Your expert guide to what to do in San Cristóbal de las Casas
It’s very easy to fall in love with San Cristóbal de las Casas. It’s a charming pueblo mágico of picturesque cobblestone streets, incredible views, wonderful architecture & great street art. The food scene is pretty epic too!
The city may not be the official capital of the state of Chiapas (that’s nearby Tuxtla Gutiérrez), but it is most certainly the cultural capital of Chiapas. San Cris, as it’s known to locals, is where most visitors–both local & national–to the state want to visit. It’s a beautiful mountain town that really is the perfect spot to base yourself while taking excursions and day trips around the state.
While it is generally seen as a colonial city, it’s important to remember that the Indigenous culture is a huge part of the charm and draw for tourists. The local, Tzotzil name for San Cristóbal de las Casas is Jovel. As you explore you will be interacting with Indigenous people, eating their food, buying their beautiful products & learning about their history.
This article will help you to explore the modern Mexican San Cris and Indigenous Jovel with respect for both.
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Other useful MexicoCassie guides
👧🏽 Read the MexicoCassie guide to visiting San Cristobal de las Casas with kids
→ Read the full MexicoCassie travel guide to exploring Chiapas
→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to Chiapa de Corzo
🍽 Use the MexicoCassie breakfast guide, street-food guide, guide to drinking water, Mexican drinks & Mexican candy to ensure you make the most of your food options in San Cristóbal de las Casas
How to get to San Cristóbal de las Casas
✈️ The nearest airport to San Cristóbal de las Casas in in Tuxtla Gutiérrez, which is just over an hour away.
🚗 You can rent a car at the airport & drive to San Cris
→ Check rental car options now
🚐 There are regular minibuses between the airport & San Cris – you can either book in advance or grab a spot when you arrive.
🚕 It’s also possible to take a taxi between the airport & San Cris – if you’re a group, this is actually easier, cheaper & faster than the minibuses (it’s important to remember when travelling FROM San Cris to the airport that only specific licensed cabs can enter – you can’t just pick up a local cab and ask them to drive you because they aren’t allowed to)
→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to getting to San Cristóbal de las Casas from the airport
→ Check private car options now
👣 Once you’re in San Cristóbal, if you haven’t rented a car, you can walk everywhere and book day trips. I always use Viator & GetYourGuide to book my own day trips.
Best time of year to visit San Cristóbal de las Casas
🔆 🥶 The dry season runs from November – April, more or less, however, winter in San Cris can be extremely cold, especially if you don’t have a hotel or house with good heating. We were colder inside than outside on one December trip. During the hottest months (April/May), temperatures in this subtropical mountain town rarely exceed 30℃ (86℉).
☔️ The rainy season runs from June – October but truthfully, San Cris doesn’t get that much rain.
⭐️ The best time to visit San Cristóbal de las Casas is generally considered to be between Nov – April, during the dry season.
🧳 Be sure to check temperatures before you visit and to pack accordingly.
🏨 Where to stay in San Cristóbal de las Casas
🏨 MexicoCassie top recommended hotel: Hotel Casa de Ghandi – this is a gorgeous locally owned, quirky hotel where the owner will ply you with alcohol while he ensures your stay goes smoothly. Every room is comfortable & warm and breakfast here is great.
🏨 MexicoCassie top recommended luxurious hotel: Hotel Diego De Mazariegos – just moments from the plaza, this traditional courtyard hotel is an absolute gem of a hotel in San Cris. Rooms are well appointed with great beds, lovely showers and the courtyard is a beauty. There’s also a ‘secret’ terrace with great views at sunset and sunrise. Highly recommended.
🏨 MexicoCassie top recommended hostel: Posada del Abuelito – if you’re looking for an absolute bargain spot in the centre of San Cris then this is it. It’s a hostel but it is definitely not a party hostel. Breakfasts are great and there are private rooms or dorm beds available .
🗺 Or, use the MexicoCassie accommodation finder to pick something more to your taste.
