Expert guide to the best parks in Mexico City: Bosque de Chapultepec
If you’re serious about getting to know Mexico City then you can’t miss out on visiting one of the very best parks in Mexico City: Bosque de Chapultepec. This ancient and enormous park not only serves as the lungs of Mexico City, it also offers locals and visitors alike huge amounts of pleasure as they take time to enjoy it. From museums and restaurants to boating and play spaces, you could spend an entire week hanging out in this park and never get bored.
In this article we’ll examine a little of the history of Parque de Chapultepec, discuss if Chapultepec is safe and then look closely at everything there is to do in the park:
🔎 Museums
🦋 Cultural activities
🛝 Playgrounds and more for the kids – if you’re wondering what to do with kids in Mexico City, exploring this park is right at the top of the list.
🚣🏾♂️ Lakes and more
“Bosque”, by the way means “Forest”. You’ll see this park referred to as “La Bosque de Chapultepec”, “La Parque de Chapultepec” and even just “Chapultepec.
Over the past six years I’ve taken the time to get to know the incredible Chapultepec Park. I’ve explored with intention, pouring over maps and reading articles as well as asking Uber drivers to drop me at various weird points so I could see what’s what. I’m so excited to share my knowledge and enthusiasm for this gorgeous park with you so that you, too can have an incredible time in Mexico’s best urban park.
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Where is the Bosque de Chapultepec?
🧭 Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest) is located in the west of Mexico City, near to popular (and safe) areas including Roma Norte, La Condesa and Polanco. It is also the start of the incredible and beautiful Paseo de la Reforma, the avenue that runs from the park through the city to Alameda Central and beyond.
🧭 While bosque actually translates as ‘forest’, this really is, for the most part, an enormous city park. Chapultepec is one of the largest city parks in the world and is the second largest park in Latin America. Around 15 million people visit the park each year.
❗️ If you’re wondering if Chapultepec is bigger than Central Park then you may be surprised to know that it’s actually just over twice the size of Central Park!
History of Chapultepec
🦗 Chapultepec translates from Nahuatl as “at the grasshopper hill”, a name which came to the Aztecs from the Toltecs, the people who lived in the region before the Aztecs. There are even remains of a Toltec altar in the park.
🦗 Chapultepec was an important location during the Aztec period when it was seen as a sacred place and used as a repository for the remains of rulers. Later it became a retreat for the Aztec rulers. The Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan took its water from the springs in the area, something that continued for years after the Spanish invasion. In the fifteenth century Aztec ruler, Emperor Montezuma Xocoyotzin, built a palace and altar in the area, on the hill in the park.
🦗 This hill, named Chapultepec Hill, saw one of the last battles between the Spanish and the Aztec Empire in 1521. When the Spanish defeated the Aztecs, a Franciscan hermitage was then built over the Aztec altar (yawn, yet another example of Europeans behaving appallingly – see also Izamal and Mérida for examples of European Christians thinking they could construct their buildings over Indigenous religious sites).
🏰 Eventually the hermitage was demolished and Chapultepec Castle, the building we know today, was built in 1785. In 1821 the castle became the official residence of the Mexican head of state and remained so until 1940 when Los Pinos was built and the castle was converted into a landmark museum.
Where to stay near Chapultepec
There are hundreds of hotels in Mexico City, these are the few I highly recommend:
🏨 In Polanco – Camino Royal, Polanco: located in the heart of one of CDMX’s wealthiest neighbourhoods, this 5⭐️ hotel is extremely well priced for the facilities it offers and its great location by the Anthropology Museum. Enjoy spacious luxury in the hotel’s rooms, garden, outdoor pool and numerous restaurant offerings. The breakfast buffet gets great reviews too.
🏨 In Polanco – Residence L’Heritage Royal Colonial: this is a 3⭐️ hotel that feels like a 4⭐️ given the quality of breakfast, the availability of free snacks all day long and the size and quality of the rooms.
