Your Expert Guide: what to do in Merida, Mexico

Published by Cassie on

Green text box: Your expert guide to Mérida, Mexico. 4 photos of iconic places in Mérida: 1 of Monumento a la Patria, 1 of Mérida letters, 1 of Museo Mundo Maya & 1 of Parque la Plancha at night

The vibrant Mexican city of Mérida is a popular place with visitors to Mexico and with good reason: it’s one of the safest cities in all of the Americas, it’s bursting at the seams with history & culture. It’s also incredibly well located for anyone wanting to explore cenotes, Maya ruins and gorgeous beaches.

By the time you reach the end of this article you will have enough information to plan your Mérida vacation itinerary, your day trips, pick a hotel and even to know which restaurants you might want to try. 

There are affiliate links in this article. If you click and make a purchase I could make a small sum at zero cost to you. Thank you!

Who better to help you figure out what you’re going to do in Mérida, than me, MexicoCassie, the original Mérida blogger? I’ve been writing about Mérida since 2016, I’ve published two books about the area (Moving to Mérida and a Yucatán Guidebook) and I wrote for the famous Yucatán Today travel magazine for years.

🐾 If you’re in town with your dog(s), consult the MexicoCassie guide to Mérida with pets

👧🏽 If you are visiting Mérida with your kids, don’t miss the MexicoCassie dedicated guide to finding fun for kids in the city

♻️ If sustainable travel is your thing, read the full MexicoCassie article about sustainable tourism in Mérida

​Mérida in the roaring 2020s

Mérida is a rapidly growing and changing city. It is firmly on the radar of international visitors as well as national tourists. When you visit the city, if you look carefully you will find 2 distinct Méridas, and how you interact with them will very much impact on your trip. 

⭐️ You can visit modern, trendy Mérida and stay in expensive boutique hotels, eat in cool restaurants, visit bars that look like they’ve been transported straight from Tulum or New York and buy expensive Mexican souvenirs.

or,

⭐️ You can visit a more low key traditional Mérida, stay in classic & gorgeous hotels that have been serving the city for many years, eat traditional Yucatecan food without breaking the bank and drink in cantinas that locals love. You can shop for traditional Yucatecan souvenirs that won’t break the bank. 

Or, of course, you can dip in and out of the two, there’s no reason not to. 

This article, because of who I am, will lean towards the more traditional, slower-paced Mérida. I will share places I know and love, that I think will really let you appreciate Yucatecan culture & history.

​Highlights of Mérida

looking down on the plaza from above, trees at eyeline, Mérida letters visible through a gap in trees. Behind is top of cathedral and Mexican flag flying

✅ Mérida is a beautiful, old colonial city with every modern convenience holidaymakers might need. 

🏅 It is the only city in the Americas to have been named City of Culture in the Americas more than once.

😇 Locals are extremely friendly, and are happy to help when visitors don’t speak Spanish.

🌟 There is so much to do in and around Mérida. The beaches are beautiful and untainted by mass tourism; the Mayan ruins are plentiful and the cenotes are incredible natural wonders to behold.

Best time to visit Mérida

🔆 The best time to visit Mérida is between October – March when the climate is pleasant. Most days during this period will be warm enough for t-shirts, although when a cold front comes through it can be chilly. Visitors from colder countries will enjoy empty beaches (because it’s too cold for locals to swim) at this time. 

🔆🔆 From April – June it gets progressively hotter and sweatier until the rains arrive, generally in late June.

🌦 June – September will see many days with an hour or so of heavy rain and because this is officially hurricane season, there may be some tropical storms passing through.

How to stay cool in Mérida

☀️ Follow the locals’ example and walk in the shade

☀️ Always carry water with you

☀️ Expect to stop for refreshing sorbets or paletas regularly

☀️ Don’t force yourself to be out all day long, the heat in the middle of the day keeps most people inside

☀️ Wear light clothes

MexicoCassie recommended hotels in Mérida

There are hundreds of hotels, hostels and apartments to choose from in Mérida. When choosing where to book, I recommend considering 🗺 location (including parking if you need it) | 💦 access to pool | 💨 if you’ll need A.C.

🏨 🦜 Best Quirky Boutique Hotel: Casa San Ángel – this is an absolute gem of a hotel, perfectly located at the Remate de Montejo within walking distance of everything you’ll want to explore. This isn’t a ‘swanky’ hotel, rather it’s a deliciously quirky place and definitely one of the most interesting hotels in town. There is A.C in every room and a nice outdoor pool.

→ Check rates and availability now

🏨 ⭐️ Best Elegant Hotel: Caza Azul Monumento Historico – If pure traditional elegance is what you’re looking for, look no further than this gorgeous slice of Mérida’s history. Price includes a wonderful breakfast.