🍽 Where to eat in San Cristóbal de las Casas
Local cuisine is called ‘coleta’ – this is a cuisine that fabulously blends pre-Hispanic and European food styles. The most common dishes you’ll find are coleto asada (chile pork), often in tacos, chanfaina (tripe with rice), chalupa (that looks something like a Yucatecan salbute to me), chile relleno (delicious stuffed pepper), mole. Local drinks include pozol & pox.
You’ll also find plenty of international restaurant options in this foodie town.
MexicoCassie’s favourites
Lunch/Supper: Cocoliche, Taniperla, Sarajevo, Te Quiero Verde (vegetarian)
Breakfast: Frontera, Oh La La Pasteleria, Kukulpaan, La Casa de las Lolas, Casa de Willy, Casa de Tamal
Parque Fray Bartolomé de Las Casas – this plaza by the Mercado de Dulces is a good place to head for cheap & tasty local food
☕️ Coffee
We obviously can’t talk about San Cristóbal de las Casas and not mention the coffee. After all, Chiapas is a famous coffee growing region. There’s little more delicious to do in San Cris than sitting with a coffee and enjoying the mountain air.
MexicoCassie’s coffee recommendations
Carajillo Expendio – in my opinion there’s nowhere better to buy your coffee in San Cris. Whenever I’m in town I buy a few bags to take home as well as drinking as much as I can while I’m there!
Frontera Artisan Coffee & Food – mentioned above as a top breakfast spot, it’s also my favourite cafe for relaxing in their gorgeous courtyard with a coffee.
🆕 Histórico Café Tostador – this cafe and coffee roaster in San Cristóbal is the biggest coffee shop in all of Latin America. It’s pretty cool! And as a bonus, if you need a work space you can rent a desk by the hour that includes coffee & cake. On site there is a coffee roaster, a bakery, restaurant and even a garden centre.
👣 If you’re a coffee-aficionado then this coffee tour into the mountains and the Tzeltal town of Tenejapa to learn about the traditional art of coffee making from harvesting to brewing will be a perfect day adventure for you.
Interestingly, although coffee is what Chiapas is known for, it’s not a native plant, rather it was introduced in the late 19th / early 20th century as a means of providing local people with a cash crop. Cacao, on the other hand, has an extremely long history in the region.
🍫 Chocolate
Kawkaw Museum del Cacao & Chocolateria Cultural – take a tour (Spanish & English) to learn about the history of cacao and chocolate in Mexico and enjoy a chocolate tasting at the end. This is a really fun tour – when I took it, our guide was both informative and hilarious and yes, we got to try as many chocolates as we wanted afterwards.
👣 If you have time, take a chocolate making class at Chocolateria Jangala and spend a few hours learning about the chocolate making process and the innovations these guys, who say they are trying to preserve the soul of Mexico in a chocolate bar, have made. My family & I really enjoyed this class when we did it.
What to do in San Cristóbal de las Casas
Explore town
👣 If you like to take your time to get to know somewhere, you could begin your time in San Cris with a walking tour to help you get your bearings before you go off exploring on your own. It’s possible to pick up free tours from the Plaza de 31 Marzo but if you prefer to book in advance, it’s possible too.
→ Book a walking tour of San Cristóbal de las Casas
🚂 There’s also a little train (trenecito turistico) that drives visitors around town. I think you can pick it up on Parque Fray Bartolomé de Las Casas.
Andador de Guadalupe – this is the most famous street in town. It’s a lively, pedestrianised road that runs from the zocalo to the Guadalupe church at its the other end. Along here you’ll find shops selling souvenirs, great coffee shops, restaurants and street vendors selling their wares.
Andador Miguel Hidalgo – another pedestrianised street full of souvenir shops and cafes. This runs between the zocalo and the Arco de Carmen.
Ave 20 de Noviembre runs from the zocalo to the main artisan market and is also a good place for browsing the shops.
Zocalo (Plaza de 31 Marzo) – this is the main plaza and it’s a good place for people watching. It is flanked by the Palacio del Gobierno, which houses a small museum (MUSAC), the cathedral, various shops, and the Quiosco de Música where often in the afternoons you will find live marimba performances. There are very often also locals with small stalls here.