🏨 In Reforma – LaiLa Hotel, Reforma: this budget 4⭐️ hotel is well located if you want to explore the Bosque de Chapultepec while still being close to the centro historico. The rooms are clean and modern and it’s located on a road packed with great restaurant options. I often stay here when I’m in the city.
🏨 Paseo Reforma – Sofitel Reforma: if it’s city views you’re after then you can’t beat this 5 ⭐️ chic hotel located by the Ángel de la Independencia on Paseo Reforma. The large & comfortable rooms are beautifully furnished and the staff are wonderfully attentive but it’s the views over the city, particularly from the indoor pool, restaurant and bar that give this hotel its edge for me. This hotel is walking distance from the park.
🏨 In the Centro Historico – Gran Hotel Ciudad de México: this 4⭐️ hotel is one of the most magnificently beautiful hotels in Mexico City. I highly recommend staying in this perfectly located, gorgeous historic hotel that offers views over zocalo, the cathedral and National Palace. It isn’t particularly close to the park but it’s an absolutely magnificent place.
For utter ease of visiting the park, I recommend staying in Condesa, Polanca, Roma Norte or around Reforma. These, of course, are some of the most upmarket areas of Mexico City, where many luxurious hotels are to be found.
Is Chapultepec safe?
✅ Yes. I have never once felt unsafe in Chapultepec. I’ve been with my family, with just my kids, with friends, and alone and I’ve never once felt unsafe in this magnificent park. The areas of Chapultepec that you’re likely to ever explore are bordered by some of Mexico City’s most upmarket and safe areas.
❌ I wouldn’t recommend walking through any park, anywhere in the world, after dark particularly if you’re alone.
Reminiscent of New York’s Central Park, there are roads through the park so beware when crossing.
Chapultepec opening hours
Section 1: Tues – Sun (closed Monday) 6 am – 5 pm
Section 2: 24 / 7
🚾 there are public toilets throughout the park. They generally cost 5 pesos per person.
🐕🦺 Pets are not permitted in section 1 of the park but they are permitted in most of section 2.
What to do in Chapultepec
Let’s look now at the very best things to do in Chapultepec. I hope you have at least one whole day to dedicate to this park, if not two, three or even a week! That’s how excellent I believe this park to be.
⭐️ Mexico City is firmly on my list of the best family friendly spring break vacation options for Mexico ⭐️
Museums in Bosque de Chapultepec
I’ve read that Mexico City has more museums than almost any other city in the world. It wouldn’t surprise me at all as I’ve been visiting multiple times a year for six years and am still finding new museums to check out on every visit. This is one of the reasons homeschoolers in Mexico love the city so much. Chapultepec is home to 13 museums of its very own:
Museo Nacional de Historia (National History Museum)
This museum is housed in the incredible Castillo de Chapultepec high up on the hill at the centre of section one. It is worth visiting for so many reasons; the views over Reforma to the Ángel de Independencia being my favourite reason.
➡️ The castillo was built by the Viceroy of New Spain as a summer house. It was later the official residence of Emperor Maximilian I of Mexico (1864 – 67). In 1882, it was declared as the official residence of the president and remained so until 1939 when President Lazaro Cardenas chose to live in Los Pinos and, in 1939, turned the castle into a museum.
🖼 In this museum you’ll find incredible murals that explain Mexican history and require, nay demands your attention.
🏰 The second section of the museum, the Alcazár, is the palace of the last Emperor, Maximiliano and his wife, Carlota. The upper floor here is astounding as it’s an outdoor garden on the roof and the views from both floors over the city are some of the most impressive you’ll ever see. I stood for far longer than anyone might think is normal just gawping, taking it all in and being utterly grateful for the opportunity and privilege of visiting.
→ Book your tickets (this is a GetYourGuide link because although it says there’s an official site to buy tickets it doesn’t appear to work. And yes, tickets do sell out so I recommend buying in advance).