Check rates and availability now

🏨 ♻️ Best Eco HotelKuka Y Naranjo – if ethical living and a serious commitment to sustainability matter to you, then you can’t beat this small, boutique hotel in Mérida. With just 8 rooms in the main hotel and 3 more in their second space, you will feel immediately relaxed here. There is a lovely outdoor eco-pool and every room has A.C. The funky hotel restaurant serves up delicious vegan takes on local cuisine.

→ Check rates and availability now

🏨 Best Hostel: Che Nomadas – this long standing popular hostel in Mérida remains my top pick for hostels thanks to its great location, clean rooms (private & shared), fab atmosphere, great bar and good pool.

→  Check rates and availability now

🗺 Or if none of these work for you, use my helpful interactive map to find your perfect accommodation in Mérida

🐾 If you’re hoping for a pet-friendly hotel in Mérida, know that there are a surprisingly good number to choose from and you can use the MexicoCassie guides to pet friendly Mérida and to pet friendly hotels in Yucatán to help you find them.

Getting there & getting around

✈️ Mérida’s international airport has multiple flights every day from the US, Canada and Mexico City

🚗 The city of Mérida has good roads linking it to the main cities ValladolidCampeche, & Cancun as well as smaller destinations such as Progreso, the Homun Cenote Circle and more

Check car rental options now

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to renting a car and driving in Yucatán

🚝 Mérida is on the route of the Maya Train

🚌 ADO provides a good network of buses linking the cities across the Yucatán Peninsula

→ Check bus timetables and book tickets on ADO or Busbud

(I recommend using Busbud because ADO recently cancelled my tickets, didn’t warn me and then claimed it was my fault. They eventually returned my money but I speak fluent Spanish and was willing to argue my case).

Getting around Mérida

🚗 It’s perfectly possible to drive around Mérida. There are numerous parking garages in the city centre and many hotels have private parking. Having a rental car, of course, makes life easy if you want to leave the city. It’s worth knowing though that the roads in Mérida can be very busy, particularly in Centro and on the main arterial roads.

🚕 If you don’t want to drive, there are traditional cabs as well as Uber & Didi in Mérida.

🚌 The buses system in Mérida has improved greatly in the last few years with the arrival of the Va Y Ven system. These buses link almost everywhere in the city and as long as you have bought your swipe card (from Oxxo, Willy’s, SuperAki and other places) you’re good to go – that’s right, it’s a cash free system. You can download the app to get bus routes.

🚴🏾‍♂️ Much like other big cities around the world it’s now possible to pick up a bike on the street and ride with EnBici. You’ll see the bikes as you explore. To use them you’ll need to download the app. Then you just scan and ride.

👣 My personal preference is always to walk.

→ Read the full MexcioCassie guide to getting around Mérida

How long do you need in Mérida?

Colourful letters spelling MERIDA with monumento de la patria in the background

⏳ That depends on how long you have. I lived in Mérida for six years and was never bored. Whatever you can manage is going to be just fine, but for sure you’ll never be short of things to do in Merida. 

⏳ While I definitely think that more time is better, even 24 hours in Mérida gives you a good chance to see quite a lot, if you plan your time well. 

⏳ In one weekend you could visit the local markets, stroll around Mérida Centro, enjoy some culture and see a museum.

⏳ If you can spend a week or longer in Mérida then you will have ample opportunity to get to the beach, to visit a cenote, see a ruin or two and even take day trips to see the flamingos or pink salt lakesRoad trips from Mérida are also always worth considering. 

Is Mérida safe?

🇲🇽 Mérida is one of the safest cities in Mexico. It was ranked by CEOWorld Magazine as the second safest city in North America after Quebec City. In 2022, Condé Nast Traveler Magazine readers voted Mérida the fourth best city in the world and Forbes also ranks Mérida as one of the best Mexican cities to live in.

🇲🇽 Yucatán is one of two Mexican states for which the US almost never issues safety warnings. 

🇲🇽 There’s very little petty crime in Mérida compared to big cities around the world.  My advice when visiting any Mexican destination is to be respectful of local laws. Don’t do anything illegal and you’ll be fine. 

🇲🇽 Police corruption in Mérida is almost unheard of. If you’re stopped by the police at any point, be polite, and don’t worry about being exhorted as it really is an extremely rare occurrence here. 

🇲🇽 When crossing the road, always look both ways, even when it’s a one-way street and never assume pedestrians have the right of way, even at crossings. 

→ Find out more in the MexicoCassie guide to safety in Yucatan 

What to do in Mérida

In this article we’ll focus on not only the very best things in Mérida but also some of the quirkier things you can do while in the city and you’ll find some real insider tips too.

Most visitors to Mérida spend their time in the historic centre, generally called Centro or Centro historico

🆓 – free activities are marked with this icon (Read the full MexicoCassie guide to free events in Mérida)

Click through to the sections that interest you

Guided tours | Plaza Grande | Other plazas | Paseo de Montejo | Mercado Lucas de Galvez  | Quirky Mérida |

Guided tours of Mérida

2 photos - 1 of open air red tour bus in daylight, 1 of electric carriage at night

One way to get a good feel for the city is to take a guided tour. Most of these tours begin on the Plaza Grande (the main square).

