If you’ve always dreamed of visiting Mexico for the Day of the Dead celebrations, now is the very best time to make this happen. In this article you’ll find all the information you need to start planning your perfect Mexican Día de los Muertos 2024 trip.

Seriously, which travel blogger could be a better bet to walk you through the ins and outs of Día de los Muertos in Mexico than me, someone who loves Mexico passionately and is regularly told they have the soul of a Mexican? (apart from someone Mexican, I know, I know)

In this article, we’ll cover:

📌 What Día de los Muertos is all about

📌 How you’re likely to experience it as a visitor

📌 The nine best locations to have that incredible Día de los Muertos 2024 experience you’ve been waiting for

📌 What you’ll find on an ofrenda

My family’s love affair with Día de los Muertos began in 2016 with a kindergarten comparsa (parade) in Oaxaca. We were invited to take part since the kids were enrolled in the school. We grabbed the opportunity and joined the other families dancing, singing, and flinging candies into the watching crowds. Every year from then on, Día de los Muertos has been an integral part of my family’s life. Every year at school my kids took part in Hanal Pixan activities and celebrations (Hanal Pixan is the Yucatecan equivalent of Día de los Muertos): building altars, writing posadas, making tamales and singing Día de los Muertos songs. We even build our own altar at home and you can be sure that even though we live in Spain now we will still celebrate Día de los Muertos in 2024.

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What is Día de los Muertos?

Día de los Muertos is probably Mexico’s most famous export after tequila but what exactly is it? 

12 Fascinating Facts about Día de Muertos

🔎 Día de los Muertos can also be written as Día de Muertos. Both translate as Day of the Dead. 

🔎 Día de los Muertos dates back to prehispanic times, in fact it has probably been celebrated for thousands of years. The festival is Aztec in origin and is linked to the worship of the goddess Michtecacihuatl, the Aztec ruler of the underworld.

🔎 Prior to the Spanish invasion of Mexico, Día de Muertos was celebrated in the summer. The Spanish moved it to coincide with the European-Christian days of All Saints’ Eve, All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Days. This was part of the Spanish efforts to Christianise Mexico.

🔎 It might look as if Day of the Dead is a celebration of death but really it’s a celebration of life. Death in Mexico is seen as part of the cycle of life.

🔎 Day of the Dead is joyful; it includes dancing, music, bright colours, family meals and street parties.

🔎 Día de los Muertos is celebrated differently around the country; in Yucatán for example, Día de Muertos is called Hanal Pixan and there are different traditions to observe.

🔎 Dia de Muertos is mainly celebrated in the central and southern regions of Mexico. 

🔎 During Día de Muertos it is believed that the border between the world of the living and the spirits dissolves, allowing the dead to visit their loved ones back on earth for one night.

🔎 There can be a lot of black-humour in the Day of the Dead celebrations – from the Catrinas (skeletons in fancy clothes) to the Posadas—silly poems about living people and how they died—you’ll find the Mexican take on death quite refreshing.

🔎 Food plays an important role in Día de Muertos. The dead are left offerings of their favourite foods and the living gobble them up once the celebrations are over.

🔎 Mexico City’s enormous Day of the Dead parade is actually not a traditional part of Día de los Muertos. The James Bond movie, Spectre included a fictional parade in Mexico City and the response from visitors was overwhelming so the local government decided to incorporate it into their annual festivities. 

🔎 In 2008, UNESCO named Día de los Muertos as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Book your trip asap to avoid disappointment. Accommodation in popular Día de los Muertos cities will be snapped up fast. 

Does Día de Muertos = Mexican Halloween?

Dia de Muertos is not Mexican Halloween despite being celebrated at the same time and seemingly sharing some components.

In some Mexican cities, you may see people dressing up in Halloween-style costumes and you may even see some trick-or-treat style candy being passed around. It probably depends on how much American influence there is in a particular city. Children may ask you, “me das mi calaverita?” – “can you give me my little skull?” They are referring to the day of the dead sugar skulls you’ll see at this time of year).

In Oaxaca, it’s very common to see people dressed up in what you might think of as “Halloween fancy dress”.

Halloween is actually the modern descendant of the ancient Celtic festival of Samhain. Children were disguised to protect them from malevolent spirits who were thought to return to our realm at this time of year. Día de los Muertos does not see the spirits as malevolent, rather they are seen as family members returning home.

Exploring festivals and celebrations in Mexico is a great way to educate children about Mexico and different cultures. Homeschooling families in Mexico can pick a different location every year.

When Exactly is Día de los Muertos Celebrated?

Día de los Muertos is officially a three-day celebration over October 31st and November 1st and November 2nd.

📌 October 31 is sometimes known as Noche de Brujas (Witches Night). It’s more officially the Eve of Día de Muertos and is a time for people to put the finishing touches to their altars. 

📌 November 1 is Día de los Inocentes or Día de los Angelitos (Day of the Little Angels) – the day to remember children who have died. In English, this is All Souls Day. 

📌 November 2 is Día de los Muertos or Día de los Difuntos – the day for remembering adults who have died. November 2nd is an official public holiday. 

Because this is such an important festival in Mexico, if you’re visiting in October you may well find cities, businesses, and families gearing up for the Day of the Dead festivities during the entire month.

Official dates for Día de los Muertos 2024 activities will be released in late September/early October but it’s still absolutely worth booking your trip to Mexico as early as possible. 

How can visitors get involved in Día de los Muertos 2024?