Tips: go early before the crowds. As you enter, ask for a locker token as no food or drink can be taken inside the castle and bags are checked. I was super happy to have a locker as my bag was heavy and it meant I could leave everything not valuable at the bottom of the hill in the guarded lockers and then walk up relatively unencumbered. Oh yes, the castillo is at the top of a hill.
Museo Nacional de Antropología (National Museum of Anthropology)
This, for many, is THE museum of Mexico. I’ve been three times, and yes, it’s astounding. It was also the first Mexican museum (founded in 1825). It is a huge museum that can be pretty overwhelming as it is home to collections from across Mexico’s history and geographic locations. Be sure to leave at least half a day to explore this giant of a museum.
→ Buy your tickets in advance (and try to avoid going on a Sunday as it’ll be very busy since it’s free for Mexicans on Sundays)
Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art)
This gallery contains one of the largest collections of Mexican modern art. Head here if you’re interested in learning more about modern Mexican artists.
Museo de Historia Natural
A good one with the kids, we visited here partly because it’s where you buy tickets for the Carcamo de Dolores (they come as a pair) but we really had a great time exploring the nine exhibition halls, learning about the natural history of our planet and of Mexico. It’s a very hands on museum that kids love.
Carcamo de Dolores
💦 We stumbled across the Carcamo by mistake and from that moment on I (weirdly, I admit) thought of very little else. I’m a little obsessed with Mexican murals and with those of Diego Rivera in particular and he is the muralist who decorated this place. I love the detail in his work, the barely suppressed rage, the commentary he provides. This work is an homage to the workers, engineers and architects involved in the construction of the Carcamo. This is also the only subaquatic mural in the world (what you see is not underwater, panic not!)
💦 The Carcamo de Dolores is a hydraulic structure and the mural covering it is called “Agua, el origin de la vida”. The building was constructed to commemorate the Lerma System, which supplies water to the city. In the early days, water was supplied from Xochimilco. Outside the Carcamo is a sculpture, also by Diego of Tlaloc, the Aztec god of rain. It’s huge and magnificent and when viewed from inside joins with the murals just wonderfully.
➕ Museo Jardín del Agua – this is more of a sculpture garden around the Carcamo but it’s always a pleasure to explorer.
Did you know that the famous Día de los Muertos Calavera Catrina began life as satirical commentary on the upper classes in Mexico in an etching by Jose Guadalupe Posada? She became a popular Día de Muertos symbol and was also painted into Rivera’s murals.
Museo Rufino Tamayo
This museum is a contemporary art museum not far from the Anthropology Museum.
Museo del Caracol
Right next to the Castillo, is this small museum that is home to twelve rooms outlining the history of Mexico in a series of well made dioramas. The building is spiral shaped, which is nice as it means no stairs until you leave.
Casa del Lago
This is a cultural centre that often has great exhibitions of social commentary. I saw a wonderful selection of posters from International Women’s Days throughout history in the gardens here.
Papalote, Museo del Niño
👧🏽 This is one of the best kids’ museums I’ve ever visited. Mexico City has so much to offer children that it’s almost kid heaven. My kids have adored it forever and it has so much in it that it grows with the children. We first went when they were three and five and have been multiple times since then. They loved it every bit as much as the first time they went.
🖐🏿 It’s incredibly hands-on, everything is aimed at the children and learning through play. There is both an Imax, an educational cinema – the price of these can be added on to your entry ticket. Staff often speak English and will rush to help non-Spanish speaking kids as everything is in Spanish (I know this because they’d rush to help mine and then invariably be surprised at the quick language change).
Complejo Cultural Los Pinos
This former presidential residence is now a cultural centre offering exhibitions about Mexican culture.
➕ Museo de Sitio – Visitors’ Centre offering information about the history of the park
Kids & play spaces in Bosque de Chapultepec
🛝 This is really the most wonderful park in the world. If your kids are anything like mine you’ll never be able to leave. There are fabulous playgrounds, an aerial walk way, a tirolesa (zipline), house of mirrors, a carousel, trees to climb and hug, street stalls to gawp at and parents to beg for toys and candies. There are streams to cross, workshops to join, pedalos to pedal, hills to roll down and so, so much more.