🆓 Free walking tours of Mérida – 2 options:

The Ayuntamiento de Mérida provides free Mérida walking tours with a local guide (each tour takes about ninety minutes) daily Monday to Saturday at 9.30 am and 5 pm from the Tourist Info on the Plaza Grande as well as at 6.30 pm from Tourist Info on Paseo de Montejo.

Insider Knowledge: make sure you are prompt and show up at least fifteen minutes early, since each tour takes just twenty-five people.

or, reserve your spot on a free Mérida walking tour through the world famous tours, GuruWalk

🛞 Tours on wheels

Depending on your desired level of activity you can take the hop-on-hop-off bus tour, a guided-bike tour or an e-bike tour of the city.

Until recently I wouldn’t have recommended the carriage rides around Mérida because I don’t think the horses are well enough looked after. However, there are a few electric carriages (pictured above) you can take now, which are a good, ethical alternative.

Exploring Mérida by area

Plaza Grande 

view of Mérida's plaza - plants, people, flag, cathedral in background and a pigeon photobombing

Most visitors to Mérida will begin their adventures here on this newly renovated plaza at the heart of the centro historico. Here you’ll find some of the city’s most emblematic historic buildings and colonial architecture:

Palacio de Gobierno – as in most cities in Mexico, the palacio is adorned with murals explaining the region’s history – you are welcome to go inside and explore them

Catedral de San Ildefonso – one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas, it was built in the 16th century using stone plundered from the ancient Mayan city of Th’o 

Casa de Montejo – the oldest colonial building in Mérida, it is now a free museum

Centro Cultural Olimpio – free events here, also tourist information and upstairs is a free art gallery

Mérida letters – take a photo with the city letters (Insider Knowledge: Head upstairs in Palacio Municipal to take photos over the plaza and city letters)

El Trebol Bazar – a collection of handicraft stores and a giant traditional bench for all your Instagram needs

Sunday market – on Sundays the plaza turns into a gorgeous open air market where you will find traditional souvenirs and street food stalls

🍦 Sit & enjoy an ice cream at Dulceria Y Sorbeteria Colón and watch the world go by in this gorgeous location of the oldest ice cream store in Mérida. My most recommended flavours are: coconut, mamey & the ‘super secret locals in the know flavour’, crema morisca, that you have to ask for with a nod & and a wink (kidding, don’t, they’ll think you’re weird, although it isn’t always avaiable). It kind of tastes like Christmas in an ice cream.

Insider Knowledge: From Plaza Grande, walk down Calle 62. One block down (calle 65) is the excellent Cielo Hamacas. I’ve bought every single one of my hammocks here. Keep walking down to Parque San Juan, cross the park onto Calle 64. From here walk down Calle 64a. This is one of my favourite walks in the whole of Mérida because the streets are small and the houses beautiful. Keep walking until you reach Parque de la Ermita. 

🍴Near the Plaza Grande I highly recommend trying Gorditas Doña Gorda (traditional snack food) and Cafe La Habana (corner of 59 x 62).

🛍 Calles 60 & 62 from the plaza are resplendent with souvenir stores. On Calle 60 you’ll find a mixed bag of the souvenir shops that have been there forever (those between Plaza Grande & Parque Santa Lucía), newer Playa del Carmen style stores (open fronts and cheap & cheerful souvenirs), and some seriously cool stores selling really random interesting things. On Calle 62, I found many ‘upmarket’ souvenir stores that sell expensive items from all around Mexico at inflated prices. You could be in Oaxaca or San Miguel de Allende when you’re in those stores.

🆓 Free events on the Plaza Grande

📹 Peidras Sagradas – video mapping on the Cathedral. Fridays 8 pm.  Be sure to show up early to get a good view of this incredible show that is beamed onto the cathedral. 

📹 Dialogos del Conquistador – video mapping on Casa de Montejo. Wednesdays 8.30 pm. This is part video mapping, part theatrical performance at the house of the Spanish Conquistadors, the Montejo family. 

🏐 Pok ta Pok demonstration – Pok Ta Pok is the ball game that the ancient Maya played to thank the gods for a good harvest and ask for their protection. The name of the game comes from the curious sound that the ball produced against the floors and walls of the courts, or when the players hit it with their forearms or with their hips, depending on the type of game. You can watch an exact representation of this game every Saturdays at 8 pm right at the Atrium of the Cathedral of San Ildefonso.

💃🏻 VaqueriaMondays 8.30 pm.  Watch a local dance troupe perform traditional dances and enjoy the witty poetry that is interspersed with the dancing.    

