​Is Mexico for you?

Before my family made a permanent move, we spent six months living in three different locations in Mexico to find where we felt the most comfortable. 

✅ Oaxaca – we love Oaxaca but ultimately didn’t want to live there as we didn’t feel it had the educational opportunities we were looking for and it was hard to find playgrounds for our kids (now there are more than there were when we were looking)

✅ Tulum – for us this wasn’t a place we wanted to bring up kids, even in 2016. We knew nothing about the town before arriving there, spent a happy 5 weeks studying in an excellent Spanish language school but were not sorry to leave

✅ Mérida – found it, baby! Found it. Put kids in school, took more Spanish classes and set to learning about the city. We fell in love.

🪅 We also experienced what it’s like to celebrate Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca and Christmas in Mérida. 

Have a trial run

Moving to Mérida – the basics

How safe is Mexico?

Isn’t this always the biggest question you get when you tell anyone you’re moving to Mexico? Here are my thoughts:

• I’m from London, a city that has its fair share of problems. My kids and I saw a stabbing in broad daylight near our home in London but no one says you shouldn’t go to the UK. 
• My kids cried when I went to the USA on my own because they were convinced I was going to get shot. Of course, I wasn’t but that’s what propaganda does, it scares us into believing other places are more dangerous (and less good) than home. And that was before the whole ‘you know what’ took office.
• Many people who ask this question have been freaked out by news reports coming from, um, perhaps the more conservative spectrum of the US news and political services.
• People in Mexico are incredibly friendly, kind and welcoming. I read the papers, I know what’s going on in certain regions but I don’t think that should put people off visiting a place altogether.

If I’m asked if there are places in Mexico I wouldn’t visit for safety reasons, my answer is that I always ask around, find out where Mexicans are worried about, not where international agencies are highlighting. I wouldn’t write anywhere off without doing my own research so I implore you to do the same. Keep an open mind and ask yourself if an entire country can really be bad.

So what about Mérida? Is Mérida safe?

✅ Yes. It is safe to live in Mérida. In fact, Mérida is one of the safest cities in Mexico and the second safest city in all of North America.

The State of Yucatan takes safety very seriously. There are police checks along the road as you enter the state and there are more police checks as you enter the city of Mérida. 

I’m obviously not promising you a zero crime rate. People are people, and we all know people can be shitty wherever you are even if we hope the good people out number the bad.

You can walk around many areas of Mérida at night without worry, pickpocketing is rare and you’ll never have to worry about your kids being shot at school.

Other safety issues in Merida

💧 Water: No. We do not drink the water. It won’t kill you if you do drink it but it might give you kidney stones due to the high mineral content. Always buy garafones (large water bottles that are delivered) for your house. You can drink ‘purified water’, juices, agua frescas and have ice in your drinks on the streets and in restaurants because no one drinks the water so everything is made with clean water.

🚗 Driving: I tend to think of Yucatecans as incredibly calm people until they get behind the wheel of a car and then they can be more aggressive (massive silly stereotype but if you do the car-dance on Technologico four times a day you’ll soon see what I mean). Some people definitely drink and drive but I absolutely don’t recommend it (obviously) because it’s dangerous and also because there are police checks, particularly when leaving the beach areas at the weekends. 

➕ Read the MexicoCassie guide to renting cars and driving in Yucatán

🚨 General Crime: Yes, there is some but it doesn’t seem to be endemic. I don’t actually know anyone who has been pick-pocketed, for example. Houses do get broken into, especially when there are empty homes next door but if you’re sensible with security this shouldn’t be an issue.

🏳️‍🌈 🏳️‍⚧️ Sexuality and Gender: Mérida hosts its own wonderful Pride event and is a pretty tolerant society. “Live and let live” seems to be how it goes here, particularly with relation to foreigners. PDAs aren’t huge in Merida regardless of your orientation. There are a few queer positive bars and cafes in town.

💉 Drugs: The rules around weed, currently, seems to be confusing everyone. Owning it and growing it, I think, has been decriminalised as long as you have registered with the government. CBD oil is everywhere but don’t necessarily expect it to (legally) have THC in it. There are moves to legalise all drugs within Mexico but this hasn’t happened yet. Unless you’re sure, probably easiest not to.

