Your expert guide to planning an epic Southern Mexico road trip
When most people think about road tripping in Mexico they will consider driving around Yucatán, Oaxaca or around San Miguel de Allende. But what if I told you there were other great options, that you could start in Mérida, that super popular city and then get away from the crowds and get deep into a different kind of Mexico? You’d be intrigued, right? Well then, friends, read on for this is what I’m offering you right now!
In this article I will share one of my all time most favourite road trips around Mexico. It takes in archaeological sites, dolphins, thermal rivers, waterfalls, jungle adventures and pueblos magicos. Sounds amazing, right?
That’s because it is.
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Basic route outline
This road trip covers the states of Yucatán, Campeche, Tabasco & Chiapas. We took 14 days to explore the route but you could go slower and add more stops, if you wanted to do so.
🚘 Mérida – Isla Aguada – Tapijulapa – Palenque – Campeche – Mérida
Getting around
If you’re going to take a road trip then it makes sense that you need a car, right?
🚌 If you wanted to do this trip with public transport, you could probably just about do it if you were willing to take it reaaaaaal slow and not get stressed.
🚆 The Mayan Train can take you some of the route and there are buses and minibuses that cover an extensive amount of the region.
🚘 However, a road trip is a road trip and I definitely recommend doing it in a car. A car offers freedom to get to out of the way places, it gives the freedom to stop where you like, to detour & super importantly, to take as much stuff as you need with you without repacking nicely every single time you move.
Driving in this region of Mexico is safe and really very enjoyable as there aren’t generally too many other cars on the road, the views are a delight and there are often people selling delicious snacks as you approach junctions & villages.
Stay safe by not driving at night, being aware of topes (speed bumps) & potholes and always obeying the law. No one is going to be stopping you for specious reasons in this part of Mexico.
→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to driving around Yucatán (it works for Campeche, Tabasco & Chiapas too)
🚘 Check out car rental prices & options with my favourite car rental company, Discover Cars
Booking accommodation along the route
I absolutely recommend booking your accommodation in advance. While some of the places I’m going to send you (if you follow this plan) aren’t well known to tourists (national or international), this means fewer choices. I wouldn’t leave accommodation to chance in this area.
🏨 I’ll offer recommended hotels/accommodation based on my experiences & research for every stop. I always use booking.com for my own hotel reservations.
So, we’ve got our car, let’s get going!
Epic southern Mexico road trip route
Day 1: Mérida to Isla Aguada (Campeche)
🗺️ 344km ⏱️ 4 hr
Break up the drive/make the day more exciting
IchHa-Lool Xaan – this is where we chose to stop (photo above), at this nature reserve we love just outside Campeche city. We packed a picnic and spent a lovely hour enjoying a walk in the jungle and a paddle in the water before jumping back in the car.
Becal – the small village in Campeche from whence jipi hats come → Read the full MexicoCassie guide to Becal
Pomuch – the small Campeche village with a fascinating cemetery, and strong Día de los Muertos traditions
Campeche city – if you’ve set out early from Mérida there’s no reason not to stop off in Campeche on the way. There are some excellent restaurants here → Read the full MexicoCassie guide to Campeche
Champoton – a small town with a reputation for having excellent fish restaurants
Edzna – one of the glorious archaeological sites in Campeche, it’s a little out of the way but if ruins are your thing, it could make a good addition to your day → Read the full MexicoCassie guide to the archaeological sites in Campeche
Ruta Puuc – You could also add on side trip to the Ruta Puuc in southern Yucatán →Read the MexicoCassie guide to the Ruta Puuc archeological sites in southern Yucatán
Where to stay in Isla Aguada
🏨 MexicoCassie recommended hotel: Cabañas Laguna – this is a delight of a hotel with a good pool, comfortable rooms (with AC) and a nice breakfast.
🏨 MexicoCassie recommended hotel: Hotel Isla – quirky holiday houses (all with AC) around a pool, good restaurant on site.
Days 2 – 3 Isla Aguada
What to do in Isla Aguada
Isla Aguada is a small pueblo magico at one end of a thin spit of land with a laguna on one side and the Gulf of Mexico on the other.
🐬 Take a dolphin tour
Dolphins live in the laguna all year round. You can take a tour to see them. It’s so fun that after we took the tour I’d booked for the morning, we booked a private boat to take us out again in the afternoon because the kids were so excited to see so many dolphins so close to our tiny boat.
Most of the group tours include a stop at Isla las Comadres where you can swim, meander around or just chill out for a while. You may also get to ‘cross’ the bridge and leave the laguna for the Gulf of Mexico (we did because I made friends with our captain).