This is a good question because of course, Día de Muertos, as a family celebration of life, doesn’t necessarily sound as if it has a place for visitors or tourists. 

But fret not, for it is perfectly possible for visitors to enjoy Day of the Dead. In fact, there are many places and ways in which you will be able to get involved in Día de los Muertos celebrations. 

Please do remember that while Mexicans are incredibly welcoming and love sharing their culture, this is a festival that is intensely important to many. Families are truly celebrating the memory of their loved ones in the cemeteries and with their altars. Just because these celebrations take place in public doesn’t mean you can take photos or touch without asking first.

Use your judgement, be respectful and have a wonderful time!

In Oaxaca I stumbled across a child’s ofrenda sitting alone in the street. This is when it really sunk in just how real and serious this festival is. It isn’t a party. It isn’t a show put on for tourists. It’s a real part of Mexican culture. As visitors we have a responsibility to remember this and behave accordingly. We are honoured to have the opportunity to witness this ancient and beautiful festival.

We’ll get to the most popular cities to visit for Day of the Dead shortly but first, let’s look at how visitors can get involved: 

🗝 Walk around town, admiring altars

🗝 Visit cemeteries (this is possible all year round without guides but may be more suited to guided tours during Día de Muertos)

🗝 Visit local markets to see and buy the items commonly available during Día de Muertos such as sugar skulls and papel picado

🗝 Eat traditional Día de Muertos foods such as Pan de Muerto and tamales

🗝 Get your face painted as a calavera (this is not seen as cultural appropriation if you’re in Mexico and are respectful of local culture)

🗝 Find out from locals what/when/where the city celebrations will be and respectfully join in

🗝 Watch Coco before you travel. It’s a beautiful and sensitive animated movie about Día de los Muertos that everyone can enjoy learn from. My family and I watch it every year in the run-up to Day of the Dead. 

Top Tip: If you want to buy artisan souvenirs then the markets are your best bet but if you just want Día de los Muertos household items like those you might see in a Mexican home, head to a supermarket for some great deals.

9 Excellent Cities for Día de los Muertos in 2024

Remember how I mentioned that the official Day of the Dead schedules are often released pretty late? We’re talking mid-September to mid-October depending on how organised a local government has been.  If you’re worried about not finding information in time or you think you might miss out on the action, I recommend booking a tour in your chosen city. 

Booking a tour will give you peace of mind that you’re not missing out. Most Day of the Dead tours are run by local operators who really know what they’re doing, when and where the best comparsas (parades) will be, which cemeteries to visit and when and even where the most ornate or beautiful ofrendas are. Your experience of Day of the Dead will be deeper, more authentic and more connected to communities if you find a really good local tour guide.

As I noted above, central Mexico and southern Mexico tend to celebrate Day of the Dead more than northern Mexico. These are the places I most recommend if you want to experience Día de los Muertos celebrations in 2024:

Oaxaca City, Oaxaca

I spent my first ever Día de Muertos in Oaxaca in 2016. My kids were two and four and we had just begun our Mexico journey. Being so lucky as to experience Oaxaca during Day of the Dead set us up for many years of living happily in Mexico. 

What to Expect from Oaxaca from Día de los Muertos 2024

Oaxaca is often thought of as the heart of Mexico because so much of what foreigners think of as quintessentially Mexican comes from this region including food and souvenirs. And as for Día de Muertos, there is simply nowhere like Oaxaca because while Oaxacans do take the festival seriously, they also love to party and they love for people to party with them. 

What to do in Oaxaca during Día de los Muertos 2024

Oaxaca is an incredible city to visit at any time of the year but it really ramps up for Day of the Dead. From about halfway through October you’ll start to see ofrendas (altars) and catrinas (dressed-up skeletons) in shops and the local markets will start selling Day of the Dead items.

🗝 Be sure to spend time walking around the city streets, plazas and markets (including the enormous Central de Abasto Market just outside Centro) in the run-up to Day of the Dead. You won’t believe the size of this place so be sure to leave a good few hours to really and truly get lost here. It’s incredible!

🗝 Visit the cemetery in the evenings of 31 October to 2 November. You can explore the graves and tombs, seeing how they have been decorated and then join locals at the funfair outside.

🗝 Join the parties outside the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, on Zocalo and throughout the streets of Oaxaca.

🗝 Enjoy a parade. The opening parade is called the Magna Comparsa. Because Oaxaca is Oaxaca though, every school, club, and group will have its own parade so you’re sure to have something to see or join. Be warned: there will be fireworks. A lot of fireworks.

🗝 Enjoy browsing the craft markets that are set up all around Oaxaca that sell traditional Day of the Dead items as well as artesanias from around the country. Maybe pick up an alebrije or small skull to take home with you. 

🗝 Visit the central Oaxaca highlands to experience a traditional comparsa (parade) with local tour guides.

Oaxaca Details

How long to spend in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is one of those places everyone should visit at least once in a lifetime: it’s vibrant, welcoming and utterly jam-packed with cultural activities.

It would be easy to spend two or three weeks in Oaxaca State and never run out of things to do.

How to get to Oaxaca

✈️ Oaxaca’s airport is called Oaxaca Xoxocotlan International Airport (OAX) and it is located just nine kilometers, or twenty minutes drive, from Oaxaca’s Centro. There are airport taxis available or you can organise a private transfer to your hotel or Airbnb.

🚍 Oaxaca is serviced by ADO long-distance buses. There are three bus stations in Oaxaca. The main one is located on Calle 5 de Mayo in Jalatlaco neighbourhood. You can check prices and timetables on Busbud, my favourite bus booking site.