How do you cope with the climate in Mérida?

🔥 You’ve probably heard rumours about the weather in Mérida, right? They’re true. It’s not just regular hot, it’s an inferno kinda hot for a good portion of the year. Now, personally, I’m not super bothered by heat but I know I’m abnormal. I’m pretending I’m a normal human and not a 🦎 while I write this section.

☀️ The hottest part of the year is April – September (temperatures reaching 45℃) but it’s not just hot, it’s sweaty, humid dripping wet hot.

☔️ June – August, is the rainy season, and you will experience rain and storms. Generally when it rains it crazy-rains for an hour or two and then clears up (this is called an aguacero). When you first arrive in Mérida you may wonder why some curbs are so high. Once you see the rains and how some streets flood you’ll understand!

🥶 October – March is utterly magical as far as climate goes. There may be a few days or even weeks where it’s cold enough for sweaters and blankets (known locally as the ‘heladez’, or ‘the big freeze’. Really it’s around 20℃). 

How to find a house in Merida

🏠 You have a number of options available to you for finding a house in Merida.

When first moving to Mérida, many people assume that they will want to live in Mérida’s centro, the historic center where the houses are generally built in what’s known as a colonial style and truly beautiful.

But this isn’t all that Mérida has to offer. Mérida’s housing market, just like any city, is complex but can be broken down into the following areas:

We’ll take a quick look at all of them.

💨 😎 When choosing a house in Mérida, think about air circulation and how you like to cool down. Personally, I am not a massive fan of A.C. so we needed a house that had good ventilation and a pool. 🧭 Houses on the north-south axis tend to have better air -flow than others. Be sure to consider how much shade a house has. Confirm that the windows open in houses you’re looking at.

Renting in Mérida’s Centro

If you’re thinking about moving to Mérida, chances are you’re imagining yourself living in a beautifully restored colonial home in Centro. This is part of the draw of Mérida for many and Centro is undeniably beautiful.

📌 You may find that prices are higher than you expect, easily hitting a minimum of a cool $1,500 USD a month if you’re expecting to live in an decent place with all the amenities and a pool.

✅ Pros: Close to the centre of the city, close to the bars and restaurants and cultural activities. Mérida English Library is in the centre too. Many retirees and immigrants (yeah I don’t use the term ‘expat’, sorry) live in this part of town.

❌ Cons: Centro can be noisy. There are many bars and bus routes to consider. You never know when and where a new bar will pop up. Zoning laws can be, um, tricky to navigate. Many streets are on bus routes (not all, by any stretch but it’s worth taking into account), which can make life noisy and more polluted than other parts of town. I also think it can be hotter in centro than other areas of the city because the houses are closer together and there are fewer green spaces. Parking isn’t always easy.

Renting in Middle Mérida

 I’m using this term loosely to cover the areas that typically aren’t very ‘foreign’. It includes, Itzimna, Campestre,  Colonia Mexico, Montes de Ame, Xcumpich, Garcia Gineres, Chuburna de Hidalgo, around Parque Aleman etc.

This is my favourite area of the city. The houses are fairly mixed in terms of style, age and size, but there’s often more space than in centro. Many of the houses were built by Mexicans with money who wanted to live ‘outside of centro’ in the 70s and 80s. Many of these owners now have moved north to the more modern areas or the privadas. Not all houses have a pool in this area. You will find some very cheap houses, some very expensive houses and everything in between in this area. With a pool you’re probably looking at a minimum of $1,000 a month in rent.

✅ Pros: There’s more space, the roads are quieter, life is calmer. In many of these areas you’ll be living alongside Mexican families and you may well get a better feel for local culture. Parking is easier. 

❌ Cons: You’re neither in the north with all the modern conveniences but nor are you in the centre with many of the great restaurants and cultural activities.

Karina has been living in Mérida since April 2017, having moved here from Mexico City. She chose Mérida because she feels it’s a good place to raise children due to its safety. She lived in Campestre, where she found a nice church and playground, before moving to the Prolongación de Montejo.