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ My kids proclaimed this a 5⭐️ trip and that they need to return when they have their own kids. I’d agree it’s a 5⭐️ day adventure.
→We used Marbella Tours and we highly recommend them. You can book via Facebook or their family restaurant, Yahani on the waterfront in Isla Aguada.
What else to do in Isla Aguada
🦎 There’s a small museum site with a lighthouse you can climb and an iguana sanctuary.
⭐️ The muelle/malecon is lovely and very enjoyable to walk around at dusk. There are climbing frames & pedal carts for the kids and some cool sculptures too along it.
🏝️ There is a beach but we didn’t visit since we could then hang out on perfect beaches at home in Yucatán any time we liked.
Where to eat in Isla Aguada
We enjoyed the beachfront Restaurante Don Guillo very much. The micheladas were particularly good! We also ate at Yahani, and Luigi’s Pizza on the malecon.
Day 4: Drive to Tapijulapa (Tabasco)
🗺️ 295km ⏱️ 4 – 5 hrs
Break up the day with a stop in Villahermosa, the capital city of Tabasco. We only stopped here briefly, to grab provisions in the supermarket, as we’d eaten leftover pizza for lunch by the side of the road!
Where to stay in Tapijulapa
This is a very small village that is not much visited by foreigners. They is a decent number of Mexican visitors to the village but accommodation is scarce and not particularly easy to reserve. That’s what makes this a real adventure though, right?
🏨 MexicoCassie recommended hotel: Kolem Jaa – we stayed here, deep in the jungle. You have to leave your car in a carpark and take a small boat down the river to get to your accommodation. Luggage is carried across the river by a zipline! It’s also possible to hike through the jungle to get to there (which we did regularly). There are around ten big, clean cabins on site. No food is provided so you have to arrive with all your provisions including water.
🏨 MexicoCassie recommended hotel: Hotel del Rio – via Instagram it is possible to get in touch with this small hotel on the river.
Days 5 – 7: Tapijulapa
What to do in Tapijulapa
Tapijulapa is the only pueblo magico in Tabasco and it absolutely charmed us. We actually visited on all three days we were in the area because it’s so cute. It has a small supermarket and a few very good restaurants. As a family we love just hanging out on cute plazas so this was perfect for us.
Cascadas de Villa Luz
This natural park is located on the far side of the river. Park, take a small boat across and enjoy the day relaxing in or next to the gorgeous sulfur pools and streams, splashing under waterfalls or walk all the way to the artificial pools at the far end of the site. There is also a tiny museum and a small and not super exciting cave (that requires an extra fee and in my opinion is absolutely not worth it). If you just want to chill in the streams it’s very relaxing. Apparently, it’s possible to rappel down waterfalls and do ziplines but we saw no proof of it.
🍽 Most people looked as if they had taken their own food in but we did see a few people selling snacks – we bought delicious empanadas.
🚿 There are bathrooms and changing rooms by the main bathing areas.
Botanical Garden, El Jardin De Dios
This is not a botanical garden like you imagine. Instead it’s a fabulously rough and ready gardens where the owners are happy to show you their land and tell you about everything they do and grow there. You’ll learn about traditional plants and their medicinal uses. The tour is only in Spanish.
❌ This spot is marked on Google Maps but there are no signs on the road as far as we could see.
Where to eat in Tapijulapa
We ate breakfast and supper at our cabin so only needed to find meals out when exploring. We ate twice at Restaurant Mariquita, overlooking the river in Tapijulapa.
I think the waiter found us hilarious because to begin with I ordered three plates between the four of us but then the kids loved the food so much they kept on asking for more and more and then more tortillas and on and on. They left full, happy and absolutely covered in cochinita sauce. We went back a second time because I had loved my pishul (a local tlayuda kinda meal) so much and really needed to eat it again.
Day 8: Drive to Palenque (Chiapas)
🗺️ 158 km ⏱️ 2hr30
Where to stay in Palenque
The first time we went to Palenque was in 2009. At this time there were very few hotels around, today, Palenque town is geared up for tourism and you’ll have your pick of hotels.
🏨 MexicoCassie recommended hotel: Hotel Cabañas Safari – this extremely reasonably priced spot has a nice pool, good restaurant and decent cabins in delightful surroundings. We stayed here and loved it.
🏨 MexicoCassie recommended hotel: Hotel Boutique Quinta Chanabnal – if you’re looking for luxurious paradise while you’re in Palenque, this is it! From its gorgeous rooms to it’s magical grounds and pool, nothing has been overlooked here.
🗺️ Or if neither of these work for you, use the MexicoCassie interactive accommodation finder to choose something better suited to your needs.
