave-dessert experience. We went on a Saturday and only had to wait 10 minutes or so.

🥮 Not everyone gets to eat in the cave but don’t worry, the whole place is a joyous exploration of historical artefacts and personality (we ate in a small room decorated like a bedroom) and you’re perfectly free to explore the whole place.

What to order: The cocktails are a delight as they come laden with goodies, the coffee is excellent. Kids will love “Mala Suerte” (Bad Luck), an upturned ice cream on a bed of cookie crumbs. The torrijas (typical bread pudding) was astounding and everything else we tried was great too.

dessert beautifully displayed, old tv and coffee cup behind
view through an internal window - table with coffee cup before window, small balcony and people at table just visible on level above through window

Suggested Walking Route Through Alcalá

🎒 Start at the museum on the Parque Central Urbano. When you’re done inside, take a moment to check out the Casa de la Cultura on the other side of the park then walk across Plaza el Barrero towards La Plazuela. Check out the Molino de la Mina exhibition. Stop at La Cueva de la Zarzamora or Pastelería La Centenaria for a coffee and local pastry on Ntra Sra del Águila (also known as Calle de la Mina). From here you can either then walk via Plaza el Duque up to the castle or head into the park depending on what you’re planning on doing next. Enjoy those traditional narrow streets of the old Spanish small towns.

ornately decorated water fountain in middle of square

Other Notable Points of Interest Around Alcalá de Guadaíra

Palacio de Gandul – a 17th-century manor house on the outskirts of town as you head towards Osuna. This is not open to the public but it’s interesting to see as you drive by.  – Nov 2023 update: there are cultural events being held here that the public can attend.

Necropolis Dolmenica de Gandul – sadly also not open as this sits within a military site (despite what some websites claim). This necropolis contains examples of tombs and settlements from some five thousand years ago and is apparently one of the most important archaeological sites in western Europe. If only we could visit it. 

Castillo de Marchenilla – this 14th-century castle situated just five kilometres from Alcalá. It can be reached via a lovely walk along field paths. This castle is a private home but it can be visited if you make a booking in advance via email (visitacastillodeemarchenilla@gmail.com).

Day Trips from Seville: Where to Eat, Drink, and Stay in Alcalá de Guadaíra

Best Restaurants: For a small town, Alcalá has some wonderful restaurants. My favourites are Gastrogon and Vinacoteca Ssentidos for sit-down meals. Just in front of the Puente del Tren on Plaza el Perejil is a terrace restaurant that gets great reviews but I’ve not yet managed to get a table there.

Best Bar: This is a tricky question because most bars on most plazas are perfectly lovely. However, if you’re looking for a cool place to hang out, Buvac is my favourite option. It has live music and a great selection of drinks. I very much enjoy sitting outside New Central Park Cafe on Parque Central Urbano or in any bar on the Plazuela with a cafe solo or a small beer (caña).

Where to Stay: Hotel Oromana is the primary hotel in Alcalá. It is beautifully situated up on a hill in Parque Oromana, the rooms are well-appointed and the pool is lovely. If you don’t want to stay in Alcalá then obviously Seville has some gorgeous boutique hotels.

How to get to Alcalá de Guadaíra for your Day Trip from Seville

Alcalá de Guadaíra is not served by the Sevilla metro, which is frustrating for residents but does help to keep the town somewhat peaceful.

It is an easy 20-30 minute drive from Seville and there are public buses running between Seville and Alcalá de Guadaira. It’s also only twenty minutes from Seville’s airport. In fact, many people like to stop here for a last minute lunch or walk on their way to the airport.

If you’re coming by car it’s best to park on the edge of town, on either side of the Puente del Tren de Los Panaderos (neither side is marked on the map but there are spaces for parking). You can also park by the castle if that’s your destination.

Other small towns in Andalucía to consider visiting

➡️ Aracena – popular with locals for day trips from Seville, Aracena is famous for the Grutas de Maravilla, an enormous cave system under the beautiful castle. In the winter this area is also known for its great mushrooming.

➡️ Gibraltar – a fascinating slice of the UK on the edge of Spain. Visit for great food, incredible views and a whole lot of activities on the top of the magnificent Rock of Gibraltar.

➡️ Antequera – best known for its ancient dolmens and proximity to the fabulous mountain range, El Torcal.

➡️ Huelva -a delightful small town near the border with Portugal with plenty to entertain, particularly for those with a thing for Christopher Columbus.

➡️ Almonaster La Real – hidden up in the north of Huelva Province, this is a true hidden gem in the region. The tiny mezquita up on the hill overlooking the village will take your breath away.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to visit Alcalá de Guadaíra? If you’re already in Seville then any time is a good time to visit Alcalá. The weather is similar to that of Seville although it can be slightly cooler due to its slight elevation.

When is Fería in Alcalá de Guadaíra? In 2024, Fería will begin on the 31 May.

How many people live in Alcalá de Guadaíra? Around 75,000 people live in the town so although it feels very small it actually has a pretty big population for an Andalucian town.

Is there a cafe in the park? There is a lovely small cafe along the bank of the river near the sports centre.

Can dogs run off-leash in the park? No. There are many signs reminding people to keep their dogs on the lead.

Let me know if you choose to visit Alcalá de Guadaíra. I’m certain it’s going to be the best day trip for you.

Other fabulous day trips from Seville

One of the fabulous things about Seville is its location. It is so easy to explore much of the region as day trips from Seville.

⭐️ Malaga Province

➡️ Check out Malaga city, the surprisingly cultural city that is also the birthplace of Picasso

➡️ Explore Antequera and its magnificent Torcal

➡️ Visit Ronda and see the amazing Tajo Gorge

⭐️ Cádiz Province

➡️ Head to Cádiz, one of the oldest cities in Spain

➡️ Explore Jerez and the pueblos blancos of Cádiz

➡️ Enjoy the beach towns including gorgeous Tarifa (from where you can take a trip to Morocco and where the Mediterranean and Atlantic meet)

➡️ Take a day trip to Gibraltar, the weird slice of England on the edge of Spain

⭐️ Huelva Province

➡️ Enjoy Huelva City with its wonderful museum and great iron muelle

➡️ Explore the mountain towns of Aracena and Almonaster la Real

➡️ Marvel at the weird red river and castle in Niebla

➡️ Spend the day romping on the gorgeous beaches of Huelva and check out the fascinatingly weird pilgrimage town of El Rocío

⭐️ Other

➡️ Explore the gorgeous old city of Córdoba, home to more UNESCO World Heritage Sites than any other town in Spain.

➡️ Visit the beautiful small town of Carmona

Categories: Spain

Cassie

Cassie is a British-born travel writer who lives in southern Spain. Prior to moving to Spain, Cassie and her family lived in Yucatán, Mexico for many years. Something of a self-confessed-all-round travel-nerd, Cassie has a deep love of adventure, and of learning as much as possible about every place visited. This blog is testament to that.

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