Renting in North Mérida 

There is a great deal of building going on in Mérida and much of it is in the north. Here, many people choose to live live in privadas (private estates, often with their own facilities). Privadas can be small or large, each has its own personality. 

As Mérida grows, privadas spring up across the area between Mérida and the beach. This is locally referred to as “The Monte”. The long established and exclusive Country Club and the Polo Club are both in this area, too.

✅ Pros: Many of the malls and best schools are in the north – taking in both sides of the pereferico (ring road). There are houses to suit all budgets. You’re closer to Progreso and the coast.

❌ Cons: Distance from town and many of the facilities. Privadas in the Monte sometimes require satellite internet as there is no general coverage here yet. 

Jeannie and her family moved to a small privada in north Mérida from Veracruz for work in 2016.  She really likes it because it’s a very safe and quiet privada. 

Renting in South Mérida 

Many people say the south of Mérida is less desirable than the rest of the city. It has a reputation for being edgy. I lived on the southern edge of centro for a while and really enjoyed it. 

This area, La Ermita is now one of the most popular barrios in Mérida! I know there are foreigners living in the south who really love it and wouldn’t move for anything. They say it’s Mérida’s well kept secret. I used to live in Camberwell, an ‘edgy’ part of London and loved it so I fully understand this feeling.

✅ Pros: You’ll get more for your money. Living in a truly Mexican part of Mérida.

❌ Cons: Far from some of the most modern amenities and malls as well as the schools in the north that so often foreigners choose for their kids. Takes a long time to get to the beach.

Living at the the beach

Many people prefer to live actually in Progreso, Chuburna or Chelem than in Mérida. There is a growing foreigner community along the Yucatan coast and this grows every winter as the ‘snow birds’ come for six months to escape the Canadian and northern US winters.

✅ Pros: You have the beach on your doorstep.

❌ Cons: Fewer choices than there are in Mérida. You may find yourself coming into Mérida for big shops and malls although there are more and more stores and amenities opening at the beach all the time.

➕ Yucatán’s incredible beaches are some of the most family friendly beaches in all of Mexico.

So, that’s the basic idea of how the city splits but how about actually finding a house? Well, from abroad your options are:

• Airbnb/VRBO – Mérida is a popular destination for visitors and foreign residents. There is no shortage of houses on Airbnb to choose from. If you’re going to stay for a while be sure to haggle. Good for furnished short-term lets.
• Vivanuncios – This site is in Spanish and is good for people looking for longer term rentals. It’s mainly unfurnished houses though.
• Facebook – There are plenty of Facebook groups for people looking to rent houses, both in English and Spanish. Well worth doing some searching.
• Real estate agents – Mérida has no shortage of real estate agents. Some of these are specifically catering to the non-Spanish speaking market. Prices are generally higher through them and you may find that a short-term rent doesn’t follow the true legal rental system. 
• There are also plenty of real estate agents dealing with the local market who are more than happy to show foreigners their wares. Some agents have websites but others will be found by walking around and seeing ‘se vende’ or ‘se renta’ on houses (for sale and for rent). You then call the number on the sign and get to meet agents that way. 
• It’s also possible to find housesitting opportunities in Mérida.

🐾 If you plan on bringing your dog with you, read the MexicoCassie guide to living in Mérida with a dog 

→ My book, Moving to Mérida, has lots of helpful advice and tips for renting and buying houses in Mérida, setting up utilities, food shopping and kitting out your house. It’s really a no-brainer. Moving to Mérida, need this book 😉.

☃ 🦅 Do note that we have an active ‘snow-bird’ season from November – March here where prices rise and houses can be hard to find if you leave it to the last minute.

How to find a school in Mérida

If you have kids and you’re considering moving to Merida then you’ll be wondering about education. Spend ten minutes in the city and you’ll realise there are sooooo many schools, but how do you find the right school for your kids? Most foreigners living in Mérida opt for either private schools or homeschooling.

We opted to put our kids in Spanish speaking private schools. We felt that our kids would learn better and integrate better if they picked up Spanish as fast as possible. We supplemented with after-school Spanish lessons for a term and after one year our kids were fluent but not bilingual.  

