Your expert guide to fabulous things to do in Progreso, Mexico

Published by Cassie on

The gorgeous coastal town of Progreso in Yucatán, welcomes a diverse selection of visitors: cruise ship visitors who come in for a day or two, snowbirds escaping the cold of northern North America, backpackers, foreign and Mexican visitors who flock to the region over Semana Santa and during the summer months. 

After spending years living just down the road in Mérida, I’ve had plenty of time to explore Progreso and discover what’s so special about this port city and I’m excited to share it with you herre. 

What’s special about Progreso?

Progreso written in large letters on beach. people milling around the letters. Setting sun shining through the first O

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On a first visit, Progreso might not feel special but I promise you it is. It’s laid back, the water is gorgeous, and there’s a good amount to do in town and further afield. I’m a huge Progreso fan.

🏝 Costa Esmerelda 

The north Yucatán coast, where Progreso is located, is famously known as the ‘Costa Esmerelda’ or the ‘Emerald Coast’ due to its gorgeous and gentle green waters.

Unlike the beaches of Playa del Carmen and Tulum, this region very rarely sees any sargassum, instead. For pure natural beauty, I’m a big fan of this part of the Yucatán coast. There’s nothing like a sunset walk and meal on the beach here.

🎣 Small fishing town vibes

Progreso is home to the world’s longest pier and there are regularly huge cruise ships dropping off their multitudes but if you’re there when the cruise ships aren’t, it’s still a delightfully chilled out, relaxing place where you can explore the local market, relax in one of the beach clubs or stroll along the beach. It has a gorgeous laid back feel to it.

➕ Progreso is definitely one of the most family friendly beaches in Mexico thanks to its generally calm, shallow waters

→ Read the MexicoCassie article on safety in Yucatán

♿️ Accessible beach

Progreso is home to the first inclusive beach in Yucatán, which makes it a great option if you or your companions are not so mobile – 5 amphibious chairs are available to help water entry and there are staff trained to accompany you into the water via moveable rubber ramps. Access this service via the official Progreso FB page or via WhatsApp – +52 999 199 9061. There are also wheelchair-accessible public toilets and ramps to the boardwalk and beach.

➕ Did you know there’s a fully accessible cenote in Yucatán too?

🌮 Great food

There are some great restaurants in Progreso, and the street-food is also delish so don’t miss out on yummy snacks as you explore. I love nothing more than a big plate of shrimp tacos and a michelada on the beach. Mmmmm, ¡qué rico!

→ If you’re travelling with kids, be sure to open up the MexicoCassie guide to feeding kids in Mexico to take the stress out of mealtimes

If you just want to know what to do in Progreso, click here to skip the information about getting to Progreso, when to visit and where to stay.

Getting to/from Progreso

The town of Progreso is located on the north coast of the Yucatán Peninsula. It’s one of Mexico’s most popular cruise ship stops. 

🚗 Progreso is a 30 minute drive from the north of Mérida or a little longer if you’re coming from Mérida’s Centro Historico. There are regular buses and colectivos running between the two cities and you can also pick up a cab in either direction.

🚗 Check out rental car costs & options

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to renting cars and driving in Yucatán

Where to stay in Progreso

🏨 MexicoCassie recommended all-round winner – Hotel Yaxactun. A modern hotel with an outdoor pool, high standards of cleanliness and coffee provision in every room, this is a great option for your stay in Progreso.

Book to stay at Hotel Yaxactun now

🏨 MexicoCassie recommended budget beach access – Playa Linda Hotel. Average rates are well under $100 and the property is beachfront. There’s a reason it’s one of the top-rated hotels in Progreso!

Book to stay at Playa Linda Hotel now

🏨 MexicoCassie recommended self-catering gem – Playa Chacá. A gorgeous self-catering condo set one block back from the beach. Includes salt-water pool, well equipped kitchen, A.C & sea views from the balcony.

Book to stay at Playa Chacá now

🗺 If none of these quite suit your needs, use the MexicoCassie interactive accommodation map to find what you’re looking for.

🐾 If you’re hoping to find pet friendly hotels, there are a few excellent hotels we recommend around the state. 