Day 9 – 11: Explore Palenque and area
What to do in Palenque
Visit the Palenque archaeolgical site
This is the second most visited archaeological site in Mexico after Chichén Itzá, as well as being a UNESCO World Heritage site. This was a Maya city state that thrived from around 200 BCE to 800 CE. It is smaller than Chichén Itzá but it contains some of the most spectacular architecture, sculptures and carvings ever produced by the Maya.
We spent a happy, sweaty day exploring this site that we haven’t seen since 2009. It’s changed a lot: no longer can visitors climb on anything at the main site, which is understandable but a shame. We could easily have spent a second day here but we had other things to do.
🅿️ If you park at the ticket office you can walk up to the ruin through the jungle, this gives access to two more little sections of ruin where you can climb and explore. If you choose to drive up to the main entrance be aware that there is very little parking available so you may get frustrated. The site museum is also by the ticket office.
👣 If you feel like learning something about Palenque, this MexicoCassie recommended guided tour of Palenque is a good option
Waterfalls around Palenque
You might not expect to find water based fun or places to swim this far inland but there are. The most famous waterfalls are the gorgeous Agua Azul & Misol-Ha Waterfalls. Misol-Ha is a one drop waterfall of 35m with a gorgeous pool where you can swim. Agua Azul is a more popular, super blue water spot with plenty of gushing falls to enjoy. Slightly quieter is the Roberto Barrios waterfalls – a great option if you want to avoid crowds of tourists.
While the tourists flock to Agua Azul and Misol-Ha, locals can be found bathing and larking around in Rio Chacamax (photo above), the river that flows through the town of Palenque. We ate at Restaurante Don Manuel on the river and wished we’d taken our swimming stuff with us as everyone was having so much fun.
👣 Take a MexicoCassie recommended tour to Agua Azul and Misol-Ha waterfalls or to the Roberto Barrios waterfalls to give yourself a break from being in charge and doing all the driving!
🛣️ Here you have choices
You can either: carry on to Campeche & Mérida as suggested for day 12 -14 or you could adapt this Chiapas road-trip itinerary to extend your adventure.
Day 12: Drive to Campeche
🗺️ 365km ⏱️ 5 hr
If you haven’t already been to Campeche, now is a good time to visit. It’s a gorgeous city with excellent museums, a lovely malecon (boardwalk, for yes, it is a coastal town), a great plaza and delicious restaurants.
→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to Campeche
On this trip we didn’t stay in Campeche city because we’ve been many times before and wanted to do something different. We decided to stop at the very local and low-key Yax-Ha Eco-park near Chiná, just outside of Campeche. We had some fun playing in the pools, riding ATVs and eating excellent food. The accommodation was a little more basic than we’d expected but overall it was a lot of fun.
Where to stay in Campeche
🏨 MexicoCassie’s best value hotel recommendation: Hotel Plaza Campeche – just outside the old city, this delightful hotel offers decent sized rooms, an outdoor pool, free parking and a good restaurant with a substantial breakfast buffet.
→ Check availability and book now
🏨 MexicoCassie full house recommendation: Volta – this small house is perfect for families and groups visiting Campeche. The house has 3 bedrooms, each with a large double bed, a private pool, well equipped kitchen and gorgeous outdoor living space. It also has good wifi and a parking space.
→ Check availability and book now
🏨 MexicoCassie’s luxurious recommendation: Hacienda Campeche – this centrally located restored 17th century mansion offers pure luxury for visitors to Campeche. With its gorgeous large rooms, spa & pool for relaxation after a busy day’s adventuring and a delicious restaurant, you won’t want for nothing here.
→ Check availability & book now
🗺 Or, if these don’t appeal, use my helpful interactive hotel finder map to find your perfect accommodation.
Day 13 – explore Campeche
What to do in Campeche
🏴☠️ Walk on the baluarte (the city’s largely intact defensive walls) – Campeche is one of the only cities in the whole of north America to still have its ancient walls intact.
🏰 Visit Fuerte San José (including Museo de Arqueología Subacuática) – up on a hill above the city is the fort of San José.
🔎 Visit the many excellent museums as you explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site that is the historic centre of Campeche.
📽 Enjoy the free video mapping shows.
🍤 Walk the Malecon at dusk before stopping off to eat coconut prawns with apple sauce.
👣 Book a MexicoCassie recommended walking tour of the city
Day 14: Drive to Mérida (Yucatán)
🗺️ 185 km ⏱️ 2hr 15
Have you already explored Mérida? I lived in Mérida for 6 beautiful years so know the place extremely well. Here are my articles about this gorgeous city because there’s simply too much to tell you in a few short paragraphs.