Plaza de la Paz – this is a smaller plaza just off to one side of zocalo.
🎨 Be sure to keep your eyes open for incredible street art as you walk around town. Use it as a starting point for considering the story San Cristóbal is telling itself & its visitors – consider the politics of this poor state with the highest Indigenous population of anywhere in Mexico
Zapaturismo
There’s no denying that part of the lure of Chiapas is the romantic view people hold of the Zapatista movement.
In 1994, the Zapatistas, under Subcomandante Marcos marched into San Cristóbal de las Casas in a non-violent revolution against the state and as a protest against NAFTA.
They were challenging the status-quo, demanding change and an end to institutionalised racism and the economic marginalisation of the Indigenous peoples of Mexico.
The Zapatistas are still actively working towards a better future, a feminist future, one where everyone has access to health care & education and where capitalism is not a threat to Indigenous life & culture.
Support them by eating in Restaurante Taniperla (my kids’ favourite restaurant), learning about their ethics and demands & by supporting local businesses such as: Kikimundo (a feminist art gallery), Libreria La Cosecha (an incredible feminist book store – their art above), Taller Leñateros (an editorial female Chiapan collective who have published the first truly Maya works in 400 years. And, of course, in working to overthrow the patriarchy and end racism wherever you are ✊🏾.
La Sagrada Paz on the andador is a good small shop, Tulan Chulel is great female run Indigenous shop I highly recommend checking out.
🛍 Souvenir shopping
The markets of San Cris are rivalled by no other in Mexico. THIS is where you need to be to pick up your souvenirs, gifts and home decor. There is nowhere like it for price or quality. Also, the vendors are, without fail, friendly and engaging.
The biggest & most exciting place to check out is the sprawling artisan market outside Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman and the Mercado de Dulces y Artesanías Ámbar is also a pretty good option. You’ll also find smaller markets in courtyards and all along the streets you’ll find local vendors selling their wares.
Marvel at the gorgeously colourful weavings and textiles, wonderful bracelets, dog collars, decorations & more in the markets. There’s also a great amount of amber & pottery to be found. (I wrote this in a room full of San Cris pieces by the way: right by me there is a wall hanging, a bedspread, 4 little jaguar heads, a pottery jaguar, 2 pottery birds, a poster and numerous pompoms – and that’s just this room of my house 😉. I’m serious when I say this is an excellent place to buy things.)
Mercado Municipal José Castillo Tielemans (Calle Gral. M Utrilla) – this bustling, busy market is also an interesting place to explore although it’s worth remembering that it’s not really a tourist destination. You’re welcome to visit but please don’t take photos while you’re there and don’t get in people’s way as they go about their shopping. The approach to the market has some interesting leather stalls to check out too.
Please remember that the most of the souvenirs you’ll find in San Cristóbal de las Casas and the Indigenous villages nearby will not have been mass produced overseas. They are local pieces made by talented local people. While it’s ok to haggle a little, responsible and respectful tourism means paying a fair price & always being polite when you’re bargaining.
⛪️ Check out the churches
Catedral de San Cristóbal Mártir – this is an imposing yellow & red colonial church that dates from the early 16th century – building work began in 1528. There is also a big wooden cross standing in front of the church that people seem to like. This building combines Baroque, Mudéjar and Neoclassic architectural styles and is quite an impressive building if you like churches.
Personally, I prefer the following
Iglesia de San Cristobalito (picture above is the view from this church) & the Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe – the churches stand one at either end of the city. Both are perched atop hills and require climbing up a lot steps to reach them. Both are high recommended for the views they offer over the town. Behind San Cristobalito you’ll find a good spot for a little walk in the woods.
Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman – this 17th century church’s Baroque facade is incredible, it’s so intricate and ornate. Be sure to find it when you’re in the market.
🔎 Museums
There are some pretty interesting museums in San Cristobal (my favourites are marked with a ⭐️).
⭐️ Textiles del Mundo Maya – you might think you don’t care about textiles but it won’t matter, this is a truly incredible place. I didn’t think I’d be interested but I was blown away by the exhibits.