When to visit Progreso

little girl in pink standing in front of clear green sea, blue sky

Progreso is always gorgeous, over spring break, in mid July when it’s baking hot and even on a wintry January day. 

🔆 For me, the best time of year to visit Progreso is between December – March because the weather is good but it’s too cold for most people to want to hang out all day. But, be warned that Progreso fills up with snowbirds over these months so accommodation can be more expensive so be sure to reserve your hotel well in advance.

☀️ From April it’s definitely hot in Progreso and by July, the rains will arrive, meaning regular (but not every day) rainstorms.

💨 In October the “Norte” winds can start to come in bringing windy, cooler weather. These winds can be strong enough to close the ports and suspend fishing trips but they’re also often seen as a relief from the heat. Norte winds are a part of life, some bring rain, others do not.

⭐️ If you’re visiting with kids then our Mexico with kids packing list will come in handy. 

Things to do in Progreso

Whether you’re visiting Progreso for a day or staying for six months, you’ll always be able to find something to do.

🛳 If you’re coming in for the day off a cruise ship, you may wish to hire a local guide to show you around. Your cruise line will probably offer some options but I recommend you can check out GetYourGuide & Viator to see what else is on offer because his will, for sure be cheaper than booking through your cruise company and the local guides are well accustomed to working with cruise ship vistors.

🏝 Explore the Progreso beaches

view of a near empty beach at dusk, sky has white clouds tinged with pink

Of course, the most obvious thing to do in Progreso is hang out on the beach. You can choose between plopping your towel down in the sun, renting a palapa (thatched umbrella), sitting in a beachside restaurant or enjoying the highlife in a beach club.

Progreso’s beach is long, so how do you know where to go?

↔️ If you start in Progreso town, the beach can be split easily into ‘to the right of the piers’ and ‘to the left of the piers’.

There are three piers in Progreso: 

Muelle de Pescadores 

Muelle de Chocolate 

Muelle Fiscal – this is the main Progreso pier, where the cruise ships dock.

⚡️ A stormy note: in 2024, Hurricane Milton wreaked some severe damage in Progreso, particularly along the Malecon Internacional and the Muelle de Chocolate.

One of my favourite things to do in Progreso is to sit on the Muelle de Pescadores around dusk watching the locals fishing, the pelicans waiting for their catch and the sun setting. 

🏖 Playa de Progreso – from the piers with the sea on your left
beach, palm trees, small red tourist train

To your left when walking along the malecon (boardwalk) between the piers and the Progreso letters (approximately 1km walk) is the primary beach area of Progreso. In the summer this beach is thronging with people; restaurants have their palapas and tables out, small shops set up, massages are offered. In the winter months it is much calmer. 

Look out for the cute little tourist train that choo-choos its way along the promenade.

⭐️ One of my favourite activities in Progreso is to sit quietly on the sand and watch the pelicans fly low over the water. I don’t think I could ever get bored with this marvel. And, if you’re lucky, flamingos will join them, too.

🏖 Playa Playón – from the piers with the sea on your right
statue of posiden in shallow water with blue sky behind

To the left of the piers you can walk along the Malecon Internacional. Here you’ll find various sculptures,  play areas for little kids and one for bigger kids, a carousel, and plenty of snacking options. Down on the beach there’s even a giant Poseiden to find (see above).

⚠️ Take note

💨 The wind regularly picks up in the afternoon on the Yucatan coast. If you are at all concerned, mornings are generally a better bet for swimming as it is calmer.

In the colder months you may well see numerous Portuguese Man O’Wars on the beaches. Steer well clear and make sure your kids & dogs do too. The sting can be nasty.

Beach clubs

If you don’t fancy sitting on a public beach there are numerous beach club options in and around Progreso. It’s generally a good idea to reserve your spot in advance.

Silcer Beach Club – here you can grab an all-inclusive day pass and enjoy hanging out in Progreso.

El HaGuay – this is a ‘cool’ spot with a small pool on-site, a good restaurant, a hammock area and a nice beach space. It’s away from the noise and bustle of the main Progreso beach area down by the town’s Progreso letters.

