Bahuichivo and Cerochaui: Everything You Need To Know (2024)

Published by Cassie on

how long do i need in the copper canyon

Planning to stop by Bahuichivo and Cerochaui on your Copper Canyon adventure? Here’s everything you need to know about visiting these two tiny towns!

Truly, exploring Bahuichivo and Cerochaui in the Copper Canyon comes highly recommended if you love awe-inspiring views, long walks, wondrous thunderstorms and friendly people. We chose to spend five days in this area rather than the usual one or two because we were deliberately taking things slow: we wanted to spend as much time in the region as we could. We didn’t regret our time here one bit.

view down into a valley, river winding through

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Introduction To Bahuichivo And Cerochaui

Without a doubt, although the Chepe train station is in Bahuichivo, it is to Cerochaui and the surrounding area that visitors look for accommodation and activities. As the owner of our hotel told me, Bahuichivo is simply a small town that grew up around the train station. It has little to offer visitors to the region.

Bahuivhichivo is a small town 1,620m above sea level with a population of around 1,300. It’s a perfectly decent place to spend a few hours when waiting for the train. There are restaurants and small shops selling snacks.

view of fields with hills in disance

Cerochaui is apparently a ‘major population centre’ for the Raramuri population. It is considered both an important economic and cultural centre. It’s particularly renowned for the celebrations at Easter (Santa Semana) when the Raramui congregate and celebrate.

The town is a slow 12km from Bahuichivo, (this is what the internet tells me. I seem to remember signage claiming the same thing although it certainly felt much further as roads are small and winding) and 1,624m above sea level. It also has a population also of around 1,300.

What To Do Around Bahuichivo and Cerochaui

This stunningly beautiful part of the Copper Canyon is probably best explored by car so be prepared to pay for your hotel tours if you arrive by train.

Mirador de Cerro de Gallego

metal bridge, chicken wire sides, small boy in blue crossing

Also known as Divisadero by locals (somewhat confusingly if you’ve just arrived from the actual Divisadero!) this is a spectacular look-out point that will blow your mind as you look out over the ‘Barranca de Urique’ (Urique Canyon – because remember, the Copper Canyon is actually a series of canyons). To reach this point, our guide told us, you pass through the highest part of the Copper Canyon at 4,000m to reach the lookout at 2,286m.

Our kids loved the bridges over sheer drops more than we did but we enjoyed marvelling at the vista while they played games and ran around.

There is a small fee to head up to the Mirador but it’s not much. Be prepared with small bills.

Cerochaui Waterfall

man and child sitting in front of small waterfall

You’ll need a guide to visit the waterfall as it’s about a 7km hike (one way) through the forest and you could easily get lost. We had a fun time marching through the forest, watching the animals, enjoying the flora and we truly welcomed the freezing cold water for a swim when we arrived, hot and sweaty, at the waterfall. There’s truly something quite spectacular about having a waterfall all to yourself (the pool is bigger and nicer than it looks in this photo).

Hunt For The Cave

boy running around forest, fallen trunk next to him

Just down the road from San Isidro and Wilderness Lodges, back towards Cerochaui, you’ll see a wide entrance to a wooded area. Hidden away behind two gates (one open, one often locked) is a small cave. Honestly, I wouldn’t say it was anything out of the ordinary but we spent a fun few hours, first searching for the gates, and then hanging out in a cave that is clearly sometimes used as a bar or as a party venue. We took snacks and water and the kids played for hours while we sat and chatted. It’s probably better to ask a local to help you here as we never found the gates on our own, but by chance stumbled upon the gatekeeper (is it chance when we actually marched up to his house?). There is a small fee to enter here.

Cerochaui

man and two children sitting on bench outside peach coloured building, church behind them

The village itself is incredibly quiet and sleepy. We took a stroll from our lodge all the way to the village. The lodge owners thought we were insane but then they also didn’t tell us it was 12km when we asked how far it was (there’s no internet at Wilderness Lodge so we couldn’t check for ourselves). We walked through the village in about 15 minutes, stopping at the plaza to chill out (in the blazing midday sun), eat some lunch and check out the church before leaving.

I believe there’s a school for local Raramuri children but because we visited in summer it wasn’t open.

Walks

There is plenty of opportunity for walking and enjoying nature. I’d recommend talking to the hotel staff to find the best options for you.

Visiting Urique

It’s about a 2.5 – 3-hour drive to Urique from Cerochaui. You can take a tour there or get the local bus. which goes once a day in the late afternoon, I believe. The road is not paved, it winds around the mountains offering spectacular views but be prepared for ears to pop and for your heart to remain firmly in your mouth as you descend into the valley.

misty photo into valley, winding path

I have written a full article about Urique since we spent three days there but should you just wish to visit for one day, you’ll find that adequate. It’s a nice little place to walk around and there is a swimming pool complex at the far end of the village and the river runs behind the village. Because Urique does get tourists you’ll find a few restaurants. We particularly enjoyed the Restaurant India Bonita. The food was good (emphatically not Indian, definitely a Mexican restaurant) and the staff very friendly. Do not expect tourist shops, or even any shops really. This is a tiny, tiny village that became famous thanks to the Caballo Blanco, the ultra-marathon and the Book ‘Born to Run‘ but other than that, there’s nothing here.

Adventure Parque, Divisadero

The Copper Canyon Adventure Park is where you’ll want to go for an adrenaline rush. It has a cable car, the world’s second longest zipline, a zipline adventure course, and much more. While it’s located near Divisadero, you can also reach it via car from Bahuichivo and Cerochaui. You can read my full review of the adventure park here.