⭐️ Museo de la Medicina Maya – a small yet fascinating museum of traditional medicines with a particular focus on pregnancy and childbirth. Everything is also provided in English.
Museo de los Altos de Chiapas Ex Convento de Santo Domingo – a small museum highlighting Indigenous resistance to Europeans and their evangelisation.
Museo del Ambar – this small museum dedicated to amber jewellery & fossils is located in a nice 16th century ex-convent building.
Na Bolom – this is a small museum & hotel dedicated to the work of Trudi and Franz Blom in the Lacandon jungle in the 1940s
Museo Sergio Castro – this is a small, private museum of traditional Indigenous costumes. You need to call to book if you wish to visit. I’ve been and while the place is undeniably fascinating, I wasn’t a massive fan of the slightly chauvinistic owner/guide and his inappropriate comments about women.
⭐️ Kakaw – the history of chocolate, as mentioned above, this is a fabulous museum to visit but you can only go on a tour. These are given in both English and Spanish. English tours only at 1pm and 6pm (according to the sign on the door).
Museo Mesoamericano del Jade – everything here is a replica but the explanations are good and the owner is very happy to answer questions.
🌲 Nature spots
El Arcotete Parque Ecoturístico – this is a fabulous space for running, exploring, playing, and breathing deep while enjoying the pine forests of the Chiapas countryside. It costs around $10 pesos per person to enter and is possible to take a minibus to the carpark if you don’t have a car
There are bathrooms, small shops for snacks and souvenirs. You can zipline, explore caves, take a tiny boat on the river or just enjoy walking.
Orquídeas Moxviquil – this is a botanical-garden-plus – you can explore the spectacular orchid gardens before taking a guided tour into the incredible forest covered hills to learn about orchids, epifetas (epiphytes in English) and bromelias (bromeliads in English) – the different types of plants that live in symbiotic relationships with trees. The tour requires a lot of walking and at the peak includes a small guided meditation. It’s one of my favourite places to visit in San Cris.
Huitepec Ecological Reserve (Reserva Huitepec) – here you pay a minimal fee to enter this gorgeous forest spot on the road towards San Juan Chamula. You can climb trees, mushroom spot, enjoy views and go hiking.
Visit Indigenous villages
San Juan Chamula
This small autonomous town is an absolute must to visit if you have any interest at all in the culture & history of this area. The vast majority of people who live in San Juan Chaumla are Indigenous, the majority being Tzotzil. This is considered to be one of the last remaining truly living Maya places in Mexico. While the church is ostensibly Catholic, it’s also very much pre-hispanic Maya in its rituals.
Note that neither the national police nor the military are permitted to enter San Juan Chamula.
The church of San Juan Chamula
The church (above), well, wow. Just wow. As I said, it’s well known on the tourist route but in reality, there is nothing touristy about it at all. Non-pueblo residents pay to enter the church and are not permitted to take photos (seriously, don’t or they’ll remove your camera/phone from you).
Whether you take an official tour or find a guide when you arrive, I highly, highly recommend getting someone to tell you about the town, its history and the church & traditional culture.
MexicoCassie San Juan Chamula experiences
The first time I visited it was a chilly Christmas Eve afternoon. We walked into the church and were immediately struck by the lack of pews. Instead, the floor is covered in pine needles and everyone in there is just doing their own thing. Hundreds of lit candles flickered on the floor and in people’s hands. Processions of people moved slowly around the church. The smell of copal merged with the smoke of the candles to create an atmosphere I’ve only experienced once before in my life, in the Jhokang in Tibet. I’m certainly not religious but this was a moment that will stay with me forever.
➕ In front of the church is a large market where you can pick up artisan handicrafts, including textiles made by the local women. There are also some lovely small shops to explore.
⭐️ MexicoCassie recommended tour to Chamula – this minibus tour visits both San Juan Chamula & Zincanatán, giving visitors the chance to explore both villages, & learn about the Indigenous cultures from within the community.