Where to stay in Oaxaca

If you’re visiting Oaxaca for Día de los Muertos 2024 I recommend staying in the Centro Historico if you can. This way you’ll be able to walk everywhere and won’t have to spend a fortune on cabs. If you stay a little longer then consider moving out into the small villages around Oaxaca like San Felipe del Agua or San Andres Huayapam (where I stayed for a while in 2017) although you’ll need a rental car out here.

Where else to visit around Oaxaca

There is so much to do and see around Oaxaca.

Ruins: Monte Alban, Atzompa

Nature: Hierve al Agua (picture 1), take a trip to Latuvi (picture 3) or one of the other villages in the Sierra Norte or to the mushroom village, San Jose del Pacifico

Beaches: the Oaxaca coastal towns such as Mazunte, Puerto Escondido and Zipolite are a six-hour drive from Oaxaca City (picture 2).

Tradition: Tour the traditional alebrije, pottery and carpet workshops, the mezcal factories and more.

The foodieflashpacker spent 2018’s Day of the Dead in Oaxaca City and after he told me, “There is often the fear that when you finally get to cross off a bucket list item that maybe it won’t live up to your expectations, that perhaps you’ve overhyped it somehow. In this instance, I’m happy to report that wasn’t the case. Día de Muertos is one of the most beautiful and meaningful celebrations I’ve ever attended and I hope to experience it in different parts of the country in the coming years to see how it differs.”

Día de los Muertos 2024 Bonus: Xoxocotlan

Xoxo (pronounced Ho-ho), as locals call Xoxoctlan is a pueblo just south of Oaxaca and while it isn’t generally considered to be a vacation destination, at this time of year it fills with tourists who want to see something outside of Oaxaca.

What to Expect from Día de los Muertos in Xoxocotlan

The main square in Xoxo will be beautifully decorated and the entire street to the main cemetery, the Panteon Mictlancihuatl, turns into a long market full of street vendors selling micheladas, snacks and painting calavera faces.  

The cemetery is the heart of everything in Xoxo though as families set up altars on their family tombs. The altars include candles, foods and drinks for their ancestors and plenty of cempasuchil flowers to guide their loved ones home from the spirit world. 

What to do in Xoxocotlan during Día de los Muertos 2024

🗝 Visit the plaza to see the Catrinas and the altars.

🗝 Visit the cemetery to see families in Xoxo welcome home their difuntos with decorated tombs, food, flowers and candles. 

Truthfully, Xoxocotlan has become something of a tourist spot since I visited in 2016, in fact, Katrin, who lives there, told me about how she had to push through drunk tourists just to get into the cemetery. Don’t be that way. Sure, enjoy a drink in the market but don’t get drunk and ruin it for others, please. 

Mexico City

Mexico City is my favourite city in the entire world because of its incredible number of museums, art galleries and parks. I highly recommend spending time in CDMX (or DF, short for Distrito Federal, as locals like to call it) at any time of the year.

What to Expect from Día de los Muertos 2024 in Mexico City

As you might expect, Día de Muertos in Mexico City will blow your mind. Mexico City is the oldest city in the Americas, and it doesn’t disappoint for Day of the Dead. To be honest, like any trip to Mexico City, you’re going to have to plan your time and figure out what you really want to do because there’s just so much going on. 

If the idea of the main desfile (parade) and the huge crowds it attracts terrify you, why not choose a smaller area of Mexico City and explore how it celebrates Día de Muertos. Below I include two areas I love very much: Coyoacan and Xochimilco for precisely this reason. 

Although I generally think Mexico City is a great place for kids, I’m not sure I’d take my children into a crowd of a million people. I’d probably stick to a smaller area of the city if I were going to be with them in CDMX for Day of the Dead.

Top Tip: Mexico City, more than anywhere it’s important to book your flights and accommodation early as the Mexican Grand Prix 2024 is held in Mexico City in October, similar dates to Día de los Muertos. 

What to do in Mexico City During Día de los Muertos 2024

🗝 El Gran Desfile de Día de Muertos. Despite being the newest attraction, El Gran Desfile de Día de Muertos (the Great Day of the Dead Parade), shouldn’t be missed. It’s typically held on the Saturday preceding Dia de Muertos (probably October 28th 2024) but it won’t be announced until early October. The desfile begins at Estela de Luz and ends in Zocalo. Be aware that around a million people are likely to attend this event so arrive early and keep a tight hold of your belongings. 

🗝 Visit Zocolo in the historic centre of Mexico City to explore the ofrendas. Every year, Mexico City’s Zocalo (main plaza) is home to a new display of monumental ofrendas. These go up before Day of the Dead and remain up for most of November. 

🗝 Day of the Dead in Coyoacan District: one of Mexico City’s most traditional districts, Coyoacan is also a great spot for getting into the swing of Dia de los Muertos. The two main plazas are generally joyous and are colourfully decorated but at Día de los Muertos they go all out with ofrendas and decorations. There are performances to watch on these squares every year too as well as their own local Día de Muertos parade. Have your face painted with traditional calavera face paints, grab a pan de muerto and explore the ofrendas, the markets (I bought a massive stash of papel picado in the market here) and even the museums.  

🗝 Check out Museum ofrendas: Many museums in CDMX will have their own displays and ofrendas for Día de Muertos. The ofrendas in the museums tend to stay up until December. 

