Your Expert Guide to San Cristobal de las Casas with kids

Published by Jo on

an almost empty pedestrianised street - colourful houses on either side and typical spanish pennants flying

San Cristóbal de las Casas is undeniably one of the prettiest cities in the world, but is the cultural capital of Chiapas, with its small town vibe and misty peaks, particularly kid friendly?

Surrounded by lush green mountains, pine forests and indigenous communities, the pastel-coloured houses and colonial architecture make San Cris, as locals call it, feel picturesque and romantic. Honestly though, kids aren’t that interested in romance or Instagram-worthy photo ops… they want fun things to do and to be able to get about the city easily so let’s take a look now at how to best explore San Cristobal de las Casas with kids in tow.

I’ve lived in Mexico for nearly eight years, almost six of them in San Cris, and I have 2 small kids. I love San Cristóbal de las Casas (pronounced Cris-TOH-bal, with a leaning emphasis on the ‘o’ from the accent) and still find my breath taken away by its beauty and uniqueness. It can be challenging to keep children entertained and happy here though, so let me share some insider secrets with you…

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Where to stay in San Cristobal de las Casas with kids

There are hundreds of hotels in San Cristobal de las Casas and many of them are really gorgeous. The link here will take you to a map of excellent hotels in the city or you can check out my two highly recommended family friendly hotels in San Cristóbal de las Casas.

Hotel Casa de Gandhi – this is one of the most fun hotels I’ve ever stayed in and the owners are friendly and welcoming. Kids will love sleeping in their own little attic rooms and the courtyard is like a cool museum.

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Hotel Casavieja – centrally located hotel with family rooms, interconnected, a gorgeous courtyard and 2 restaurants on site that cater to everyone’s needs (including kid friendly menus)

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What to do in San Cristóbal de las Casas with kids

whole photo is covered with colourful pompoms on strings. "Te Amo Sancris" written in pink across the page

There’s so much going on in San Cris and you’re probably going to want to do as much as you can while still entertaining the kids. Let’s take a look at just how you can do that:

San Cristóbal de las Casas – the main sites

⭐️ If your kids are old enough, there are some great free walking tour options to help you get your bearings.

Centro, Zócalo & Plaza de la Paz

1 storey building painted white with red base, green red and white pennants flying, their shadows on the ground

On arriving to San Cristóbal de las Casas (SCLC) you are likely to find yourself in the pretty town square, or zócalo as it is known locally. On the zócalo you’ll find palm trees, benches and a bandstand where you can sit around in coffee shops merrily sampling the Chiapaneco coffee and rich cacao while the kids run around safely.

Next to the zócalo is Plaza de la Paz, the main plaza that boasts a distinctive cathedral and has a huge cross in the middle, a popular meeting point for people looking for each other in the midst of foreign tourists and vendors.

Personally, I often head here to get money from one of the many cash machines surrounding the square and then let my kids run around amongst the pigeons.

The night market is held in this square where you can buy cosy knitwear, balloons-with-lights-in and other crazy stuff the kids will adore, as well as the delicious street-food snack, esquites (corn in a cup).

Andador

an almost empty pedestrianised street  - colourful houses on either side and typical spanish pennants flying

The Andador is a pedestrianised street that runs from zócalo up towards the dramatic Iglesia de Guadalupe. It’s an easy place to explore with kids thanks to the lack of cars and if you have a kid in a stroller you’ll be extremely grateful for the smooth path here.

The andador can get busy during peak season and peak times of day so keep a hold of kids when it gets this way.

There are plenty of outdoor cafes, benches and steps to sit on to eat a slice of pizza or an empanada whilst taking it all in. People-watching on the Andador is fun, as a real mix of folks, all speaking different languages, stroll contentedly by: Mexico City trendies, European hippies, fanny-packed Americans, bronzed young traveller families.

Note that along here you will also come across the striking Tzotzil and Tzeltal local women from the surrounding indigenous communities, with their embroidered blouses and long black furry skirts, breastfeeding their children and flashing you with textiles and amber to buy. 

Guadalupe church

(Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe)

view down a large set of steps, red, green and white pennants flying, mountain in background

At the eastern end of the Andador, the Guadalupe church sits atop a hill and is a great place for the kids to burn off energy climbing the steps and running on the terraces. You can stick your head inside the church if you’re interested. The views from the steps over San Cris are stunning, particularly at sunset but let’s not pretend that we’re not all grateful for stairs that tire out the little ones.

Top tip from a local: Nip into La Charcu for incredible panoramic views of Huitapec mountain and snacks. My kids love the fried potato flautas in green sauce and the naranjada (natural fizzy orange drink), and I love a chelada (beer over ice with lemon and salt) and a vegan taco.