Marymar – just by the piers, this is another good option for a central beach club. There’s a pool, a nice bar & restaurant, Instagram friendly swings and plenty of loungers.

Kokomo – Not in Progreso but down the road in San Bruno is this very popular beach club that offers day passes that include transport. The club has a restaurant, loungers, pool, beach access, paddleboards & kayaks.

TecnoHotel – a long time laid back no frills favourite of mine, this hotel offers a nice day pass for their beach club. There is a nice restaurant, pool, loungers and plenty of space.

Visit nearby beaches

Cassie sitting in front of an I heart Chelem sign (red heart), sea behind

It’s worth remembering that ALL beaches in Mexico are public beaches, meaning you can access any beach you wish. In reality, though, some of those beaches can be hard to get to, because hotels and homes may have been built to prevent that access.

🏝 Heading west, after Progreso, you reach Yucalpeten, where the beach is a bit wider, less built up and just stunning. From Yucalpeten you move into Chelem where many snowbirds like to make their home in the winter. Chelem turns into Chuburna, which ends in Chuburna Puerto and my favourite beach in this entire stretch.

🐷 Pig Beach, by the way, is permanently closed and the pigs have gone.

The Isla Columpios is a recent addition to the north Yucatan stretch of beach – come kayak or be toured around the area in a small boat (lancha) with your drinks & picnics. Enjoy relaxing on the small islands and water swings.

🏝 Heading eastProgreso turns into Chicxulub Puerto where the epicentre of the dinosaur-killing meteor is marked with an unassuming but worth seeing plaque. There is a Sendero Jurasico (Dinosaur Walk) just outside the entrance to Chicxulub Puerto and there is a dinosaur by the Chicxulub Puerto pier. 

From Chicxulub Puerto you drive along the coastal road passing houses and small villas/hotels until you hit Telchac Puerto and San Crisanto, where you’ll find also beautiful beaches.

Further east are San FelipeLas Coloradas and El Cuyo beaches. There is no coastal road that goes this far though so heading inland and back out again is the only way to reach these gorgeous beaches.

Water activities in Progreso

girl in orange tshirt in front of kayak facing away from camera, paddle across lap. Brownish water and green bushes

Paddleboarding

There are plenty of paddleboard tour options from Progreso, whether you’re excited by mangrove exploration or a workout on the sea.

🏄🏾‍♀️ I love paddleboarding in the mangroves at sunrise – this 2 hour tour is suitable for beginners & kids as well as more experienced paddle boarders. Head for the mangroves, and enjoy watching nature awake as you paddle through the mangrove canals.

read more about awesome paddleboard fun

Kitesurfing

🪁 Kitesurfing is a popular sport along the Yucatán coast, take a lesson with an expert while you’re in Progreso – I have friends who do it here but I am way too much of a wimp for this particular sport.

read more about kitesurfing in Progreso

🍌 Banana boats

Down by the piers on the beach there are banana boat rides offered. According to the sign, it costs $150 peso per person to take a ride.

What else to do in Progreso

Meteorite Museum

model of a winged dinosaur against white walls, sea in background

In 2022, this museum opened its doors to the public. It’s a small museum that is explored as part of an informative tour (English is possible if you ask when you buy tickets) through the history of evolution and extinction. There are meteorite rocks you can touch, fossils to admire, and some very cool immersive video experiences. I’ve read some fairly rude reviews of the museum but I think it’s quite a good thing to do when you’re in Progreso, but personally, I enjoyed it and I did learn some cool information about the history of the region. 

🌟 On the way to Chuburna there’s the Museo de Ciencias Chicxulub but this is only open to guided tours booked in advance (send a WhatsApp to get details – 0052 990 157 8695)


Shopping for souvenirs

small beach hut attached to building - shop selling souvenirs

It’s always fun to explore the markets wherever you are, and the Progreso mercado municipal is nice – there are a few tourist shops outside. All along the beach front you’ll find numerous small souvenir shops and market stands, where everyone is very friendly.

Admire the street art

street art painting of Frida Kahlo with butterflies around her - tables and chairs in front of painting

Like so many places in Mexico, Progreso is beautifully decorated with street art. Find Callejon de Amor and around Calle 80 where it hits the beach in particular.

