When is the best time to visit Sevilla?

☀️ Summer – Truthfully, calling Seville hot is an understatement. During the summer it can feel as if you’re melting if you’re on the streets between 10 am – 10 pm. If you do come in summer, be prepared to take it slow and use my guide to Seville in the summer to help you figure out how best to explore without overheating. 

🍁 Autumn – As the days cool down Seville starts to get lively again and you can have a great time exploring this beautiful city. Seville’s ‘Noche en Blanco’ is held in autumn & you’ll find plenty of free evening activities spread across the city. 

3 days in Sevilla itinerary overview

Okay, so now let’s dive into the details

Day 1 – Acclimatise yourself

Morning: City tour

Begin your first day with a tour of the city. This way you’ll have a good feel for where you want to go and how to get around for the rest of your time in Sevilla.

Afternoon – Exploring alone

Once you’re done with your tour, find a spot for lunch in the Jewish Quarter (also known as Barrio Santa Cruz). One of my favourite restaurants is Sal Gorda  and I also very much enjoy dining on the Plaza de la Alfalfa.

➕ Sites to notice: Hospital de los Venerables, India Archives (free to visit), Torre del Oro (great views over the river, free to visit) & the Plaza del Cabildo, Plaza del Duque & the Museo de Bellas Artes, or the absolutely magnificent Casa de Pilatos (pictured above).

Evening: Flamenco time

Flamenco performances generally last around an hour so it’s a perfect evening activity if you’re not into staying out late, and if you are, you can find a restaurant afterwards and join the locals in an evening meal.

There are dozens of excellent flamenco venues around Sevilla, where you end up really depends on where you’re staying, what time you want to see a performance & your comfort requirements.

If you value comfort most of all then I recommend the Teatro de Flamenco. Here you sit in comfortable theatre style seats and watch a really top quality show (photo above). For a smaller, more intimate venue, the far less flashy but still equally magnificent Museo de Baile Flamenco is a wonderful option. And if you thrive on chaos and don’t mind not being super comfortable, you could try the Peña Cultural Torres Macarena (no reservations so everyone shows up early). 

→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to flamenco venues & performances in Sevilla

⭐️ MexicoCassie flamenco tour top recommendation:  Devour Tapas & Flamenco evening tour – the tour visits 2 tapas bars where you’ll try 8 different tapas plates (enough for a full meal) and drinks. You learn all about flamenco prior to watching a fabulous performance at one of the city’s top venues.

Day 2

Morning: Real Alcázar de Sevilla and gardens (Royal Palace)

Your second day in Sevilla begins at the Alcázar because the best way to see this magnificent palace is to get there as early as possible. If you can manage an early morning start then I would highly recommend booking the exclusive Walks Early Access tour, which gets you into the Alcazar before it officially opens.

Every day the Alcázar allows just two groups of up to 20 people to enter before it opens to the general public. I have been part of the “general public”, one of the 7,000 people that visit the Alcazar every. single. day. And I have been lucky enough to be one of the “exclusive tour members”. I can tell you that there is simply nothing like exploring the Alcazar when it’s still peaceful and quiet. Just look at the photo above, it’s practically impossible to get this shot if you go during regular opening hours.

Brief history of the Alcazar 

The beautiful Alcazar of Sevilla was originally built by the Moorish rulers of Spain but was adapted and modified by the Catholic Monarchs when they conquered Sevilla (1248). Today it is considered one of the best examples of Mudéjar (blended Moorish and Christian) architecture in the world. Along with the cathedral and the Archivo de Indias, the Alcazar is part of the Sevilla UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The first fortified building on this site has been dated to the early eighth century during the Caliphate of Córdoba. In 913, Abd al-Rahman III built a fort here, apparently over the remains of a Visigoth church (the Visigoths ruled over much of Spain from the decline of the Roman Empire in Spain to the time the Moors arrived). 

😎 Cool Fact: The Alcazar was the setting for important historical moments such as the wedding of Carlos V (the first Holy Roman Emperor) and Isabella of Portugal. Some of the Game of Thrones scenes were filmed here too. 

What to see in the Alcazar

✅ As you tour the Alcazar you won’t want to miss: 

• Patio de las Doncellas – The Maiden’s Courtyard. This is the main shebang in the Alcazar. Here you’ll find the main courtyard with the reflecting pool, sunken gardens and gorgeous arches. It’ll also likely be full of other people unless you book onto the early access tour.
• Patio de Leviés – fewer people find their way to this patio where there is a less grandiose pool than on the Patio de las Doncellas. I love it here. 
• Patio de las Muñecas – Dolls Courtyard. A private courtyard in the palace – see if you can spot the dolls. I’ve only ever found 2. 
• Salon de Embajadores (Ambassadors’ Hall or the Throne Room) – this is the biggest and most impressive room in the whole palace. Don’t forget to look up and see the half-orange dome, referred to as the Mudejar version of the Sistine Chapel.
• Salon de los Tapices – Tapestry Room
• Tile Exhibition
• Baños de Doña Maria de Padilla – a striking underground crypt filled with water
• The Gardens – leave yourself time to visit the gardens because they are beautiful. And if you can, climb the stairs up to the Galleria de Grutesco for gorgeous views over the gardens.

→ Buy your ticket now

➕ Bonus: When walking to the Alcazar be sure to walk along Calle de Agua and Calle de la Judería, both gorgeous little streets.

Afternoon: Palacio de las Dueñas & the Antiquarium

After lunch (find somewhere near the Alcazár – I’ve really enjoyed Bodeguita Antonio Romero, or on your walk over to the Palacio find a spot to enjoy)

Palacio de las Dueñas

This palace was built between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries and has been home to some big names in Spanish history. Today it is a private residence belonging to the House of Alba.