Museo Anahuacalli (home to Diego Rivera’s huge pre-Columbian Mexican collection and well worth visiting any time of year). When I visited for Día de los Muertos the ofrenda was dedicated to Rivera, his wife Frida Kahlo and was elaborated in the style of Paco Raban.

Casa Azul (Museo Frida Kahlo) also hosts an ofrenda worth seeing, of course, dedicated to Frida herself!

🗝 Day of the Dead in Xochimilco: In this southern neighbourhood that is best known for its UNESCO World Heritage canals there is plenty going on for Día de los Muertos. In the main plaza you will find dancing, sand tapestries, ofrendas and more. There’s also a free pulque festival nearby. Pulque, if you’re not sure, is a local fermented agave drink. While you’re here, visit the Dolores Olmedo Museum and do not miss the opportunity to take a night ride through the canals. While it’s perfectly possible to do this all year round, for over thirty years, during Día de Muertos this has been transformed into something truly extraordinary:  “La Llorona en Xochimilco”, a retelling of a haunting traditional Mexican tale.

🗝 La Llorona en Xochimilco is a theatre production performed on the canals to an audience in trajineras (canal boats). The canal boats are rowed down the waterways to a meeting point where the audience is told the story of the woman condemned to spend eternity searching for the children she drowned in a fit of rage. The show culminates with a sound and light show. This show runs from the end of September to the end of November, Fri-Sun only except during the week of Día de Muertos when it shows every night. Buy tickets and pick up your boat at Embarcadero Cuemanco. Arrive early to ensure you manage to get a ticket. Costs $500 pesos a person. If you don’t want to queue for tickets and prefer to take a tour, this is also possible.

🗝 Take a tour of a cemetery in Mexico City. I recommend a tour because not all cemeteries are open for Día de Muertos and some aren’t as welcoming to visitors as others. It would be a shame to travel to a cemetery only to find it isn’t open. 

🗝 Stroll along the beautiful Avenida Paso de la Reforma to see the giant skulls (I actually saw them in Sevilla in 2022!), giant catrinas and alebrijes, the festival of cempasuchil flowers and many other installations and markets along this gorgeous avenue that runs through Mexico City from the epic Bosque de Chapultepec. Note that the alebrijes are only displayed after they have been paraded through the city. 

Mexico City Details

How long to spend in Mexico City

The only real answer to the question, “how long should I spend in Mexico City?” is “a lifetime and it still wouldn’t be long enough”.

Whatever you can manage will do for now! My biggest recommendation is to try and stick to one or two zones of the city per visit otherwise it just gets overwhelming.

How to get to Mexico City

✈️ Mexico City has two airports, Benito Jaurez and the new Felipe Angles, which is much further away from the city. Be sure you know which one you’re arriving into when you book your flights to Mexico City There are airport taxis available or you can call Uber or organise a private transfer to your hotel or Airbnb.

🚍 Mexico City, as the capital city is well serviced by ADO long-distance buses. Tickets, timetables and prices can be checked on BusBud.

Where to stay in Mexico City

If you’re visiting Mexico City for Día de los Muertos 2024 then I recommend either staying in the Centro Historico, around Condesa or Coyoacan.

Where else to visit from Mexico City

There is no doubt in my mind that Mexico City is one of the most exciting places on the planet but it’s also a fabulous hub should you wish to explore elsewhere in Mexico. From here you can fly or drive to pretty much everywhere else in the country.

Given that Día de los Muertos is also the beginning of monarch butterfly season (photo 1)in Mexico you could take a tour to see this magical wonder.

Visit the sun and moon pyramids at Teotihuacan and take a hot air balloon ride (photo 2)

Explore Puebla and Cholula and see the world’s largest pyramid (photo 3)

Relax in the magical hot springs at the Grutas de Tolantongo

April lives near Mexico City. She says that for her, zocalo is where it’s at for Día de Muertos. She loves watching the world, seeing the decorations and getting involved although she recommends heading there in the morning, before the real crowds arrive. 

Mérida, Yucatán

Mérida was my home for many years; it’s where my children grew up and made their formative memories. It’s the place they will always think of as home as well as the place about which I’ve written two books. In Mérida my children learned to make their own altars, to make (and eat) the traditional tamales and xec, the Hanal Pixan salad and to sing the calaverita song with their friends. 

In Mérida by the way, it isn’t Día de los Muertos that is celebrated but rather, the Maya Hanal Pixan, an even older and more sombre affair than Día de Muertos.

Hanal Pixan means “food for the souls” and when you visit you’ll see why it’s called that. It really is all about welcoming family home from the spirit world with their favourite foods and enjoying eating those foods yourself, too.  

What to Expect from Hanal Pixan 2024 in Mérida

As I said, Hanal Pixan in Mérida is somewhat more sombre than you might expect if you’ve experienced Día de los Muertos somewhere like Oaxaca but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth your time. Come with an open mind and be prepared to learn as well as party.

Even the ofrendas (altars) are different in Yucatán – here people tended to be buried in their homes so that’s where the altars are set up.

Altars require white tablecloths, jacaras (gourds to hold food and drink), candles (white for adults, coloured for children) and flowers. Typically you’ll see a green wooden cross in the centre of an altar. This represents the ceiba tree, which is very important in Maya cosmology.  

You’ll see far fewer altars in shops and cafes than in somewhere like Oaxaca. 

What to Do for Hanal Pixan in Mérida

🗝 Explore the community ofrenda competition on the Plaza Grande to get an idea of how a Maya altar looks.