Iglesia de San Cristóbalito

boy in blue hoodie looking up at steep white steps. fountain against wall in front of him, church at top of steps

At the other end of the city, near the Mercado de Dulces, is another church with a great set of steps for kids to enjoy. Once you get up to the church there is a nice enough area at the back with good views and a chance to explore the small forest there.

Artisan Markets

Mercado de San Cristóbal

market stall full of brightly coloured souvenirs

Near the bottom of the Andador, just to the north, are the colourful artisan markets that surround the wildly fascinating baroque facade of the Templo de Santo Domingo (church), where you can find leather goods, jewellery, toys, rugs, shawls and much more. You could spend hours, even days exploring these markets with your kids, no matter how old / young they are.

Top Tip from a local: you can haggle, but always be friendly. The people working in these markets don’t generally overcharge and they’re always ready to chat.

➕ There is good museum next to this market: Centro de Textiles del Mundo Maya – older kids may be interested to visit.

Mercado de Dulces

This is a smaller market that specialises in baked goods, local clothing and more but there are often many bees buzzing around the entrance so beware when you visit with little ones.

Take a chocolate making class

adult in blue apron and child in grey tshirt. Adult is helping child to spread melted chocolate on a marble tray

For the slightly older kids you could book a chocolate making class with Jangala – MexicoCassie took her kids when they were 6 and 8 and they had a great time eating learning about chocolate.

Even if you don’t want to take a class, don’t miss out on the excellent handmade artisan chocolates made on site here.

Street Art

four children in height order walking in front of a mural of modern looking bulls

Keep your eyes peeled for all the excellent street art as you wander the beautiful streets of San Cristobal de las Casas.

Kid-focused activities

Sitting in a bar on the Andador at night sipping mezcal or pox (an alcoholic drink made from corn, sugar cane and wheat) and soaking up the vibe, is easier with tweens (or, let’s face it, no kids at all), but young kids can get restless easily, so finding a good balance of tourist activities and kid-friendly places that don’t involve too much walking, is a must.

In this section I share super local secrets with you: these are the places the locals take their kids.

The Convivencia and Sensory Ludoteca

Located next to each other, in front of Walmart on the Pereferico Sur, these two places are great if you want to do some purely kid-focused activities (and, of course, then pick up any international groceries you might need).

The Convivencia

This is the only real kids playground/park in San Cristóbal. It has proper swings, slides and climbing frames. There are picnic tables and trees for shade and a football pitch sized scrub of grass. 

The Sensory Ludoteca

This is a well thought out space that encourages creativity, imagination and play. Different sections and materials are themed and geared towards stimulating interest and honing skill, helping kids socialize, create and think. I LOVE it, and there is fast internet and supervisors if you want to stand back while your kids dive in.

Gymnastics drop-in

It is difficult to find drop-in classes in San Cris, but the 1 hour gymnastics classes at Gimalpy (Monday and Wednesday, 4-5pm) are worth the taxi ride to a gym outside of the centre (close to Soriana). The teacher, David is absolutely brilliant and will entertain your kids whether they speak Spanish or not – it doesn’t seem to matter, as he speaks the language of children.

Here the kids will jump, run, balance and laugh their heads off as David, brimming with energy and fun, guides them safely through different activities, using proper equipment and plenty of encouragement.

➕ Social Media to find out about workshops and offerings

There are lots of workshops and pop-up classes for families and kids (age orientated) but it can be really hard to find out about them. There are bulletin boards, but most people rely on Facebook groups (Mamás y Papás San Cristobal de las Casas, or San Cristóbal International Community) to advertise and discover what‘s going down in the town.

Relaxing in San Cristobal de las Casas with kids

beer with ice in it on a wall - view over town and mountains

Ok, this has been a lot about the kids and what they’ll enjoy but what about you? In this section I’m letting you in on yet more local knowledge – the best places to hang out and have a beer while the kids are happy:

Naufragio

This amazing artisanal brewery serves a great variety of delicious beers, excellent pizzas and other bar food like hot dogs and chunky wedges. And, unlike a lot of other places in the city, it’s FAST.

Naufragio has a bar, a couple of terraces, and a garden area, but the door that you enter through stays closed, so kids can run around and you can relax knowing that they are safe. The mix of locals and tourists will not be annoyed by kids playing and shouting, and the owners even sometimes get out a box of toys and provide a wall and some chalks for small people to draw on.

Live music starts at 8pm: I’ve shared some lovely moments with my girls having a dance early doors, before we roll on home.

Naufragio is only open Thursday, Friday and Saturday and is kind of hidden with a door in a wall without any large sign outside – it makes you feel like you are discovering something only locals know about.