Batopilas

We had assumed we’d be able to visit Batopilas from Cerochaui. Technically it’s closer to Cerochaui than to Creel but the road between Creel and Batopilas is paved and safe whereas from Cerochaui it’s neither. Our guide from the hotel didn’t even countenance taking us, hence our not visiting.

Where To Stay Around Bahuichivo And Cerochaui

Honestly, options are pretty limited. It is unusual for visitors to the area to stay in Bahuichivo town. Apparently, the few hotels I did see as we passed through are more for Chepe staff and miners moving materials around than for visitors.

All hotels around here offer pick up and return to the train station, unlike hotels in Urique that do not unless you specifically request it. All hotels here also offer full-board because there really is no other option for finding food. All hotels will offer similar tours of the area.

Do note that you may be expected to pay cash for your stay if you don’t book online, through a booking site so it’s probably easier to book online, in advance.

Hotel Mision

In Cerochaui itself there is one hotel, Hotel Mision, Cerochaui. It’s right on the square next to the church. We went inside briefly and found the staff to be incredibly helpful and kind (we basically needed a favour and they went out of their way to help us) and the hotel itself is beautiful and tranquil.

Paraiso del Oso

Paraiso del Oso is located between Bahuichivo and Cerochaui and one of the highest-rated properties in the area. It’s a family-run lodge that offers clean, comfortable accommodations.

Rancho Cabañas San Isidro

Rancho Cabañas San Isidro is located along the road towards Urique. It’s a beautiful-looking place and I love that the tour cars have seats on the roof for a truly exhilarating (terrifying?) ride. My parents stayed here and loved it. They tell me that it was very professionally run by a lovely family. The guide speaks English and the food was good. There is a temezcal on site. The cost of staying here includes three meals and a trip into Cerochaui. My crazy parents thoroughly enjoyed riding on the top of the car!

View prices and availability on all hotels in Cerochaui here.

2023 Update: A previous version of this post recommended Wilderness Lodge, which has unfortunately closed since.

sunset over hills, small fence in foreground

Where To Eat Around Bahuichivo And Cerochaui

Hahaha.

Eat in your hotel/lodge. Seriously. We ate two meals a day in our lodge (breakfast and supper) and on the other days mainly just snacked on bits and pieces we took along with us.

On the day we walked from our lodge to Cerochaui we hoped we’d find a restaurant in the village. We did not.

We asked in a shop and were met with blank looks and then a ‘maybe on the plaza’ but the only restaurant on the plaza looked as if it hadn’t opened for a long time. We ended up buying cream cheese, bread and fruit from the shop and sitting on a bench to eat.

Final Notes To Bahuichivo and Cerocahui

To find out more about Chepe and wait times for the train, follow this link to my article all about taking the train through the Copper Canyon.

If you do stop here, it’s worth having decent walking shoes, raincoats and sweaters for the hills but then remember you’ll be in sweltering tropical valleys when you descend. It regularly snows in winter in the hills but never dips below hot hot hot in Urique! In the valleys, you’ll need mosquito repellent, suntan lotion and sunglasses.

There are no cash machines in this area so come prepared with all the cash you’ll need (the last cash machine in the Copper Canyon is in Creel / El Fuerte depending on your direction of travel).

As there are no restaurants except for at the lodges, if you are a snacker or picky eater, be sure to stop by the market before heading to Bahuichivo.

More Copper Canyon Towns

If you’re continuing your journey on the El Chepe Express, you’ll want to check out these other Copper Canyon towns!

🌎 Chihuahua City  – If you begin or end your El Chepe Express journey in Creel, consider adding a night or two in Chihuahua City before flying out. The state capital may surprise you!

🌎 Urique – If you want to spend a day or two doing relaxing, the small town of Urique is the place to do it.

🌎 Creel – One of the biggest and most popular stops along the Copper Canyon, Creel is a great place to spend several days. There are plenty of easy day trips from here, as well as activities in the town itself.

🌎 Divisadero – where you stay to be close to the Copper Canyon Adventure Park

🌎 El Fuerte – Typically the first stop after leaving Los Mochis or the final stop of your trip, El Fuerte is a small town worth spending a few nights in.

If you’re wondering what to pack for a trip to this area, then follow this link to a packing list.


Cassie

Cassie is a British-born travel writer who lives in southern Spain. Prior to moving to Spain, Cassie and her family lived in Yucatán, Mexico for many years. Something of a self-confessed-all-round travel-nerd, Cassie has a deep love of adventure, and of learning as much as possible about every place visited. This blog is testament to that.

4 Comments

Nancie · 31/08/2018 at 9:45 pm

I’m thinking of spending some time in Mexico this winter, and I definitely want to see the Cooper Canyon. I like slow travel, too, so I’ll definitely hang out in this area for more than a day or two. Not sure I want to live without an Internet connection, so hopefully I can stay somewhere that offers wifi.

    Cassie · 31/08/2018 at 10:01 pm

    Oooh I so want to see it the canyon in the snow. If you get there let me know.

Randy king · 27/01/2019 at 2:26 pm

I love your post but am confused on stops on the train for the hotels
Rancho cabin San isidor stop on train at Cerocahui or bahuichivo.
Going from El Fuerte to Creel on regional train .

Thanks

    Cassie · 27/01/2019 at 2:28 pm

    There isn’t a stop called cerochaui. You get off at bahuichivo and drive. It’s about 15km. Hope that helps.

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