🎶 TrovaTuesdays at 8pm by the Centro Cultural Olimpio. (A trova is a form of romantic musical composition)

 

Mérida centro historico: other plazas

Plaza Grande is the focal point for the centro historico but there are plenty of other gorgeous plazas to check out too. These include:

Parque Santa Lucía
giant white double chairs on a plaza

🍴 Santa Lucía has a number of truly excellent restaurants to choose from including Rosa Sur 32 and Apaola, 2 long time favourites in the city.

💋 The giant “tu y yo” chairs are here. These chairs are also called Sillas Confidantes, and Kissing Chairs. Everyone loves to have their photos taken here. You’ll find regular sized chairs across the state but these are the only giant ones 

🆓 Serenata de Santa Lucia, Thursdays 9 pm. This free show is extremely popular so either book a table at a restaurant on the square or get there early. 

🍫 Hidden away in one corner of the plaza is Ki’Xocoloatl, an excellent artisan chocolate shop and café. Do not miss it.

Small plazas between Plaza Grande & Santa Lucía

Parque Hidalgo – if you stop here be sure to look inside the gorgeous Hotel Caribe and Gran Hotel. The Music Museum, Palacio de la Música is just off to the side of this plaza on Calle 59

Parque de la Madre – opposite is the famous UADY university building and to one side is the Teatro José Peón Contreras (Mérida’s famous opera house)  

Parque Santa Ana
church with 2 spires behind palm trees on very blue day, person walking in front

This pleasant square has a good produce market, is surrounded by some of the oldest souvenir stores in town and is often host to tianguis markets from across the country.  There are a number of art galleries around here now too. Manjar Blanco, a favourite restaurant with locals is on Santa Ana.

Parque de la Mejorada

Two of the three city arches are found near here. The plaza is home to Los Almendros, a long standing and very popular restaurant in the city. This is a lovely place to walk around as the architecture here is quite special. The Museo de la Canción is here – this museum will appeal to people who enjoy local traditional music.

Paseo de Montejo

palacio cantón - grand 2 storey building with palm tree outside

This imposing boulevard is the second most visited area of the city after the Plaza Grande. Here you’ll find numerous trendy restaurants, bars, shops & museums. Enjoy a stroll up & down the Paseo (as it’s known to locals), taking in the atmosphere, seeing the sculptures, & life going on around you. Make sure you walk all the way from the Remate at one end to the Monumento a la Patria at the other (photo above).

🆓 Free events along the Paseo de Montejo

Noche Mexicana – Every Saturday on the Remate de Paseo de Montejo between 8 -10 pm you’ll find musical demonstrations and stalls. Between the Remate and Plaza Grande, the roads are closed to vehicles and there are markets and stalls set up.  

Walking toursdaily except Sundays at 6.30 pm you can join a free walking tour. Begins outside the tourist information by the Fiesta Americana hotel.

Silent Witness on the Palacio Canton – video mapping on Wednesdays 8.30 pm.

Isla de la Luz – Every Friday at 8 pm there is a video mapping performance on the Monumento a la Patria

BicirutaSunday mornings sees much of Mérida’s centro historico close to vehicles and open itself up to bikes, skateboards and pedestrians. Go down, rent a bike and join locals relaxing in the sun.

➕ If you’re exploring Mérida with children, you could use this scavenger hunt to make it more fun for them. 

🔎 There are numerous museums along Paseo de Montejo: Casa de Gemelos / Casa 495, Museo de Antroplogia e Historia, Quinta Montes Molina, Centro Cultural Fernando Castro Pacheo (a fabulous artist) & a small Chocolate Museum

→ The MexicoCassie guide to museums in Mérida offers a full list of museums in the city.

Don’t miss

⭐️ Monumento a la Patria – this is actually a roundabout but it’s also a tourist destination in its own right, there are even police stationed there to help people view it safely. There are small Mérida city letters just in front of it for some good photo opportunities

⭐️ Everyone’s favourite ruined buildings in the Santander compound (you’ll know what I mean when you see them)

⭐️ El Pinar – the gorgeous pink mystery mansion that’s actually possible to visit after many years of being closed (see the MexicoCassie guide to museums in Mérida for details)

🛍 There are some good shopping opportunities along the Paseo, the most famous (and definitely weird) of them all is Galerias Triumfal, a truly weird shop with a giant zebra standing watch over its doors. Tejon Rojo is one of my favourite souvenir (and cool tshirt) stores in Mérida. I’m all partial to a bit of shopping for interesting things in Matilda (by the Monumento a la Patria)

🍴My food recommendations along Paseo de Montejo include Cafeteria Impala, one of Mérida oldest and most iconic restaurants, Hennesseys Irish Pub (serves incredible food), the Korean Grill, jazz brunch at the iconic Rosas y Xocolate Hotel and, of course, an ice cream at Dulceria & Sorbeteria Colón.