💰 Be prepared for the kids to want to buy tourist/kid tat as you explore. We usually let our kids get something small or a t-shirt because in the main areas it’s so very hard to avoid the sellers.
🛝 Playgrounds in the Bosque de Chapultepec
Look on Google Maps using the following playground names
- Parque la Tapatía
- Nidos Colgantes
- By both zonas de comidas are play spaces
- Parque Hormigas
- Tamayo
- Constituentes (not on google maps but next to the skate park and in front of the Natural History Museum)
🌳 The tirolesa (zipline) is actually two short aerial walk-ways, one for older kids and one for younger. It’s short enough and cheap enough that my kids often have two or three turns each (while we relax with plates of fruit beneath them. Yes. We’re smart parents), the staff take safety seriously and harnesses and helmets are required.
🪩 The Casa de Espejos (House of Mirrors) and Crystal Maze are fun for kids (once in my opinion, multiple times in that of my kids). These activities are all well priced so as to allow as many people access as possible. There is also a carousel, which my kids still love to ride. These activities are in one location near to the “zona de comida” and the Fuente de las Ranas. There’s a playground here too. We generally spend a few happy hours here with the kids running around having all the fun.
➡️ You can eat at any one of the food stands as they all sell pretty much identical options. It’s cheap, cheerful and absolutely kid friendly.
Other cultural activities in Bosque de Chapultepec
Jardín Botánico (Botanical Gardens)
🌼 This magical place is home to hundreds of Mexican plants, from cacti and succulents to orchids and lavender. It’s such a wonder to explore. It’s also a welcoming space and although there are guided tours offered, the joy comes in wandering aimlessly through the area. Clamber over the drum paths, climb a tree, sit and contemplate, have a swing, it’s all possible in these wonderful gardens.
🖐🏿 There are also often special sessions for kids (which my kids always hope for when we show up).
Open Tues – Sun 9 am – 3 pm.
Audiorama
🎶 Oh the audiorama, what a place. I’ve never experienced anything like this before. Hidden away behind the Fuente de la Templanza you could go forever without even knowing this gorgeous spot, just perfect for a doze or a contemplative moment, exists. Before heading in be sure to allow a moment to be awed by Ahuehuete “El Sargento”, apparently the last remaining Ahuehuete (Montezuma cyprus) tree in the park. Then head to the left of the memorial to squadron 201 and find yourself in a truly astounding spot.
Before the Spanish arrived, this was the Cincalco cavern that led to the Mictlán, a place considered to be a portal between the worlds of the living and the dead by the Mexicas. They also believed that Tláloc, the god of water, lived here. Today, this is a place that makes you feel as if you’re deep in a jungle rather than sitting in an enormous urban park in one of the world’s biggest cities. There is always music playing in the background here. When we were there last it was a jazz day so we sat on a bench and enjoyed the experience. I believe you can also ask to borrow a book but I don’t know how this works.
Zoológico de Chapultepec
🐼 The zoo is free, huge and on a zoo scale, really not too horrendous. We’ve been a few times. We always use our visits to talk with our kids about the realities of zoos and keeping animals in captivity. There are even giant pandas here, which was a first for us.
It’s open 9 am – 4. 30 pm but last time we visited early we realised that many animals are not awake at 9 am! Go a little later if you want to see everything. It’s organised into regions and there’s a clear path you’re expected to follow.
Aztlán Parque Urbano
The original fería closed down and has been replaced by this brand new amusement park. In late 2024 it is partially open.
Lakes, sculptures, monuments and exploring
As you might expect from a city like CDMX, the park is full, overflowing, with sculptures and monuments. There are over one hundred, apparently. From the Altar a la Patria near the base of the castle, to the Fuente Xochipilli, there are so many magnificent ones to check out.