🗝 Eat pib at the pib festival. This is generally held over the weekend before Hanal Pixan in Parque San Sebastian. 

🗝 Follow the Paseo de los Animas (Parade of the Souls). This is the main procession in Mérida. It leaves from the main cemetery and ends at Parque San Juan where stages are set up for performances. While visitors can’t officially join the parade, they can follow along behind and enjoy the street party that erupts behind it. As you follow the party, stop and check out the altars people have moved outside their houses, grab snacks and marvel at everyone’s traditional clothing.

🗝 Visit Mercado Lucas de Galvez to gaze at all the Hanal Pixan items on sale, including the traditional sugar skulls, and candies. While you’re there, why not pick up some good value traditional Hanal Pixan clothing (huipiles for women and guayaberas for the men) to wear to the Paseo de los Animas?

You can either buy artisan huipiles and guayaberas that are handmade or you can buy cheap factory-made versions. You get what you pay for, of course, but don’t expect to pay factory prices for true artisanal work.

🗝 La Ermita Botanical Gardens – during the Paseo de las Animas you can take a peek inside these often closed gardens on La Ermita. Local businesses set up altars here and they’re generally fascinatingly specific to their business. (this is a true insider tip by the way – non-locals rarely know about this)

🗝 Attend any of the many local government-sponsored performances in Centro. The official schedule will be available by early October.

🗝 Camino de los Flores. This is located in Parque de la Paz (just in front of the old prison – don’t tell anyone I told you but if you can sneak inside, it’s really interesting!). This flower path is visited via a raised walkway. It consists of many thousands of flowers and planets and is different every year. 

Mérida Details

How long to spend in Mérida

Well, I lived in Mérida for six years and I’m still feeling as if I didn’t see everything! A week or two ought to be enough for a happy trip, though. Mérida is a great place to base yourself while exploring the whole of the Yucatán Peninsula.

How to get to Mérida

✈️ Mérida has a recently modernised international airport called Aeropuerto Internacional Manuel Crescencio Rejón that is a mere twenty minutes from Mérida’s Centro Historico. There are official airport cabs at the airport but Uber is firmly not permitted on federal airport grounds. If you really want to take an Uber you’ll need to walk all the way to the main road before anyone will stop for you (and many people do exactly this). Otherwise you can book a private transfer in advance.

🚍 Mérida is well connected by ADO bus. You can use Busbud to check timetables and fares.

Where to stay in Mérida

Ideally, you want to stay in Centro so that you can make the most of your time in Mérida. After the festivities have ended, you could always consider moving to a beach hotel.

What else to do around Mérida

Beaches: Mérida is beautifully located a short drive from many amazing beaches including Progreso, Sisal, Celestun, Las Coloradas, El Cuyo and it’s even possible to drive to Cancun in a morning. Yucatán coast isn’t called the Emerald Coast for nothing – you must check out the amazing beaches while you’re here.

Cenotes: Mérida is surrounded by gorgeous cenotes, some of which are even perfectly accessible with children.

Maya Ruins: Obviously, Chichén Itzá, Mexico’s most famous pyramid is just down the road but did you know that there are dozens of archaeological sites in Yucatán? Easily visitable in a day are Mayapan, Dzibilichaltun, Xcambo, Uxmal, and so many more.

Other towns: Campeche, Izamal, Valladolid are three of the closest cities to Mérida that are reguarly visited.

Hanal Pixan 2024 Bonus: Pomuch

Betwen Mérida and Campeche lies the fascinating small village of Pomuch. Truthfully, there isn’t much in Pomuch and people don’t tend to stop here very often but they should, particularly around Hanal Pixan.

What to expect from Hanal Pixan in Pomuch

In Pomuch, five or so years after burial, bodies are exhumed and set out to dry in the sun before being lovingly cleaned by the family members. The bones are then placed in a small wooden box that is often left open and placed on a shelf in the cemetery for all to see. Annually, just before Hanal Pixan, the bones are ceremoniously removed and cleaned. While cleaning them they talk about their dead and they tell the dead about their year.

The main reason people visit Pomuch is to visit the cemetery (any time of the year) and around Hanal Pixan to get a glimpse of the bones being cleaned.

What to do on Hanal Pixan in Pomuch

In order to get to Pomuch you really need a car of your own or to go with a guide.

Tlaquepaque, Guadalajara, Jalisco

Tlaquepaque is a small “pueblo magico” within the metropolis of Guadalajara, one of the biggest cities in Mexico. Tlaquepaque, despite being hard to pronounce (tla-qu-pa-ke) is a fabulous place to visit at any time of year. Its streets are lively, there are numerous galleries and artisan shops, there’s music everywhere and the ice creams are delicious. 

What to Expect from Día de los Muertos in Tlaquepaque

In Tlaquepaque, according to locals, Día de los Muertos is less about remembrance and more about partying. Last year (2022), it was estimated that around 20,000 people attended the (mostly free) 120 Day of the Dead events in Tlaquepaque over the three days of festivities so you can be assured that even if the schedule isn’t released in time for you booking your trip, there will be extreme fun to be had in this small town. 

What to Do at Día de los Muertos in Tlaquepaque

🗝 Walk around the streets of Tlaquepaque enjoying the atmosphere, the catrinas, giant skulls and papel picado strung everywhere.

🗝 Watch (or even take part in the) Desfile de Novias Catrinas (Partners’ Parade) – this generally starts at 7 pm and is held on the Saturday closest to Día de los Muertos. Last year it was possible to show up early and get your photo taken with people in the parade. If you want to take part you’ll have to come dressed appropriately, with a partner and bring thirty candles with you. 