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to ice creams in Mérida

Insider Knowledge: At the Monumental a la Patria you will find Pan Montejo Matriz, a very popular traditional bakery and Kuuk, one of Mérida’s fanciest restaurants.

Mercado Lucas de Galvez

green peppers and chiles in the market

Merida’s main market is a veritable maze of wonder. I love heading down here for a morning of exploration. It’s practically impossible not to enjoy getting lost in this enormous market. You’ll find a new(-ish) upstairs area with a fairly quiet artisan market and a collection of small restaurants.

The main market remains the same as ever, busy, with clear areas for meats, fish, veg, jewellery, clothing and so much more.

My favourite stops when I’m in the market are for: castacan (pork belly), fresh tacos (just as for $10 pesos worth, I promise you it’ll be enough unless you’re feeding the whole town), coconuts & quesillo (Oaxaca cheese).

➕ While you’re around here, don’t miss the Museo de la Ciudad (one of my favourite museums in Mérida), Piñata Alley (calle 65), and exploring the busy stores all around the market – they’re great for picking up traditional clothing, Yucatecan souvenirs, and more (Calles 56A & 65A).

MexicoCassie recommended market tours

⭐️ 3 hour walking tour of the market – explore the market with a guide, sampling all sorts of traditional foods while you’re there

Check tour details & book now

⭐️ 5 hour market tour & cooking class – explore the market, buying ingredients that you’ll then use in the cooking class where you’ll learn to make a traditional meal with a local chef

Check tour details & book now

Parque la Plancha

night view of parque la plancha - amphitheatre lit up in colours of Mexican flag (green, white red)

Mérida’s long awaited new urban park absolutely deserves a mention in this article because it has truly become a destination for locals & visitors alike. Located on the edge of the historic centre it’s within easy reach of town’s main attractions.

Within the park there are 2 museums: Museo de los Ferrocarriles (Train Museum) & Museo de la Luz, both of which are excellent.

→ Use the MexicoCassie guide to museums in Mérida to plan your museum adventures

🍴 There is a large open building near the train museum where you’ll find a good selection of food stalls representing most of the popular restaurants and cafes in Mérida. There are bathrooms here too. There are other cafe options scattered throughout the park.

🛝 Obviously, this is a great place for kids as there are multiple play spaces including a water space children can enjoy. The fuente interactiva (interactive fountain) is also fun with the kids

🐾 There is a dog park here & the park offers a tourist train, a bike rental service and even free lending library

🎭 The open air theatre holds regular events. I recommend following them on facebook to get ahold of schedules.

Quirky Mérida

large flamboyan tree with colourful graves underneath it

OK, but what about the weirder stuff in Mérida? What are most visitors not seeing but maybe should?

🆓 Mérida Cementerio General  

I find walking through cemeteries to be both relaxing and fascinating. It’s also a great way to learn about a society and culture. I highly recommend checking out the main cemetery in Merida on your own. 

There is a Wednesday night tour (8 pm) of the cemetery but it’s all in Spanish so take along a friend if you don’t speak Spanish and want to know what’s going on. This is yet another of the fantastic events put on by the local government. The tour is free and lasts around an hour. Meet at the corner of calle 89A/Calle 66.

If you’re in Mérida in October / November, be sure to read up about Hanal Pixán, the Maya equivalent of Día de los Muertos. 

🗣 Noche de Leyendas

This is a Spanish only interactive historical walking our through the streets of Mérida on Friday and Saturday nights at 8.40pm. Book through Facebook or via WhatsApp 9991291502.

In late 2024 I took this tour to see what it was all about. Honestly, I hated it. You might not, (clearly) but I hated it. We were walked around Calle 60 and the Plaza Grande with the guides loudly talking about the Conquistadors in a weirdly positive light. I felt extremely uncomfortable with the whole thing. We were then taken into a carpark to see some apparently old tunnels (the reason I signed up) but it really wasn’t worth it. It’s definitely quirky & weird though.

🪲 Maquech Beetles

small beetle with gem stones glued to its back and a piece of chain too

When you’re strolling around centro, look out for the bejewelled beetles in little fish tanks. Yup.

→ The MexicoCassie guide to maquech beetles will shed some light on just why Yucatecans stick jewels on bugs.

👻 Paranormal Museum  

This museum in the east of the city is a fascinating gem of a spot. Learn all about the spooky side of Mexico here.

💃🏻 Remembranzas Musicales

On Plaza Santiago, every Tuesday 8.30 pm, join locals to dance and enjoy a live band.

What else is there to see in Mérida

Mérida's main museum - green 'nest' style with blue sky all around

🔎 In the north of Mérida, by Costco (check out the cenote in the car park if you’re up here) is El Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, one of the most eminent museums in the city

🌮 Don’t miss the Gastronomy Museum for an informative and tasty view of Mérida’s history.