Lakes
🦢 The artificial lakes were built in the time of Porfirio Díaz and all are concrete. Both the first and second sections have lakes. In the first section you can hire pedalos (pedal boats) on both sides of the bigger lake – called el Lago de Chapultepec (my advice is to head to the quieter side, near the Casa del Lago, the lines are shorter here).
At the far end of this large lake is a bookshop, Librería Porrua, that also has a coffee shop. Opposite, there’s a Starbucks.
🦢 In the second section, Lago Mayor is also available for pedalo rental. This lake has three restaurants on its shore. Lago Menor has just one restaurant on its shore. You’ll see that the Lago Mayor here is a popular spot for a stroll or a picnic with locals.
Jardín de Adultos Mayores (Senior Citizen Garden)
Yeah, a part of the park we couldn’t enter, sigh- there are thirty-two sculptures here, a library, a work shop, spaces for workshop classes, a lake, library and so much more. And did I mention I wasn’t allowed in?
Getting fit
🏋🏾♂️ There is all the usual free gym equipment available as well as bike spaces, a skate park, lots of space to walk/hike without getting lost as we did. Even within sections one and two there is plenty to do and see to keep you busy for days.
You can also rent bikes from section one (la casa de la bici) or take in your own bikes.
Eating in Bosque de Chapultepec
🌮 As noted, there are two main zonas de comida, these sell street food primarily and are both in section one of the park. They’re decent and well priced. We always enjoy eating here.
🍽 There are a number of restaurants scattered around the park but we haven’t tried them as we enjoy street food too much.
🍕 At the kids’ museum there’s a food court that has pizzas and burgers and as you walk around there are affordable street snacks, fruit and drinks everywhere.
4 Comments
Dr. Keith A. Thorp · 11/08/2022 at 9:00 am
A nice summation of our magnificent park. Thank you! Since the park is a 15 minute walk from our apartment, it is one of my favorite diversions.
The Museo Tamayo is well worth a visit, even if only for the marvelous architecture of the building. But the collection of art is also terrific. At present they have a large exhibit of Tamayo’s pieces, many of which I had never seen. He was a true genius. But there are noteworthy works by other modern artists as well.
The Casa del Lago also has concerts occasionally, so it is worth looking up their schedule if you are going to be in the area. The ballet Swan Lake has been presented on the terraces overlooking the lake.
A fourth section of the park was added in the last year, so it is now larger than ever. And a cable-bus line is being added to connect more efficiently from Los Pinos to the southwest ends of the area. It appears that the Dolores Olmedo Museum is moving much of its collection to a new facility in the park as well. Last fall they staged their ofrenda for Día de Muertos there.
It just gets better all the time.
Cassie · 11/08/2022 at 9:04 am
Thank you for the extra info. I always wanted to get to Tamayo but there is so much to do in CDMX that I never had a moment. Like I said, six years of assiduously visiting museums and galleries and still not got them all visited! Good tip re Casa del Lago, thanks. And yes, I’ve seen the fourth section. It’s a truly magnificent place, a jewel for the city to treasure and of which to be truly proud. You’re very lucky to live so close. Next time you visit, do hug a tree from me.
Dr. Keith A Thorp · 11/08/2022 at 5:26 pm
I also forgot to mention the museums you may not have visited in Los Pinos: one is dedicated to the life of Lazaro Cardenes (arguably Mexico’s most consequential president), another to Benito Juarez (though not as interesting as the Juarez apartment at the Palacio Nacional, if that ever re-opens) and the museum of corn (Museo Cencalli, Casa de Maiz). The latter is in a large structure at the edge of the complex. They are all very interesting if you are visiting again and get the chance to see them. That, and the small museum in the visitors center at the base of the hill, brings the number of museums inside the park to 13!
All the best to you and your family.
Cassie · 11/08/2022 at 10:30 am
Damn. I did include the visitors’ centre but you’re right, the museums in Los Pinos didn’t cross my mind.