➡️ The MexicoCassie full & comprehensive guide to what to do in Mérida
➡️ Exploring Mérida with kids
➡️ How best to use yours 24 hours in Mérida
➡️ Finding the free things to do in Mérida
➡️ Sustainable tourism in Mérida
🚗 Everything you need to know about getting around Mérida
🚗 MexicoCassie guide to renting a car & driving in Yucatán
➡️ How to visit the Mérida cemetery
👣 Book your Mérida and beyond tours here
➡️ Finding the street art in Mérida
➡️ Cenotes to visit from Mérida
➡️ Best cenote tours from Mérida
➡️ Best beaches to visit from Mérida
➡️ Breakfast foods in Mérida
➡️ How to find the best chocolate in Mérida
➡️ Where to find the best ice creams in Mérida
✅ Read all about just how safe Mérida & Yucatán are
Where to stay in Mérida
🏨 🦜 Best Quirky Boutique Hotel: Casa San Ángel – this is an absolute gem of a hotel, perfectly located at the Remate de Montejo within walking distance of everything you’ll want to explore. This isn’t a ‘swanky’ hotel, rather it’s a deliciously quirky place and definitely one of the most interesting hotels in town. There is A.C in every room and a nice outdoor pool.
🏨 ⭐️ Best Elegant Hotel: Caza Azul Monumento Historico – If pure traditional elegance is what you’re looking for, look no further than this gorgeous slice of Mérida’s history. Price includes a wonderful breakfast.
🏨 ♻️ Best Eco Hotel: Kuka Y Naranjo – if ethical living and a serious commitment to sustainability matter to you, then you can’t beat this small, boutique hotel in Mérida. With just 8 rooms in the main hotel and 3 more in their second space, you will feel immediately relaxed here. There is a lovely outdoor eco-pool and every room has A.C. The funky hotel restaurant serves up delicious vegan takes on local cuisine.
🏨 Best Hostel: Che Nomadas – this long standing popular hostel in Mérida remains my top pick for hostels thanks to its great location, clean rooms (private & shared), fab atmosphere, great bar and good pool.
🗺 Or if none of these work for you, use my helpful interactive map to find your perfect accommodation in Mérida
🐾 If you’re hoping for a pet-friendly hotel in Mérida, know that there are a surprisingly good number to choose from and you can use the MexicoCassie guides to pet friendly Mérida and to pet friendly hotels in Yucatán to help you find them.
Alternate road trip options
And the fun doesn’t have to stop here. There are plenty of amazing road-trip adventures to be had in Yucatán too.
⭐️ Check our ready made Yucatan Itineraries ⭐️
🚗 Off-the-beaten-track in Yucatan
➕ Read the MexicoCassie guide to renting cars and driving in Yucatán
⭐️ Is Mérida worth visiting? – check the answer to this question now!
⭐️ Read up on the Maya Train Route to see if it’s something you could enjoy
6 Comments
FredinMotul · 30/04/2022 at 4:34 pm
Sounds like you guys had a grand adventure. Hubby and I are envious. We love all the places you visited, and have been to all but but a few of the places you went. Some, like Palenque, we visited when our son was only 5 years old. (He is 38 years old now!) So many wonderful places here in our region of Mexico to visit. We are going to have to start again to enjoy the new ones!! Thanks
Cassie · 30/04/2022 at 8:27 pm
Lovely to hear from you again. Gosh I bet Palenque was different last time you visited given how much it’s changed since I was there 13 yrs ago! And huzzah to having adventures!
Tanya · 18/06/2022 at 1:57 pm
Bah, just when I’m thinking “just a quick whip round the Yucatán again and then I’ll move on to areas I’ve not explored yet” and then I check your blog and suddenly I’ve added 5 more spots to check out! I should know better.. Stumbled across your site when I was researching copper canyon and it proved the perfect guide. Thank you!
Cassie · 20/06/2022 at 10:34 am
Hahaha, I’m so glad you’ve found useful info here. And, um, sorry!
Cassie · 02/02/2023 at 3:04 am
Thank you! Well, Mexicans will be moving around and many will be at the beach for sure. Palenque was pretty busy at this time last year but not crowded-crowded. Calakmul is never busy.
Nikki · 02/02/2023 at 10:00 am
Hi Cassie, what a nice trip and blog. We are planning our trip of 15 days this April (3-17 April). This trip is exactly during the two-week Easter holiday.. How crowded will it get in Yucatan/Quintana Roo, Calakmul and Palenque?
We are also considering going to Chiapas in stead of Yucatan/Quintana Roo. Is this region also crowded during the two week Easter holiday?
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