So how do you find that school? 

📲 Do be aware that many schools simply won’t get back to you if you send an email. They may pick up the phone but they may not (I’m serious). If you can, your best bet is to show up on the doorstep and ask to be shown around. Please don’t take this lack of response as indicative of the school or its ability to teach your kids though.

🗓️ Open days tend to be early in the year–Jan-Feb generally—and entrance exams are sat between Jan -April. I recommend getting in touch with your chosen schools for more details on their individual timetables. You’re unlikely to be able to get your child into a popular school outside of these dates, it’s not impossible but it is much less likely than it was. Many schools are over-subscribed and have long weight lists.

→ My book, Moving to Mérida, has lots of helpful advice and tips for finding schools in Mérida

Medical care in Mérida

💊 As a foreigner, you’ll probably want to get medical insurance. Residents are entitled to IMSS (Mexico health care) but I recommend following Mexican advice and getting private health care. This gives you access to the best hospitals in Merida, including our favourites, Clinica de Merida in the south and Faro in the north.

→ My book, Moving to Mérida, has lots of helpful advice and tips for medical, dental and even pet health in Mérida

What’s connectivity like in Mérida?

💻 Wifi is actually really good and there are a number of options for your home. Tel-Cel and izzi tend to be the most popular. We chose izzi and it’s always been great. When our house was struck by lightning and the wifi router died, they came round within a day  to replace it. Bills are paid online.

💻 The whole city is pretty well connected. Most cafes and restaurants have free wifi as do many public spots such as Paseo de Montejo and Plaza Grande.

📲 Mobile phones are simple. Just show up with an unlocked phone, buy a new sim card and you’re ready to go. I like the monthly ‘paquete’ on Tel-Cel but the Oxxo own brand sim is also a good deal.

Of course, in my book about Moving to Mérida you can find more information about connectivity. 

Transport in Merida

If you don’t have a car, it’s still easy to get around the city with taxis, buses, mini-buses and on foot. There are even bike-lanes in the city of Mérida. The Va-y-Ven bus system has modernised much of the city’s bus options.

🚗 My personal opinion is that buying a car makes sense if you’re going to be living in Mérida. There’s so much to see and do outside of the city as well as around the city so you’re not going to want to rely on (expensive) tours or (non-convenient) public transport to get around. Trips to the supermarket or the mall or the playground are always easier if you have a car. Mérida is a very American city in that it’s more set up for cars than walking due to the heat and to the distance between places.

→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to getting around Mérida

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to driving in Yucatán

🚆 The Maya Train offers transport options between tourist cities and sites on the Peninsula.

⭐️ My book, Moving to Mérida, has lots of helpful advice and tips for buying a car in Mérida

How much does it cost to live in Mérida?

💰 How long is a piece of string? 😂 Seriously, the cost of living in Mérida really depends on your needs, the size of your family, the age of your car etc. We barely used A.C so our electricity bills are lower than many of our friends’.

💰 Are you going to have the A.C on 24/7? Do you live on 🍣 and 🥂 or 🫘 and 🚰?

💰 Mérida is no longer as cheap as it was. Inflation is real and I’m pretty sure a lot of it is down to an influx  of foreigners to the city (both Mexican and international). In my book, Moving to Mérida, I share a breakdown of my family’s average annual spend to help you get an idea what a mid-level family of four spends in a year. 

How do I recycle in Merida?

♻️ You may be surprised to know that Merida is actually a fairly green city. There’s a lot going on if you just know where to look. I’ve written three articles specifically about recycling, reusing and living a sustainable life in Merida.

If you’re looking for information on vegan restaurants in Merida, zero-waste markets or eco-friendly cafes, shops and hotels, begin with the MexicoCassie guide to sustainable tourism in Mérida, it has a lot of great info for you.

→ My book, Moving to Mérida, has lots of helpful advice and tips for living ethically in Mérida including where and how to recycle and shop ethically

If Mérida isn’t for you, that’s ok

This is why we recommend coming and trying it out. See how you adapt to living in Mérida, do you find your place, your people, your home? If you don’t love it, you don’t have to stay. That’s ok too.