Beach Snacks

blue food stand in front of beach, wooden steps on to beach

🍿 Across the entire Progreso beach area you’ll find both stationary and mobile street food sellers offering esquites (corn), marquesitas, and more.

🍿 Don’t miss out on the fresh coconut options that include, flan, ice cream, pie and of course, drinking straight from the coconut.

🍿 You must try a sweet snack from the candy trays that are walked up and down the beaches. Generally everything costs the same amount and you’re extremely unlikely to be given a ‘foreigner’ price.

Activities further afield

🤿 Swim in local cenotes

Green water cenote surrounded by tall trees

Reserva Ecológica el Corchito are the closest cenotes to Progreso.

El Corchito is an ecological reserve on mainland side of the estuary. To get there you take a small boat from the little jetty. The boat takes you across the water and into a little side inlet. This journey takes five minutes. Once on the other side be ready to be pleasantly surprised.

Here you find three small, open, cenotes where you can swim and play. All three cenotes are less than 2.5m deep. The first, cenote El Corchito, was probably my favourite as we had it all to ourselves. The second is much smaller (Cenote Venado) and shallower. The third, Cenote Pajaros, is the largest of them all.

🔎 Explore archaeological sites

Cassie sitting on the lowest level of the 4 step pyramid

Xcambo is the closest of the ancient Maya ruins to Progreso. It’s also a sneaky favourite of mine, because we generally have the entire place to ourselves when we are there, which, of course, is always awesome.

The settlement was an important trading centre – sending salt and salt-fish off to Chichén Itzá and Izamal during its heyday of around 300-600 CE.

The nearby pink salt flats are an absolute delight as is the high chance of seeing flamingos as you drive through here.

Do note that the mosquitoes can be ferocious, take plenty of repellant.

flamingos in water

👣 Book this fabulous trip to Xcambo that includes time at the ruin, seeing the flamingos and pink salt flats of Xtampu.

Dzibilchaltun is another Maya site that is easy to visit from Progreso as it’s on the way into Merida. It is a popular Progreso excursion offered by cruise ships. The House of the Dolls is the famous building here and if you’re around over the summer solstice you can join others in gathering to watch the sun pass behind the temple window at dawn. It’s also believed to be one of the oldest Maya buildings still standing.

Note that at time of writing, Dzibilchaltun is open but it does sometimes close to visitors – always check before booking.

two blonde kids in front of the dolls' house Maya building. blue sky, dry ground

👣 Book this fabulous trip to Dzibilchaltun that includes a stop at a beach club after.

🦩 Laguna Rosada

laguna rosada with traditional baskets in front

Head from Progreso towards Xcambó, you will turn off along the Dzemul – Xtampu bridge where you’ll immediately notice that you’re surrounded by pink water (varying pinks depending on the time of year(. Right by the turning to this bridge are the Charcas de Sal (Salt Ponds). You can pull over here and walk around. The ancient Maya mined their salt here and the nearby Maya archaeological site (Xcambo) was known to be an important site due to its proximity to the salt supplies.

​Once you’re done marvelling at the salt,  and maybe even buying some, drive on, slowly, looking out for the gorgeously pink flamingos. Pull  over on the side of the road and just enjoy the sights, everyone does.

👣 Book this day trip to Xcambo that includes time at the ruin, seeing the flamingos and pink salt flats of Xtampu.

→ This is a good alternative to the more famous (and bigger) Pink Salt Lakes at Las Coloradas if you don’t have time to travel further afield.

🛶 Kayak in the mangroves (Sayachaltún Nature Reserve)

With local eco-tourism group Sayachaltún, you can hire kayaks or small lanchas (with or without guides) and enjoy paddling around the water or even head into the mangroves for an awesome water-adventure. The food is also good here so be sure to make time for lunch.

Day trips from Progreso

If you’re using Progreso as a base for your vacation you may wish to take day trips around the state & the peninsula. There are too many great options to include here so we’ll just look at a few and I’ll direct you to the rest of my blog for more information.