🗝 Watch the traditional dress competitions.

🗝 Check out ofrendas (altars) including interactive altars.

🗝 Watch dance and theatre performances throughout town. You will find live performances all over the place. 

🗝 Visit Paseo Juárez to see the altars in this artistic neighbourhood (here you’ll find the altars from artists, make-up artists, and tattoo artists as well as gastronomic focused altars). 

🗝 Walk through the Andador Independencia where you’ll find a massive installation of cempasuchil flowers.

Tlaquepaque Details

How long to spend in Tlaquepaque

Tlaquepaque itself is a relatively small town. If you’ve explored all the Día de Muertos fun, checked out the small museums, eaten and drunk your fill then you’re good to go. I spent 4-5 days staying in Tlaquepaque and was very happy with my timeframe. It gave us time to head into Guadalajara to explore the museums and to see everything in Tlaquepaque.

How to get to Tlaquepaque

✈️ The nearest airport is Guadalajara’s Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla International Airport, which is no more than a forty minute drive from Tlaquepaque. There are official airport cabs at the airport and Uber is permitted on airport grounds. You can also book a private transfer in advance if you prefer to be met at the airport.

Where to stay in Tlaquepaque

Where else to visit

If you’re in Tlaquepaque you must explore the bigger city of Guadalajara, it’s magnificently beautiful and if you enjoy museums you’ll just fall in love.

Zapopan is another small town like Tlaquepaque that is within the metropolis of Guadalajara but very much has its own character.

The gorgeous pueblo magico of Tequila (photo 1) is just a short drive away. It’s great to visit whether you have just one day or even three days to spend in the home of tequila. If you don’t have a rental car then you could consider taking a tour or even taking the Jose Cuervo tequila train. I love this little town and have been twice, once with my family and once with a group of friends. Both times were truly excellent.

Tapalpa is another pueblo magico up in the hills a few hours from Tlaquepaque and Guadalajara. Locals love to spend their weekends up here relaxing and enjoying outdoorsy activities. (photo 2)

Guachimotones is one of two circular pyramids in Mexico and it’s just a few hours drive from Tlaqaepaque. (photo 3)

Patzcuaro and Isla de Janitzio

What to Expect in Patzcuaro and on Isla de Janitzio

Janitzio is the place to experience Day of the Dead in the state of Michoacan. Janitzio is a small island at the centre of Lake Patzcuaro. People tend to base themselves in the lake-side pueblo magico of Patzcuaro and visit Isla de Janitzio for the Día de los Muertos festivities by boat.

Butterflies feature heavily in daily life in this part of Mexico. The monarch butterfly migration into the state of Michoacan begins around this time and also in this area the fishermen usee large ‘butterfly nets’ to catch their fish.

During Día de Muertos the fishermen ceremoniously fan their nets to create a breeze that will carry the souls of the dead from their watery graves in the lake and up the stairs to the cemetery on Janitzio Island.

This goes hand in hand with the local legend that says when people die, their souls fly like monarch butterflies over an enchanted lake to Lake Patzcuaro to the Island of Janitzio. As you cross the water in your boat, if you open your heart you’ll see their souls in the water of the lake. 

What to Do in Patzcuaro and on Isla Janitzio for Día de Los Muertos

Patzcuaro 

🗝 Watch the performances by the butterfly net fisherman.

🗝 Explore the altars that are erected in businesses and public buildings.

🗝 Enjoy the processions through the streets of Patzcuaro.

🗝 Visit the cemetery.

🗝 Visit one of the villages around the lake on November 1 to experience the candlelit Noche de Muertos.

🗝 From October 30 enjoy the Day of the Dead Artisan Market where you can pick up artisans from craftspeople from across Mexico. 

 Isla Janitzio

🗝 On Isla Janitzio as you wander the streets you’ll see people preparing favourite meals for their returning family members. 

🗝 Danza de los Pescadores – enjoy this tradition where a sacred duck is hunted and cooked for the returning souls in the early hours of the 2nd November. During the night you’ll see the ‘fishermen’ heading out in boats illuminated by numerous candles to hunt this duck. 

🗝 Around midnight on November 1, watch the processions from Tzirumúraro Cemetery where women and children holding torches walk in silence to meet their returning relatives.

Top Tip for visiting Janitzio: While Janitzio is considered the place to go in Michoacan, there are other, less touristy places where you can get involved with the Fiesta de los Muertos, for example, Isla de Pacanda, some fifteen minutes by boat from Ucazanaztacua Dock. There are community hotels on the island.

Jim told me that, “to the native Purepecha people, the cold air is a sign of the spirits returning to the island to spend a couple of days with their friends and family during this incredible tradition.” Whatever the reason, take a sweater. 

Patzcuaro and Janitzio Details

How long to spend in Patzcuaro and Janitzio

You probably don’t need more than a few days here.

How to get to Janitzo

✈️ Morelia is the nearest city with an airport. It’s 1.5 hours from the airport Patzcuaro. There are no buses available here so options are to rent a car, take a cab or book a private transfer.

🚍 It takes about an hour to get to Patzcuaro from Morlia by bus and about forty-five minutes from nearby Uruapan. There are regular buses from both towns. You can also pick up a bus to Patzcuaro in Mexico City.

Where to stay in Patzcuaro or Janitzio

Where else to visit

If you have time then taking a tour to see the monarch butterfly forests (photo 1) would be entirely out of this world. I did this with my family and we still talk about it four years later. It was an experience never to be forgotten. Tours generally leave from Morelia or Mexico Ciy if you don’t have a car to visit under your own steam.