🛝 Parque Las Americas in Garcia Gineres is a four-block park with interesting historical points to see.

📹 One final video mapping extravaganza is La Peni, which illuminates the old penitentiary building on Parque de la Paz Thurs – Sun 7 pm, 8 pm, and 9 pm.

Where to eat in Mérida

Merida has become a foodie city, so much so that if you were to read magazines such as Style and Leisure or Fodor’s you might dismiss Merida as being a city for the wealthy and super cool, somewhere eating out will break the bank or make you feel unworthy for not being a super woke hipster from New York with your own private jet.

Oh, my friends, no no no. Merida has something for everyone. Yes, if you are searching for exclusive fine dining in Merida, you can find it, for sure, but if you’re after a little more low-key and casual or even low-key elegance, you’ll also be able to eat extremely well in Merida. (And, sssshhhh, but honestly, some of the restaurant names you’ll see chucked around aren’t actually nearly as good as people claim. I’ve eaten in some very ‘nice’ places and been left underwhelmed and substantially poorer for it).

I’ve mentioned a few restaurants as we’ve gone through the article by location but let’s take a wider look at some of my favourite options. Of course, they may well be different to anything you’ve read about everywhere else. This is because there are so many restaurants that we can all be right (!).

→ If you’re travelling with kids, be sure to open up the MexicoCassie guide to feeding kids in Mexico to take the stress out of mealtimes

Breakfast in Mérida

photo taken looking down over coffee on left and bowl of chilauquiles - avocao, banana, red onions, cilantro all in green sauce on totopos

Breakfast is a big deal in Mexico and personally, I think Mexican breakfasts are the best in the world.

→ Use the MexicoCassie guide to Mexican breakfasts to help decipher menus.

These are my favourite breakfast spots in Mérida

🌮 Wayan’é in Itzimna is the best breakfast taco spot in the whole of Mérida. Get there early to ensure you don’t miss out. 

🌽 Pancho Maiz – in my opinion this is the overall best breakfast in Mérida (they are open all day but I’ve only been for breakfast). Everything here is perfection and the staff are really friendly and helpful. I recommend reserving a table.

🍳 Cassandra – a gorgeous cafe in Parque Aleman. Not only is the food excellent and extremely good value but this is also an openly queer-welcoming space, which is always super important to highlight.

🌮  Cuna – a gorgeous restaurant in a beautiful hotel (Wayam Mundo). Perfect for a relaxed breakfast with friends. 

🚱 Can you drink the water in Merida, Mexico? 

You can’t drink the tap water, no. The water in the pipes has been treated and is clean but then it sits in tinacos (storage on roofs) where bacteria can build up. It also has a naturally high mineral content that you don’t want in your body. Locals don’t drink it.

Because no one drinks or uses it, it means you can be sure that the ice is safe, the water placed on your table is safe and even salads are safe. Everyone uses garafon water.

Main meals in Mérida

plate of cochinita salbutes and a lemonade - people in background

I don’t want to split lunch and supper here because, of course, people eat their main meals at different times of the day.

🍽 Corredor Gastronomico (Calle 47 from the Remate) – here you’ll find some good restaurants including Catrín, which you’ll see below, I really like. On this road you’ll find good but generally pricy restaurants.

🌯  Mexican with a Twist: Catrín where traditional Mexican food with a twist is the name of the game. Make sure you a) order a good tequila, the staff really know what they’re doing, and b) try to sit outside if you go for an evening meal, you’ll know why when you do it. Then write to me and tell me I was super super right!

🌯 Traditional Yucatecan: Manjar Blanco (as seen on Netflix) – star of the Taco Chronicles was known to locals as an excellent restaurant long before TV found it. It remains a hot spot in Mérida and I definitely recommend having lunch here. The cochinita pibil is particularly great. (pictured above)

🌯 Traditional Yucatecan: Cafe Habana – for a low-key, super local experience, you can’t beat Cafe Habana. Honestly, it feels as if nothing has changed in here since the 1980s and I mean this is a good way.

🍽 Traditional: Platos Rotos – this is a very popular old breakfast spot (also great for lunch) just off Ave Colón. Locals and visitors alike love the no frills delicious food served here. I make a point to eat here every time I’m in town.

Insider Knowledge: When locals want fancy traditional food such as cochinita pibil, they go to Pueblo Pibil in Tixkokob. It’s good. The menu is small, it’s all very traditional but done very, very well. I recommend booking here. And take an uber so you can drink.

🌯 Super kid friendly:  Los Trompos or Pollo Feliz  Both serve perfectly decent food (Los Trompos is traditional Yucatecan food and Pollo Feliz serves rotisserie chicken) and alcohol. Both are chain restaurants so it’s worth checking out on a map to see which have children’s play spaces because, while most do, some don’t.

🌯 Street Food: Street food in Mérida is plentiful. Check my article dedicated to it here.