Sweetbeat Café

The courtyard of Sweetbeat is light and leafy and has a mix of big and small tables with sun shades and comfy chairs. There is a covered area with LOADS of kids toys, games and books. Super chilled Leila bakes everything in-house and likes to provide healthy kid-friendly options, so expect to find sugar-free cookies or gluten-free cake.

Sweetbeat is comforting and safe with good internet (Leila has some kick-ass playlists too) and really is one of the best places to relax with kids. It is like a home away from home.

Santé Café

A small restaurant/bar selling tacos, bagels, coffee and alcohol, complete with padded play centre, and nannies to keep an eye on the babes while you….don’t. My kids love this place, and although I don’t think the food is amazing, the coffee and beer is fine, and it is nice to take a breather from shopping so they can play and I can sit and catch my breath.    

Corazon de Cacao

This snazzy little restaurant has really good pizzas and wine, as well as fancy milkshakes and creamy naughty extravagant puddings. It looks super trendy as it is all white with pink accents, including a 10ft flamingo on the wall, pink neon signs and an all-pink ballpool.

* Expect trendies trying to take sultry selfies beneath said flamingo whilst your children do their very best to ruin the mood by spilling milkshakes and launching pink balls in all directions.  

Exploring outside San Cristobal de las Casas

One of the great things about San Cristobal de las Casas is the access to the incredible nature and activities in Chiapas. There are plenty of options for day trips from San Cristobal that will work with kids, below I’ve shared some of the very best – both nearby and further afield.

MexicoCassie has taken her kids road-tripping around Chiapas a couple of times and her whole family adore how outdoorsy the state is.

If you plan on exploring outside of San Cristobal de las Casas with kids, you have a few options:

🚗 rent a car – this is by far the easiest option → check rental options

🚌 use public transport – usually colectivos (mini-vans) or bigger buses if you’re travelling long distance

👣 tours – there are plenty of tours available to the bigger name destinations

Nearby nature spaces

El Arcotete

kid in turquoise jacket sitting on horizontal tree branch in forest

If you want to let your kids run around in nature and roll about in pine needles, take a day trip to Arcotete (it’s just 4km outside of town but it really feels as if you’re in the middle of nowhere). This is the perfect place to burn off some steam climbing and exploring, as well as being the best way to feel like you are getting out of the city without having to go far.

With a suspension bridge, really fun zip lines, some giant swings and rope swings, limestone caves to explore, millions of trees to climb, a river with amazing boulders to climb, you could totally pass a whole day here. I always take a picnic, but you can find more traditional food and snacks near the entrance to the park.

☔️ If you go during rainy season, make sure you head there first thing in the morning because rains are likely after 1pm.

Note: there is a minimal charge to enter the park and some of the bigger activities may cost a few pesos each too.

How to get to Arcotete: take a colectivo from near the Templo de Guadalupe (they’ll have Arcotete written on the front)

Huitepec Ecological Reserve (Reserva Huitepec)  

Please, if you’re going to do this walk, be sure to find the right spot. Google Maps took us to entirely the wrong place to begin with – the entrance is along the road to Chamula. Pay a minimal fee to enter and then walk through the forest.

You can climb trees, spot mushrooms and marvel at the views. 

➕ El Encuentro Parque Natural

Another beautiful and wild space where you and the kids can roam and explore in the forest and along the river just outside San Cristobal de las Casas.

Orquideas Moxviquil

child walking on path in forest

A botanical garden full of orchids might not strike you as the best-best place to take children of any age but I assure you, it’s a wonderful choice. MexicoCassie took her kids and they had a great time exploring the orchid gardens and then taking a walking-tour of the hills and forest behind the garden where there are caves to explore and incredible trees to learn about.

➕ Reserva de Colibri – Hummingbird Reserve

We haven’t visited here yet but it looks like a fabulous place to visit to learn about hummingbirds.

Day trips from San Cristobal de las Casas with kids

Most of the day trips from San Cristobal de las Casas are suitable for kids as well as people travelling without kids. Let’s look at how to make the most popular day trips super kid friendly and accessible so everyone has a good time.

Sumidero Canyon (Cañon de Sumidero)

adult and child hugging in front of view of canyon

If you fancy a boat ride through one of the “wonders of Central America”, you’ll need to head to the beautiful pueblo magico of Chiapa de Corzo, which is where the boats leave from.

Younger kids might not particularly enjoy this ride as it can be long but the older ones will be wowed as the boat zooms through the water surrounded by spectacular scenery.

There are also fabulous miradors (look out points) you can visit.

