Your expert guide to visiting El Cuyo, Yucatán

Published by Cassie on

green text box: Your expert guide to enjoying El Cuyo, Yucatán. 4 photos - 1 of a close up of street art face with leaves in front of it, 1 of beach taken from over the water, 1 cocktail glass and 1 beach at sunset

Without a doubt, the little village of El Cuyo is home to one of the most gorgeous beaches in Yucatán. It’s also home to a surprisingly excellent foodie scene and some really cool street art. This combination of gorgeous coast and incredible restaurants make it, in my opinion, a really great spot for a few days of utter tranquility. If you’ve ever wondered what Tulum was like 25 years ago, El Cuyo might just answer that question.

This article will help you figure out where to stay, where to eat & what to do when you’re in El Cuyo.

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🧭 Where is El Cuyo?

MexicoCassie, arms outstretched in front of the El Cuyo letters at dusk

El Cuyo is a small village on the north Yucatán coast, not far from the Yucatán-Quintana Roo state line.

It is within located within the biosphere reserve, the Parque Natural Rìo Lagartos, along with the villages of Las Coloradas, and Río Lagartos.

If you look at Google Maps you’ll see that it’s really not super easily accessible at all, thanks to the estuary that all but cuts off the village from everywhere else. This both adds to its feeling of isolation and is why people refer to it as a hidden gem. It’s definitely not unknown, but it is hard to get to.

How to get to El Cuyo

🚗 Driving

If you’re coming from, Mérida or Valladolid, you’ll need to drive toward Tizimin and then Colonia Yucatan before turning off to El Cuyo (believe me, do not go via Dzonot Carretero – here you will find yourself on a dirt road at times).

From Cancun or Playa del Carmen, follow the main road until you reach the caseta de cobro El Tintal (this is a toll booth) and then turn off towards Colonia Yucatan and El Cuyo.

🚌 Public transport

If you don’t have your own car then you’ll have to use public transportation to get to El Cuyo. Wherever you’re coming from this will mean at least two buses: from wherever you are to Tizimin  or Colonia Yucatán and then a smaller bus from there. Note that timetables change regularly.

🚝 The Maya train doesn’t go to El Cuyo but it does stop in Valladolid, if you’re a train enthusiast, you could take the train to Valladolid and then jump on buses or hire a driver to get you to El Cuyo.

→ Check ADO bus timetables on busbud now (smaller buses are called colectivos and don’t run according to a timetable)

* If you’re worried about your safety now that you’re aware how isolated this small place is, stop right now. Yucatán is Mexico’s safest state and there is nothing to worry about in this small fishing village. 

Where to stay in El Cuyo

There are some lovely hotel options in El Cuyo but it’s not a place to go expecting top notch facilities , perfect Wi-fi or the best water pressure in the world – remember, it’s a small village in a a biosphere

🏨  MexicoCassie top recommended hotel: Casa Mate Beach Front Cabañas – whether you’re travelling with your kids, with a partner or friends (or, of course, alone), these AC equipped bungalows on the beach are a great option. You can choose between an all-inclusive or breakfast only option.

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🏨 MexicoCassie recommended best value hotel: Mero Mero – for great value this hotel, just metres from the beach is a true value winner. The rooftop terrace and pool offer incredible views over the beach and sunset. The rooms are spacious and nicely appointed and, of course, have AC.

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🏨 MexicoCassie recommended hotel for a romantic get away: Xtambaa Cabins and Spa

This adult only hotel in El Cuyo offers gorgeous and quirky cabins with incredibly comfortable beds, pools. Breakfast is included and the beach is nearby. 

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🗺 If these recommendations aren’t quite what you’re hoping for, use the MexicoCassie interactive hotel map to find your perfect accommodation.

🐾 MexicoCassie recommended Best for Pets: Casa Mía (as featured in the MexicoCassie 10 best pet-friendly hotels in Yucatán article)

🗓 How long do I need in El Cuyo?

turquoise water, white sand, palm trees, blue sky with clouds

El Cuyo is great for a day trip or for a longer stay of a few days if you have time and want to enjoy yourself in this tiny town. In my opinion, El Cuyo is one of the best places to visit on the Yucatán Peninsula so I’d probably stay as long as possible.

🔆 When is the best time to visit El Cuyo?

Really this depends on what you’re looking for. It can get very busy with Mexican visitors over Semana Santa (spring break) & in the summer when its beach is obviously at its absolute best. I’ve visited twice, once when it was bakingly hot day in late spring/early summer, and once in December when it was cool weather. Both were fantastic, for different reasons. When it was hot we spent all our time in the water and frolicking on the sand. In the winter it was too cold to swim but we enjoyed walks on the beach and checking out all the great restaurants in town. 

🌮 Where to eat in El Cuyo

shack restaurant with rainbow decoration above, signs out front and tables to right

Be mindful that El Cuyo looks very much as if it’s on the cusp of sudden growth & change – yes enjoy the foreign owned places but also please don’t ignore the local options or they’ll be priced out of their own village

→ If you’re travelling with kids, be sure to open up the MexicoCassie guide to feeding kids in Mexico to take the stress out of mealtimes

La Playita – a beachside shack (above) selling local seafood and beers to enjoy on the beach.

