Introduction to Bahuichivo & Cerochaui

Without a doubt, although the Chepe train station is in Bahuichivo, it is to Cerochaui and the surrounding area that visitors look for accommodation and activities. As the owner of our hotel told me, Bahuichivo is simply a small town that grew up around the train station. It has little to offer visitors to the region.

⭐️ Bahuichivo is a small town 1,620m above sea level with a population of around 1,300. It’s a perfectly decent place to spend a few hours when waiting for the train. There are restaurants and small shops selling snacks.

⭐️ Cerochaui is apparently a ‘major population centre’ for the Raramuri population. It is considered both an important economic and cultural centre. It’s particularly renowned for the celebrations at Easter (Semana Santa) when the Raramuri congregate and celebrate.

The town is a slow 12km from Bahuichivo, and 1,624m above sea level. It also has a population also of around 1,300.

Where to stay around Bahuichivo & Cerochaui

Where to eat around Bahuichivo & Cerochaui

Hahaha.

🍽 Eat in your hotel/lodge. Seriously. We ate two meals a day in our lodge (breakfast and supper) and on the other days mainly just snacked on bits and pieces we took along with us.

On the day we walked from our lodge to Cerochaui we hoped we’d find a restaurant in the village. We did not.

We asked in a shop and were met with blank looks and then a ‘maybe on the plaza’ but the only restaurant on the plaza looked as if it hadn’t opened for a long time. We ended up buying cream cheese, bread and fruit from the shop and sitting on a bench to eat.

What to do around Bahuichivo & Cerochaui

This stunningly beautiful part of the Copper Canyon is probably best explored by car so be prepared to pay for your hotel tours if you arrive by train.

Mirador de Cerro de Gallego

Also known as Divisadero by locals (somewhat confusingly if you’ve just arrived from the actual Divisadero!) this is a spectacular look-out point that will blow your mind as you look out over the ‘Barranca de Urique’ (Urique Canyon – because remember, the Copper Canyon is actually a series of canyons). To reach this point, our guide told us, you pass through the highest part of the Copper Canyon at 4,000m to reach the lookout at 2,286m.

💰 There is a small fee to head up to the mirador but it’s not much. Be prepared with small bills.

Exploring Cerochaui

🐴 The village itself is incredibly quiet and sleepy. We took a stroll from our lodge all the way to the village. We walked through the village in about 15 minutes, stopping at the plaza to chill out (in the blazing midday sun), eat some lunch and check out the church before leaving.

I believe there’s a school for local Raramuri children but because we visited in summer it wasn’t open.

Cerochaui Waterfall

💦 You’ll need a guide to visit the waterfall as it’s about a 7km hike (one way) through the forest and you could easily get lost. We had a fun time marching through the forest, watching the animals, enjoying the flora and we truly welcomed the freezing cold water for a swim when we arrived, hot and sweaty, at the waterfall. There’s something quite spectacular about having a waterfall all to yourself (the pool is bigger and nicer than it looks in this photo).

Hunt for the cave

Just down the road from San Isidro, back towards Cerochaui, you’ll see a wide entrance to a wooded area. Hidden away behind two gates (one open, one often locked) is a small cave. Honestly, I wouldn’t say it was anything out of the ordinary but we spent a fun few hours, first searching for the gates, and then hanging out in a cave that is clearly sometimes used as a bar or as a party venue.

⭐️ It’s probably better to ask a local to help you here as we never found the gates on our own, but by chance stumbled upon the gatekeeper (is it chance when we actually marched up to his house?). There is a small fee to enter here.

Hiking

There is plenty of opportunity for walking and enjoying nature. I’d recommend talking to the hotel staff to find the best options for you.

Visiting Urique

🚗 It’s about a 2.5 – 3-hour drive to Urique from Cerochaui. You can take a tour there or get the local bus. which goes once a day in the late afternoon, I believe. The road is not paved, it winds around the mountains offering spectacular views but be prepared for ears to pop and for your heart to remain firmly in your mouth as you descend into the valley.

I have written a full article about Urique since we spent three days there but should you just wish to visit for one day, you’ll find that adequate. It’s a nice little place to walk around and there is a swimming pool complex at the far end of the village and the river runs behind the village. Because Urique does get tourists you’ll find a few restaurants.

⛔️ Do not expect tourist shops, or even any shops really. This is a tiny, tiny village that became famous thanks to the Caballo Blanco, the ultra-marathon and the Book ‘Born to Run‘ but other than that, there’s nothing here.

Adventure Parque, Divisadero

The Copper Canyon Adventure Park is where you’ll want to go for an adrenaline rush. It has a cable car, the world’s second longest zip-line, a zip-line adventure course, and much more. While it’s located near Divisadero, you can also reach it via car from Bahuichivo and Cerochaui.

→ You can read my full review of the adventure park here.

Batopilas

We had assumed we’d be able to visit Batopilas from Cerochaui. Technically it’s closer to Cerochaui than to Creel but the road between Creel and Batopilas is paved and safe whereas from Cerochaui it’s neither. Our guide from the hotel didn’t even countenance taking us, hence our not visiting.

Final notes to Bahuichivo & Cerocahui

👕 If you do stop here, it’s worth having decent walking shoes, raincoats and sweaters for the hills but then remember you’ll be in sweltering tropical valleys when you descend. It regularly snows in winter in the hills but never dips below hot hot hot in Urique! In the valleys, you’ll need mosquito repellent, suntan lotion and sunglasses.

💰 There are no cash machines in this area so come prepared with all the cash you’ll need (the last cash machine in the Copper Canyon is in Creel / El Fuerte depending on your direction of travel).

⭐️ As there are no restaurants except for at the lodges, if you are a snacker or picky eater, be sure to stop by the market before heading to Bahuichivo.