Palacio de las Dueñas is something of a quiet gem in Sevilla. For me, the most wonderful thing about this place is its gardens and courtyards. While they’re smaller and not as showy as the Alcázar gardens, I really loved the sense of complete peace I felt while walking around this place. 

→ Skip the lines and buy your ticket in advance

Antiquarium

Underneath Las Setas you’ll find this small archaeological site, which I think is an absolute hidden gem of Sevilla and I highly recommend heading in if you have any interest in the region’s Roman history.

This is a modern, well-presented archaeological museum where you can follow paths through the ruins of Roman and Moorish Seville. The site was discovered when excavating for a carpark in 2003.

✅ There are eleven areas of remains including seven columned houses with mosaics, salting vats (very common in Roman ruins in this area) and streets. The best preserved is a house from the 5th century CE called Casa de la Columna.

Evening: Las Setas de Sevilla

I recommend not leaving this area so you can see Las Setas after dark because this is the best time to be here. If you have a while before sunset, grab a drink or go for a stroll until it’s dark and then head up to The Levels, the walkways on the top of the Las Setas structure.

“Las Setas” (The Mushrooms) is the popular name for Metropol Parasol, a fascinating wooden structure that towers over Plaza de la Encarnacion. This plaza was the city centre of old Sevilla and it has a long history dating back to the Roman period. 

→ Buy your tickets in advance, or line up on the day and hope they haven’t sold out.

🍽 Enjoy tapas on Plaza del Salvador when you’re finished.

Day 3 

Morning: Plaza de España

The Plaza de España is really the most famous and one of the most beautiful landmarks in all of Sevilla for both tourists and locals alike. Built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exhibition (of 1929). 

The Plaza de España has been in both Star Wars II and Lawrence of Arabia. It was also in Netflix shows, The Dictator & more recently, Kaos.

✅ All around the building are 48 tiled alcoves each representing a Spanish province (except for Seville which is featured elsewhere and one of the Canary Island provinces which didn’t exist in 1928). Each has a mural and a map of the province.

✅ You will see four bridges in the courtyard; these represent the four ancient kingdoms of Spain: Castile, Léon, Aragon, and Navarre. The bridges traverse a 500 m-long canal and it’s possible to rent small boats and row along here. Because of this canal it’s sometimes called the Venice of Seville. 

✅ Many of the buildings are government offices (including where foreigners like me go to get residency paperwork sorted) but the Military History Museum is housed there too. 

➕ Take a stroll through Parque Maria Luisa while you’re here and if you’re into horse-drawn carriages, this is one place to pick them up. (€50 per ride). The park has around 100 acres of paths, gardens, and patios. I love spending an hour or so just relaxing here especially when green parrots fly overhead. See if you can find Monté Gurugú.

➕ Bonus Activity: the delightful Museo de Artes y Costumbres is in the park, as is the (currently closed for refurbishments) Archaeological Museum and if you’re visiting with kids, the Seville Aquarium is nearby.

Afternoon – Cathedral & La Giralda

Use your final afternoon to visit Seville’s beautiful cathedral, part of the trio that makes up the Seville UNESCO World Heritage Site (along with the Alcázar and the nearby India Archives).

This is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and well worth your time. Much like Córdoba’s famous Mezquita, this cathedral actually began life as a mosque. It was converted into a cathedral after the Christians took Seville. The cathedral we see today was completed in 1506. There are many famous artworks to be spotted while exploring the cathedral including works by Goya and Murrillo. Look out for Christopher Columbus’ extravagant resting place here too. 

If you have the energy, I recommend climbing the Giralda for fabulous views over the cathedral, the Alcazar & the old city. The Giralda tower is not ascended with steps but instead with ramps. There are thirty-five ramps that are all wide enough for the Sultan to ride a horse to the top!!

Early evening: Independent Republic of Triana

Spend the late afternoon meandering through the streets of the “Independent Republic of Triana”, on the other side of the river, to check out their long history as the glazed tile-making area. By visiting at this time of day you miss the famous market but I don’t really think that matters much (most blogs will tell you to eat a meal here but I’m not most blogs. I think there is far higher quality food and more atmosphere in the city restaurants than in the market).

Centro Ceramica Triana – just behind the market you’ll find this good and non-touristy museum. Around here you’ll also find great shops for picking up a souvenir or two. The last remaining authentic ceramics workshops in Seville are found in the Triana neighborhood. 

➕ Bonus: If you’re interested, take a class while you’re in Triana. Most people choose either a Market and Tapas Class or a ceramic or tile-making class.

🆓 The museum in the Castillo de San Jorge has exhibitions as well as a small archaeological exhibition. The most interesting thing about this spot though is that this was once the headquarters of the Inquisition – sadly there’s nothing really to learn here but it’s definitely quite chilling when you stop and really think about what this means.

🏨 Where to stay in Sevilla

How to get to, and around, Seville

✈️ Seville’s airport is 10 km from the city. There is a dedicated bus service to/from the airport and it is well serviced by cabs (including uber). 

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to travelling between the airport & Seville

🚆 Seville’s train station is called Santa Justa and like everything else in the city, it’s pretty centrally located. If you want to use the trains I recommend booking in advance as it’s cheaper & trains do often sell out

→ Check train timetables & book your tickets on RailEurope

🚌 There are 2 bus stations in Seville: Plaza de las Armas and Prado de San Sebastian. Buses cover the country and also go to Tavira, Faro and further afield in Portugal. 

→ Check bus timetables & book your tickets on Busbud 

🚗 If you’re just visiting Sevilla you probably don’t need a car but if you plan on exploring around the region, renting & driving is the best option.

→ Check rental options & reserve here

→ Read the MexicoCassie guide to driving around southern Spain

→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to driving around Spain