🌯  Asian: Good Asian food can be hard to find in Merida. For sushi that isn’t cheap salmon smothered in cream cheese, the my long-time favourite is Miyabi (three locations across the city) where the fish is fresh and the quality is high. 

🌯 Outdoor Food Courts: Mercado 60 or Paseo 60 – both have outdoor dining and good live music. 

🐾 Find out which cafes in Mérida will welcome your fur baby here

Best places to drink in Merida

I’m not a big drinker … 😂🍹… ok ok I love a good drink but I tend to drink at home or on the beach with friends rather than in bars. However, over the years I’ve still collected a good knowledge base of some of the fun places to drink in Mérida:

🍸 La NegritaCasa ChicaHermana Republica, La Fundacion Mezcalaria(voted one of the best bars in the world at one time), Malahat – (a speakeasy on Parque Santa Lucia. You have to know where it is to find it!), Salón Gallos & the Bierhaus.

→ Enjoy the full MexicoCassie guide to drinking in Mexico

Day trips from Mérida

pink water, blue sky, cloud reflected into water

Merida is a fabulous location if you are planning on exploring Yucatán. There are good roads in every direction. I have written extensively about day trips from Merida so I will just include the highlights here.

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to renting cars and driving in Yucatán

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to day trips from Mérida

🔎 If you’re interested in archaeological sites near Merida then you have the pick of a dozen or so all within easy reach of the city. Remember, just because Chichén Itzá (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is super famous, it doesn’t mean it’s the only ruin worth visiting.

→ Use the MexicoCassie guide to the top ten ruins on the Yucatán Peninsula & the guide to all the ruins in Yucatán to plan where you’re going.

🤿 Many people visiting Mérida want to visit a cenote or two while in town. There are dozens to choose from.

→ Use the MexicoCassie guide to cenotes near Mérida to learn more, including where to find the only cenote truly suitable for people with reduced mobility.

→ Also available, the MexicoCassie guides to cenotes near Izamal, cenotes in Homun, cenotes for kids & nervous swimmers, cenotes near Valladolid and the best cenote tours from Mérida

🏖 The Costa Esmeralda (Emerald Coast), as the Yucatán Gulf of Mexico coast is called, is just gorgeous. The best beaches near Merida are not spoiled by mass tourism, they are gentle and offer a great deal of fun for everyone. 

→ Use the MexicoCassie guide to the best beaches in Yucatán to plan your beach day

🦩 If you like pink: Head to Celestun to take a boat trip to see the flamingos on the ría or to Las Coloradas to see the famous pink lakes & flamingos.

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to taking a day trip to Las Coloradas

💛 Izamal: It’s well worth leaving the famous ‘White City’ to visit the pueblo magico ‘Yellow City’ of Izamal, located halfway between Merida and Valladolid. It’s a perfect day trip or overnighter as the small city of Izamal has plenty to see and do for visitors including the famous convent and Maya archaeological sites. It’s possible to drive or to take public transport to Izamal from Merida but there are plenty of Izamal tours available too.

→ The MexicoCassie guides to Izamal and cenotes near Izamal will help you plan your Izamal adventure day

⭐️ Valladolid: Valladolid is the second-largest city in Yucatán and it’s a great place to base yourself in order to explore the east of the state, or you can visit for a  day or two from Mérida. It’s a lovely, gentle town with plenty of cultural activities and outdoor excursions on offer.

→ Use the MexicoCassie guide to Valladolid to plan your day.

📍 Haciendas: In Yucatan these old plantations are no longer producing henequen but instead tend to be beautifully restored hotels, restaurants, and places of interest. Some still have the old henequen machines lying around for you to see. Sotuta de Peon Hacienda has a fabulous tour that I highly recommend.

Notable Mérida dates

There are dates to keep in mind when planning your Mérida trip.

🎊 Merida Fest – Most of January is taken up with the Merida Fest. This is essentially a month-long birthday party for the city. There are hundreds of events that take place throughout this period, mostly free. Just be aware that the city is busy at this time as locals come out in droves to have fun and enjoy the party too.

🎡 Carnaval – Every February the city, like the rest of Mexico, hosts its own carnaval. Merida’s carnaval is mainly held out of town at the dedicated city fairground though the children’s parade remains in centro.There are free buses to and from the fairground.

🏝 Spring Break in Mérida – While Mérida isn’t really a “spring break destination”, there’s really no real reason for this. Spring break doesn’t have to mean parties and sex (although it can if that’s what you’re looking for). It can be culture, history and adventure too. I say, Yucatán and Mérida make a perfect spring break destination.

💀 Hanal Pixan In Merida – Hanal Pixan is the Maya name for ‘Día de Muertos‘, or ‘Day of the Dead’. It literally means ‘feeding the spirits’. It is celebrated overOctober 31 – November 2 but there are events in the lead up throughout October too. 