🚲 Or, if you enjoy a bit of exercise, why not take a bike tour from San Cris to Chamula & Zincanatán
Zincanatán
If you’re heading out to Chamula, Zincanatán is also nearby. The main draw of Zincanatán for tourists is the weaving and handicrafts. It’s a lovely place to visit for a walk around and lunch but be warned, you will leave with bags full of awesome souvenirs and gifts!
Mujeres Sembrando la Vida
This is a cooperative of around 200 women in Zincanatán who make incredible traditional clothing. You can visit them, their store and learn more about their passion for the local traditions.
Find them on FB or send them a message via WhatsApp (0052 96713811659). There are some English speakers amongst them.
👣 Check out options for tours to Zincanatán
⭐️ MexicoCassie recommended tour to Chamula & Zincanatán – this tour visits both San Juan Chamula & Zincanatán, giving visitors the chance to explore both villages, & learn about the Indigenous cultures from within the community.
Take day trips from San Cristóbal de las Casas
Because San Cristóbal is the main tourist town in Chiapas, most of the tours available leave from here. You could drive yourself if you wanted to but my recommendation is to take the odd tour, relax and let someone else look after you at this point!
🚗 Check rental car options now
👣 Check tour options on Viator & GetYourGuide
The most popular day trips from San Cristóbal de las Casas are:
Cañon del Sumidero
Pretty much everyone who visits San Cristóbal de las Casas will take a day for a boat ride on along the incredible Sumidero Canyon to marvel at the 1,000 m cliffs soaring high above them, check out the incredible viewpoints over this area of natural beauty & possibly even see crocodiles, turtles & spider monkeys.
→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to visiting the Cañon del Sumidero & Chiapa de Corzo
⭐️ MexicoCassie recommended Sumidero Canyon tour – this full day tour with an English speaking guide takes you along the river through the canyon and to several miradors (viewpoints) over the canyon. It also allows time to explore the lovely little town of Chiapa de Corzo.
Mayan jungle ruins of Palenque
The Palenque ruins are located deep in the Lacandon Jungle in southern Chiapas. As you might expect, there are numerous tours heading to the ancient ruins of Palenque every day. To be clear, this is a really long day, you have to really want to visit Palenque from San Cristóbal to do it.
⭐️ MexicoCassie recommended tour to Palenque – this is a 17 hr tour that gives you time to explore the truly phenomenal ruins of Palenque and spend time checking out the gorgeous Agua Azul waterfalls & Misol-Ha waterfalls.
➕ These days it’s kinda easier to visit Palenque via the Yucatan Peninsula on the Maya train.
🏨 If you decide you want to stay in Palenque, I highly recommend Hotel Cabañas Safari, where my family stayed on our most recent trip there.
El Chiflón waterfalls, Aguas Azules & Lagos de Montebello
This is another long day but it’s so very worth it as the waterfalls & lakes are absolutely magnificently beautiful.
⭐️ MexicoCassie recommended 2 day tour to El Chiflon, Aguas Azules & the Lagos de Montebello – this tour takes in 2 gorgeous waterfalls & the incredible lakes of Montebello. The tour includes accommodation, entry tickets, & transport but not food costs.
⭐️ MexicoCassie recommended 1 day tour to El Chiflón & the Lagos de Montebello – this full day tour includes an English speaking guide, time to explore El Chiflón on a short hike to a gorgeous viewpoint before taking a dip in the water. At Montebello you’ll visit 5 lakes including the one right on the border with Guatemala.
Sima de las Cotorras
This is one of a number of natural sinkholes in the El Ocote Biosphere Reserve that are the result tectonic and erosive processes on the region’s limestone. Although not the largest and deepest of the area’s sinkholes, it is the best known because of the thousands of Mexican green parakeets who live there most of the year, flying in and out in circular patterns.
⭐️ MexicoCassie recommended tour to Sima de las Cotorras – this is a really worthwhile full day tour to the incredible natural sink hole to witness the multitudes of swirling parakeets. (Not included in the price are the awesome adventure activities you can do here such as rappelling into the sink hole). After this the tour heads to the Cueva del Encanto & the Aguacero waterfall.
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