El Tiburon – representing the delicious Yucatán beach food, El Tiburon serves up excellent & tasty fish tacos, prawns and breaded fish that will make everyone’s tummies happy.  

Cocina Economica El Amigo Omar – good traditional local food like your mom would make if she were Yucatecan. 

Naia Cafe – a long time favourite of visitors to El Cuyo, here you can enjoy healthy dishes, both Mexican and European in style. Particularly recommended for breakfasts.

El Chile Gordo – facing the estuary rather than the beach, this is something of a hidden gem within a hidden gem! Who expects to find fine dining options in a sleepy place like El Cuyo?

Piccola Italia Restaurante & Cafe – a busy & popular spot serving up truly excellent Italian dishes – great for an evening meal.

Casa Mangle – Enjoy tasty Mexican (rather than Yucatecan) food & wonderful laid back beach vibe. Casa Mangle is owned by a Mexican woman and her French husband.

Off the Vine El Cuyo – this is a weirdly good wine bar (with fully stocked shop) with food menu. The cocktails here are really wonderful, making this the best spot for happy hour!

Anahata Cafe  – great laid back vibe in this cafe.

🏝 The magic of the Costa Esmerelda

🏝 Compared to places like CancunTulum and Playa del Carmen, the beaches of Yucatan barely register with most visitors to Mexico. However, they’re missing out and you, as someone who already knows about the beaches on the Yucatán side of the Gulf of Mexico are winning at life. 

This coast is called the Costa Esmerelda because the sea here has a greenish hue to it. These gentle, shallow waters of the Yucatán are flanked by white sand beaches and palm trees. Once you’ve experienced a Yucatecan beach you’ll yearn for them for the rest of your life. 

What is there to do in El Cuyo?

sand path leading to beach - greenery on both sides, v blue sky

🐢 Turtle etiquette

El Cuyo is an important nesting area for turtles. If you stay in a hotel or house near the beach, between April – October, you’re requested to keep beach facing lights off at night so as to not confuse the nesting turtles or the babies as they head out on their journey to the sea.

There’s very little to do in El Cuyo and that’s part of its beauty. It’s a tiny fishing village with a population of under 2,000 full-time residents. El Cuyo is in the middle of a national park though so your access to nature here is pretty sweet. 

There isn’t a huge amount to do except relax on the gorgeous white sand beaches, and eat at the local restaurants. The village itself has few paved roads, instead you’ll often find yourself walking joyfully barefoot in El Cuyo. 

Most of the outdoor activities you will find revolve around either the beach or the estuary (ría) or taking day trips.

On the small plaza you’ll find a tourist information with information about tours that include fishing trips, dolphin watching, flamingos & more and as you wander around you’ll see signs advertising tours and transportation to places such as Chiquila (Holbox), Cancun, Ek Balam etc too. As yet, very little is online so you’ll need to wait until you’re in town to book anything.

El Cuyo water activities

blue sky, people kite surfing

🏖 Sunbathe and stroll on the beach and the surprisingly long pier, swim in the gorgeous green sea.

🪁 El Cuyo has become a popular destination for people who enjoy kite surfing thanks to the winter wind here. You can book a class in advance or find a teacher when you arrive.

🛶 It’s also possible to rent kayaks and paddle boards when you’re in El Cuyo.

🦩 Take a tour of the estuary (ria) and enjoy the peace and quiet in the nature reserve, checking out the great variety of species of birds – around  340 species of bird, 50 species of mammal and 95 species of reptile live in this area. 

El Cuyo dry activities

street art - face surrounded by green leaves and blue wall
green wall with multicoloured flamingo painted on it, wooden shark sculpture outside

🎨 Enjoy a stroll around the village, checking out the street art

🚲 Hire a bike from Naia cafe 

🏮 Check out the lighthouse –  I understand you have to ask for the keys to get inside the compound so head to the Capitaneria office to ask for them 

Day trips from El Cuyo

beautiful beach, white boat, blue sky

Day trips are easiest if you have your own car but there’s a chance of finding someone in El Cuyo who can show you around.

Organise day trips to Tizimin or Valladolid if you want to see bigger towns in Yucatán.

Visit the incredible pink salt lakes at nearby Las Coloradas – see the flamingos and even swim in the pink water here

Find a fisherman who will take you to Isla Holbox – it’s just a 30km boat ride

Visit the nearby interesting fishing villages of San Felipe and Rio Lagartos


Cassie

Cassie is a British-born travel writer who lives in southern Spain. Prior to moving to Spain, Cassie and her family lived in Yucatán, Mexico for many years. Something of a self-confessed-all-round travel-nerd, Cassie has a deep love of adventure, and of learning as much as possible about every place visited. This blog is testament to that.

2 Comments

Cathy · 06/05/2020 at 3:32 pm

Thanks for the shoutout and very much enjoyed reading your blog. When the world returns to normal and you’re up for visiting again, please get in touch – it’d be lovely to show you around! (Although looks like you did a pretty good job by yourself!!)

Cassie · 06/05/2020 at 4:01 pm

Oh that sounds wonderful, thank you. I can’t wait to get back to El Cuyo and would love to meet you and check out your secret spots!

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