Spend a few days exploring Morelia – its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritagee Site and there are over 200 colonial buildings and even what’s considered to be Mexico’s most striking cathedral.

Take a tour to see the Paricutin Volcano or to Bernal (photo 3), one of my favorite monoliths in the entire world.

Queretaro City is just a three hour drive away. (photo 2)

Guanajuato City, Guanajuato

Guanajuato City, in central Mexico, is one of the most colourful cities in the world, it’s full of culture, good food and is very, very hilly. It’s located in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Oriental, making for some stunning views.

What to Expect from Guanajuato during Día de los Muertos

Definitely expect to do a lot of walking since this is one hilly city!

What to Do in Guanajuato during Dia de Muertos

🗝 Tapetes de arena (sand paintings) – Guanajuato goes big on this traditional art form so be sure to check them all out when you’re exploring the Centro Historico. Tapetes de arena, like the mandala, represent impermanace. They are are made to honour and welcome spirits home.

🗝 Enjoy the ofrendas in shops and homes as you explore the city of Guanajuato.

🗝 Watch the Dia de los Muertos Parade (evening event).

🗝 Marvel at the famous monumental altar built by university students and locals on the steps of the University of Guanajuato to commemorate academic figures from the university. It’s worth seeing by day and after dark when all the candles are lit.

🗝 Check out the large sculptures outside the Teatro Juarez (which is reputedly the second most beautiful building in Mexico after the Palacio de Bellas Artes in CDMX).

🗝 Visit the Panteón de Santa Paula, the local cemetery to wander through the decorated tombs. 

🗝 Tunel de tradicion – I haven’t visited one of these during Día de los Muertos but it seems that during the celebrations, the many tunnels through this hilly city turn into party tunnels.

🗝 There are many contests spread throughout the city over this holiday. These include the ofrenda contest on Plaza los Angeles and the Pan de Muerto contest on Plazuela de San Roque.

🗝 If you speak Spanish, join a callejoneada macabre or a nighttime tour of the city. For Día de los Muertos the callejoneadas (street story tellers) turn spooky. Generally you pick up a tour outside the theatre in Centro. 

Guanajuato Details

How long to spend in Guanajuato

Guanajuato is a gorgeous city to visit all year round. If you can, spend at least four days here taking in the museums, the art galleries and the incredible views. Be sure to make your way to the Pipila statue that overlooks the city because the views down into Centro are incredible. I walked up the many, many steps but there’s also a funicular for those less excited by walking than I am.

How to get to Guanajuato

✈️ Guanjuato airport is actually closer to the city of Leon than it is to the city of Guanajuato but it’s an easy thirty minute drive into Guanajuato city. There are cabs at the airport and Uber is permitted to pick up there. If you prefer to organise a private transfer that’s always possible too.

🚍 Guanajuato’s bus station is just out of town, which makes sense once you’ve been to Guanajato and experienced the narrow tunnls that make up a big part of the road system in town. The city is serviced by ETN buses and Primer Plus buses.

Where to stay in Guanajuato

Where else to visit

The state of Guanajuto is utterly beautiful. Just down the road is a big time favourite of many, San Miguel de Allende. It isn’t one of my favourite cities in Mexico but it’s still worth a visit. The city’s botanical gardens, however, are just wonderful. (photo 1)

Dolores Hidalgo, (photo 2) the birthplace of Mexican independence is an hour’s drive away and it’s less than two hours to one of my favourite towns in Mexico: Mineral de Pozos. (photo 3)

Mexico’s Caribbean Coast and the Riviera Maya

The Caribbean Coast—also known as the Riviera Maya— is located in Quintana Roo and includes three of Mexico’s biggest tourist cities: Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum. Here you will find perfect beaches, incredible hotels and truly, some amazing adventure activities. Oh, and of course, parties.

What to Expect from a Riviera Maya Día de los Muertos 2024

The beauty of an October/November trip to Mexico’s Riviera Maya is that it’s not peak season so there are good deals to be had. The rainy season and hurricane season have both ended too. Good weather and good prices. Sweet.

What to Do on Mexico’s Caribbean Coast During Día de los Muertos 2024

🗝 Experience Día de los Muertos processions, theatrical productions, music, ceremonial food and other traditions in Cancun and at Xcaret Park and other venues,    

🗝 Most of the bigger hotels will have elaborate altars but the best place to see how locals are celebrating Día de los Muertos in Cancun is in Parque de las Palapas in downtown Cancun. Here there are altars, face painting, and a Day of the Dead parade ends here. 

🗝 Playa del Carmen also hosts its own Hanal Pixan parade. 

🗝 Check out what the Xcaret parks have planned because there’s always sure to be unmissable shows in their parks. 

🗝 Find local tours that can show you how locals celebrate 

Check the official Cancun Visitors Bureau for a schedule in October

Caribbean Coast Details

How long to spend on the Caribbean Coast

If you’re interested in exploring the Yucatán Peninsula then you could spend months in the area. Even Cancun has a plethora of incredible activities (that don’t have to break the bank) so try to reserve a least two weeks vacation time for your trip.

How to get to the Caribbean Coast

✈️ One of Mexico’s busiest and best connected airports is Cancun Airport. If your hotel doesn’t offer a free (or cheap) shuttle service then I highly recommend making use of a private transfer because cabs from the airport are extremely expensive and Uber is not permitted. You could, of course, rent a car, if you know you’ll be exploring around the region.