➡️ Read more about Hanal Pixan in Mérida

🐖 Chicharra Festival (Feria de la Chicharra, Xcalachén) – My personal favourite festival in Merida and it isn’t one many non-locals go to. Chicharra and castacan are pork belly and pork-scratchings so twice a year Merida holds a pork festival. Yum yum. It’s held in the south of the city in the traditional castacan cooking area. It’s also worth a trip to this part of town to check out the fabulous street art down here.

You’ll need to keep your ears to the ground for this one as it isn’t really for visitors but it’s well worth a visit for delicious local treats. It’s generally held in June and November.

🌸 Camino de las Flores, Parque de la Paz – This recent addition to Merida’s arsenal of festivals has proved so popular that it’s now held twice a year. The first display is generally around the end of April and the second in October.  It’s worth checking dates as, of course, this can change.

🎢 Yucatan State Fair – Every November, the state of Yucatan holds its annual fair down at the state fairground. As with the carnaval, there is free public transportation to take people to and from the fairground. If you’re interested in local livestock, shows, fairgrounds, shops and just generally having a fabulous day out with local people, I couldn’t recommend this more highly. 

Full list of the MexicoCassie Mérida guides



Cassie

Cassie is a British-born travel writer who lives in southern Spain. Prior to moving to Spain, Cassie and her family lived in Yucatán, Mexico for many years. Something of a self-confessed-all-round travel-nerd, Cassie has a deep love of adventure, and of learning as much as possible about every place visited. This blog is testament to that.

16 Comments

Emese · 10/05/2019 at 2:15 pm

Wow! This is a thorough guide to your lovely city! You covered everything I didn’t even know I should ask. Bookmarking it for my next time on the peninsula – yes, we’re planning on making it to Merida this time.

Cassie · 10/05/2019 at 2:22 pm

Thanks and hurrah!

Merryn · 10/05/2019 at 2:41 pm

I have been to Mexico many times, and I’ve always eyed Merida as a place to visit. Now, you’ve sold me on it! Thank you for this in-depth, well-written post – I know I’d love those markets (never met a market I didn’t like!)

Cassie · 10/05/2019 at 2:46 pm

What a lovely comment, thank you. Hope you make it here. It’s so easy to fall in love with Mérida.

Lori · 10/05/2019 at 4:46 pm

Great post Cassie! I can’t believe you live there. I can’t tell you how many years we thought of moving there after our first visit in 2006. We fell hard for it and had the best fun on a Friday night when the whole city seemed to come alive and dance!

Deb · 10/05/2019 at 5:43 pm

This is great! We really enjoy the free dancing almost every night of the week, at least during the months of January and February. One night we watched a police band–in uniforms– in the main plaza play great salsa music. Everyone was dancing, elders, whole families, teens! And the bike ride on Sunday morning, fabulous. Have you visited any of the cantinas? We found them very friendly and authentic, almost no tourists. And that’s why we love Merida.

Cassie · 10/05/2019 at 11:18 pm

Thanks! I have been to a few cantinas but not many since I don’t go out drinking so much any more. Small kids do that to a woman! Since I live here, most of my life is outside of areas tourists go. I have a pretty Mexican life a lot of the time.

Cassie · 10/05/2019 at 11:20 pm

Thanks Lori. It’s such a fabulous city and so easy to fall for. Hope you make it back.

Faith Coates · 11/05/2019 at 10:02 am

Lovely Merida, bici ruta, marquesitas (not the cheese and chocolate ones though), conchinita pibil. Don’t miss the heat do miss Merida though

Kay · 17/05/2019 at 8:27 pm

YESSS those food reccs look BOMBBB!!! Thanks!

Susanna · 18/05/2019 at 3:51 am

I can tell how much you love your home town, just by reading your post. It makes me happy to see people settling life abroad so well! You do a great job promoting it. I’ve always been bummed I haven’t been to Mexico, but it has always been a dream of mine. Merida sounds like it has lots of wonderful things to do, I would spend most of my time eating, shopping at the food markets for more food and photographing the vibrant colors!

Julie · 20/05/2019 at 2:25 pm

Such beautiful photos! I’ve always wanted to visit Merida, but for some reason we never have. I will have to put it on our itinerary for our next trip to Mexico! Thanks.

Cassie · 20/05/2019 at 4:26 pm

This is such a great place to visit. You won’t regret it. Let me know when you make it.

Pam Payer · 08/02/2020 at 7:30 am

Great article! We have been to Merida and look forward to going next month. Was the picture of the cowboy boots children’s boots? Where might I be able to shop for those?

Cassie · 08/02/2020 at 7:36 am

Thanks. The boots were at the fair. I’m not sure I’ve seen them generally around town, I’m afraid. Maybe in some of the villages were they make shoes you’ll find something like that.

Julia · 14/11/2024 at 7:22 am

Thanks for making this super thorough guide!

Comments are closed.