⭐️ This trip includes transport to and from Chiapa de Corzo, boat ride through the magnificent Cañon de Sumidero, 2 stops at miradors to marvel at the views and time to explore the small pueblo magico of Chiapa de Corzo

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San Juan Chamula

looking up at a church. White building, green tiles around door and altar above door. wooden door. Christmas tinsel in tree shape hanging over building

This is a small autonomous town about thirty minutes from San Cristobal and is an absolute must to visit. It’s an indigenous village that people visit specifically for the church and while you might not think the kids will care about the church it’s actually very interesting for slightly bigger kids as there are no chairs anywhere, the ground is covered in straw and people are lighting small fires around the church – a very different take on Christianity to the one most are used to.

⭐️ Tour San Juan Chamula and nearby Zincanatan and learn about indigenous customs and life from someone who grew up in the culture. Visit the famous Chamula church, the cemetery and textile factory. Tour can be adapted to the needs and interests of the group.

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Waterfalls

waterfall, cloud day, very blue water

Chiapas is known for its incredible waterfalls but not all of them are easily reached from San Cristobal de las Casas. Let’s take a look at those that are.

Cascada El Chorreadero

child sitting in water at a small waterfall

Around 10km from Chiapa de Corzo is this small waterfall park where you can while away a few hours paddling, jumping and even climbing up inside a cave where the waterfall begins (that was really fun). It’s a perfect sized waterfall and wild-pool area for little kids.

El Chiflon

waterfall with silhouette of tree in front

2.5 hrs from San Cristobal is El Chiflon. Here you’ll find 5 waterfalls, bathing pools and forest paths that are just perfect for letting the kids run, play and explore. The main waterfall drops an astounding 120 m.

Note that there are two entrances to Chiflon. Both cost the same but they’re run by different villages and allow you slightly different views of the river and the falls.

💦 Most people climb only as high as the view point for the impressive Cascada Velo de Novia but it’s psosible to go higher to Cascada Quinceañera (you know Cassie did).

💦 You can zipline back down to the starting point (MexicoCassie’s daughter and husband did) and this is where people recommend swimming although when Cassie was there the water was busy with little black bugs.

There are even cabins for rent should you wish to spend the night here.

⭐️ Tours to El Chiflon seem to include time at the Lagos de Montebello too. These are incredibly beautiful lakes but this makes the day quite long so I only recommend these tours if your kids are old enough to manage full day tours.

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Palenque ruins

Palenque stepped pyramid taken from within the grass

​Palenque is an incredible jungle ruin approximately 5 hour drive from San Cristobal de las Casas. If your kids can cope with the trip then it’s well worth taking them to explore this amazing place. Although it’s extremely hot there’s plenty to keep them interested – from the artisan stalls to the less visited “hidden in the jungle” section of Palenque, they’ll have a blast.

⛔️ There can be serious safety issues along the quicker road (5 hrs) between Palenque and San Cristobal so it’s worth checking with locals before deciding if you’re going to take a trip there. ADO buses no longer take this route. Tour groups take the longer, safer road.

⭐️ Although it’s a long day, Palenque is a great day trip for the kids. A tour that ties in visiting the waterfalls of Misol-Ha and Agua Azul breaks up the day and allows a chance to relax and play

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Finally… things to watch out for whilst you are in San Cristóbal de las Casas with kids

We love San Cristobal de las Casas and think it’s a great place for kids but it isn’t perfect. Let’s take a look, now at some of its issues when visiting with kids:

Dodgy pavements (sidewalks)

Many of the streets in San Cris are not easy for pedestrians, especially not kids on foot or parents manoeuvring a stroller. The pavements are often narrow with high curbs and frequent ramps for cars. Watch out for huge gaping holes, crumbling edges, randomly placed metal poles and street vendors on corners, forcing you to step into the road to get around them. Having a child on each side of you can be tricky, and pushing a buggy near impossible (I tended to walk on the road with my pushchair): the best option by far is to use a baby carrier if you’re coming to San Cris with a baby.

Dog poo

This city has been known to be referred to as “San Cristóbal de las Cacas”. There are a large number of street dogs leading to an unfortunate amount of poo on the streets. Keep yourselves on the alert and get your child to spot it too – we make it into a game where whoever spots the most piles throughout our day gets an extra treat after dinner. It’s a good idea to carry hand gel and tissues!

Contaminated water

The tap water in San Cris is some of the most contaminated in Mexico, so use bottled water for drinking and teeth brushing, and don’t let your kids open their mouths in the shower.

There are many fields of fresh food being grown around the city but the water used is contaminated. All fresh fruit and vegetables need to be soaked in iodine for a minimum 15 minutes and choose the places you eat out wisely. Make sure children wash their hands properly with soap.


Jo

Jo has lived in San Cristóbal for many years. Landing here 7.5 months pregnant and desperate to escape the heat of the jungle, she has now given birth twice at home, and is happily raising her 2 daughters San Cris style, in the fresh air of the mountains.

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