🚍 ADO buses serve all the towns anion the Riviera Maya and inland. You can check timetables and prices on Busbud.

Where to stay on the Caribbean Coast

This, of course, depends on your budget and needs. Cancun is famous for its all-inclusive packages, and there are deals and price ranges to suit (almost) every budget.

Tulum tends to have a more hipster vibe (do not, for one second, imagine hipster means cheaper). Last time I was in Tulum in early 2024, I stayed at Ikal, a glamping site on the beach and it was incredible. I’d return there in a heartbeat.

What else to do

Ooooh, my favourite question: what to do on the Yucatán Peninsula? My six years living here make m the perfect person to answer this question for you.

In the immediate vicinity, you have Isla Mujeres, Cozumel, Bacalar, Holbox to visit.

There are many ruins to visit in Quintana Roo, too.

Once you’ve explored the coast, head inland to the colonial city of Valladolid, (photo 2) Chichen Itza (photo 3) and the cenotes nearby. If you have time, head over to Mérida.

A Few Final Día de los Muertos Facts

What Goes on a Día de los Muertos altar?

☠️ Photos of the deceased

🌼 Cempasúchiles. The smell of these Aztec marigold flowers is said to help souls find their path back home

🌮 Food and drink for the returning souls. Food plays an important role in this festival. In fact, Hanal Pixan means “food for the souls”. After a few hours, it is considered that the ancestors have eaten and the living can then eat the food on the altar. There may well be some water on the altar too, both for purification and to quench the thirst of the returning souls.

🕯 Candles and incense. Each candle represents one soul. There will often be an extra candle for the “forgotten soul”. The incense is in honour of Mexico’s pre-conquest history.

🪅 Decorations such as papel picado and sugar skulls. Papel picado represents the wind and the fragility of life. It is essentially a coloured paper-cut bunting. Sugar skulls are everywhere because the skull is a commonly used symbol of Día de los Muertos.

They say that during Día de Muertos, Mexico smells of cemepasúchil flowers, pan de muerto, and in Yucatán, pib. 

What is La Calavera Catrina? 

🗝 Many of the Day of the Dead papier mache sculptures and the costumes you see on the street are based on La Calavera Catrina.

🗝 La Calavera Catrina began life as an etching created by Jose Guadalupe Posada in the early twentieth century, then incorporated by Diego Rivera into his famous murals. See my personal favourite depiction of a Calavra Catrin in Rivera’s mural “Sueña De Una Tarde Dominical En La Alameda” in CDMX.

🗝 The first etching was actually created as a satirical comment on the Mexican upper classes. It was only later that the figure became associated with Día de Muertos imagery. 

Are there Special Day of the Dead Foods?

Yes. And of course, I highly recommend you try as many as you can.

Tamales – Tamales are an incredibly popular food in Mexico any time of the year, to be honest, and Día de Muertos is just one more excuse to gobble them up. They’re placed on altars as offerings to the dead and they’re consumed in their tons (or so it feels) by the living. If you’re not sure what a tamal is, let me enlighten you: it’s basically corn dough around a filling wrapped in either a corn husk or a banana leaf depending on where you are in Mexico. Every region has its own tamal recipes.

Atole – A traditional Mexican hot corn drink that is drunk (particularly in Yucatán) around this period. Young atole is particularly delicious and I highly recommend trying it. 

Pan de Muerto – A sweet bread with a hint of orange that is coated in sugar and decorated to look as if it has bones on the top. Every pan de muerto is different and some are even filled. It is your mission when in Mexico to try every single one you find. 

Sugar or Amaranth Skulls – These are small decorated skulls made out of either sugar or amaranth (an ancient Mexican superfood). There is sometimes a space for a name on the skull as these are regularly part of an ofrenda. Only the smaller ones are edible; please learn from my mistake.

Mucbipollo – Specific to Yucatán, mucbipollo is more commonly known as ‘pib’ and it’s an extremely popular and delicious dish that is only available at this time of year. It is a square tamal that is made from meat (generally chicken), maize flour, tomato, pig fat, chiles, onion, epazote and xpelón. This mixture is wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in an oven pit in the ground (‘mukbil’ means ‘something buried’ in Mayan). Pib is not a simple or quick food to make, hence its appearance only once a year for this important festival and hence the excitement with which locals await its arrival. 

Día de Los Muertos 2024 FAQs

Can I wear a costume for Día de Muertos?

This very much depends on where you are and what type of costume you mean. Mexicans are very kind and generous people and they’re unlikely to tell you off but you might feel out of place if you’re dressed completely differently to others. I recommend waiting until you arrive and asking people what’s acceptable rather than bringing fancy-dress with you.

Can I get my face painted for Día de Muertos?

Absolutely. You’ll probably find people offering to do it on the main plazas and around the cemeteries. Find out what they’re charging before you sit down.

Is COVID still a thing and could it stop Día de los Muertos celebrations 

2022 saw most Día de los Muertos celebrations back in full force so it’s unlikely that 2024 will be any different unless we have a major regression. In Mexico I always carry a facemask just in case it’s required.

Is Coco a good representation of Dia de los Muertos?

Yes! It is actually. It’s a beautiful and sensitive movie that everyone should watch. The old woman, Coco, is based on a real woman who died in Patzcuaro fairly recently. 

Is Day of the Dead a public holiday in Mexico?

November 2nd is officially a public holiday in Mexico but generally everything will be open as normal.