Because Progreso is a small town, the selection of organised day trips away from the beach is limited. You’ll be best off either renting your own car or heading into Mérida to pick up tours. I use Viator & GetYourGuide to find my own tours always as they give access to local guides.

Cities to explore

Mérida – the capital of Yucatán, this gorgeous colonial city is full of museums, great restaurants, shopping & more.

→ Read the comprehensive MexicoCassie guide to exploring Mérida

Valladolid – the second city of Yucatán, this is a smaller colonial city that holds a great deal of charm. There’s a giant cenote in the centre and the foodie scene here is a delight.

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to exploring Valladolid

Izamal – known as the Yellow City, is one of my favourite Pueblo Magicos in the Yucatan. It’s a pretty easy day trip from Merida, which means it’s also easily accessible from Progreso. In fact, it’s probably one of the easiest pueblo magicos you can visit from Progreso. Well worth the drive!

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to Izamal

Motul – also a pueblo magico, visit Motul to eat Huevos Motuleños, a super popular and delicious breakfast plate that comes from Motul, just down the road from Progreso. This small town has a fascinating history and is well worth an hour or two of your time.

Chichén Itzá – of course, you can’t come to Yucatán and not take a day to see the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Chichén Itzá (organised tour or self-driven) one of the seven modern wonders of the world, from Progreso. Be sure to pick yourself an excellent cenote to relax in after. 

→ For other day trip options, do check out the MexicoCassie guide to day trips from Mérida as they’re essentially the same.

⭐️ Check our ready made Yucatan Itineraries ⭐️

🚗 1 week in Yucatan

🚗 10 days in Yucatan

🚗 Off-the-beaten-track in Yucatan

🚗 2 weeks exploring Yucatán

➕ Read the MexicoCassie guide to renting cars and driving in Yucatán

⭐️ Is Mérida worth visiting? – check the answer to this question now!

⭐️ Read up on the Maya Train Route to see if it’s something you could enjoy



Cassie

Cassie is a British-born travel writer who lives in southern Spain. Prior to moving to Spain, Cassie and her family lived in Yucatán, Mexico for many years. Something of a self-confessed-all-round travel-nerd, Cassie has a deep love of adventure, and of learning as much as possible about every place visited. This blog is testament to that.

9 Comments

Gemma · 07/07/2018 at 3:10 pm

Such a nice area, is the water pink all year round?

Cassie · 07/07/2018 at 10:04 pm

As far as I know, yes.

Nicky · 08/07/2018 at 3:12 am

This looks wonderful! I’ve always fancied visiting Mexico, but not for the resort-y type stuff – I’d love to check out the archaeological sites, and I’d love to see flamingos in the wild, so this has really put this area on my radar. I’ll be checking out the rest of your site, too!

Cassie · 08/07/2018 at 11:10 am

Great! Mexico is an incredible place and you won’t regret a trip here! Let me know if you have any questions .

Cassie · 14/08/2018 at 9:11 am

Well there are palapas on the beaches in town and people regularly come up selling things. A few times I’ve seen musicians along the beach, yes. But I tend to go out of Progreso for my beach activity as I like the quieter beaches so I’m not 100% guaranteeing musicians. You won’t lack for music in Mexico though!

william wright · 14/08/2018 at 2:04 pm

Many years while working the oil rigs in the Gulf of Campeche, spent many sunday afternoons enjoying the beach bars with mariachi bands near Dos Bocas. I am wondering if the any similar happenings today.
We are planning a family Christmas there this year. enjoying your blog.

Faith Coates · 20/07/2019 at 6:42 am

I remember it well, sitting beachside enjoying a huge freaking margarita while all the tourists stream of the cruise ships. Some fabulous little restaurants there as well on the back streets. Oh and trippin of an evening down to Faces to hear some diabolically good music. I do miss it and our weekly trips into the Mercado but I don’t miss the damned heat and humidity lol.

Jennifer · 07/08/2019 at 4:04 pm

Do you have any drivers that you recommend to see the above things for group of 3 girls. We are coming in on a cruise so need pick up on the pier. Thank you

Cassie · 07/08/2019 at 5:51 pm

Hmmmm. I don’t, I’m afraid.

Comments are closed.