Getting to and from Vitoria-Gasteiz

How long do you need in Vitoria?

Most people visit as a day trip from either Bilbao or San Sebastián, which is what I did. Honestly, I’d rather have stayed longer as I really liked Vitoria. 2 or 3 days would be a great amount of time to really get under the skin of the city. 

Why is Vitoria Gasteiz worth visiting?

OK, so let’s really look at why Vitoria Gasteiz is worth visiting.

🌳 It’s so green

⛫ Historically important & interesting

Most people visiting Vitoria will spent their time in the small but delightful casco viejo so let’s first take a look at its origins: Before Vitoria came into existence, there was already a small Basque settlement (Gasteiz) located in the Álava plains. In 1181, King Sancho VI of Navarre founded a city, “Nova Victoria” in its place in an effort to control trade routes between his kingdom and Castile. 

This is actually one of the best preserved old town in all of Spain.  Notice: the streets are named after the trades that were important in the town: Cuchillería – Knife-makers, Herrería – Blacksmiths, Zapatería – Shoemakers

​As you explore, keep an eye out for:

​Old city walls – (photo above) built at the end of the 11th century as defensive walls, these walls are still standing in some places 

Cathedral of Santa Maria (Old Cathedral) – this gorgeous ancient gothic cathedral is a highlight of a visit to Vitoria (unless you’re me when you opt for more political street art over religion 😉). This is a 13th century building that is attached to the 11th century city wall. There is a 14th century portico and a bell tower (also open) that dates from the 16/17 centuries. It’s recommended to book your visit in advance.

➕ Don’t miss the statue of Ken Follett just outside the cathedral – it’s here because of his inclusion of the building in his awesome book, “A World Without End”, the second in the famous & brilliant Kingsbridge series. 

The Torre de la Anda (pictured above) is the oldest medieval defensive tower of Vitoria Gasteiz. It was built in the 15th century, and currently it houses a bar!

El Portalón is not visible in this photo. It’s a really cool building on the other side of the plaza. Between the 15th and 20th centuries it served as a post house. Today it is a gorgeous restaurant.

Just outside the old city you’ll also find:

Plaza de la Virgen Blanca – on this gorgeous plaza you’ll find an enormous sculpture that was installed here in 2012 to celebrate the city being named a European Green Capital. The Vitoria Gasteiz sign is also here (photo further up in article).  

Plaza del Machete – nice views here as you walk by (photo of cathedral below taken from here)

Museums to not miss in Vitoria Gasteiz

Bibat Museum  

There are two museums here, I only visited one of them. Here you’ll find both the Archaeology Museum and the Playing Cards Museum. The Archaeology Museum is excellent, very informative and well done (with everything in Euskera, Spanish and English). If we’d have had more time I’d have visited the Playing Cards Museum too, because I adore weird museums.

Memorial to the Victims of Terrorism

Located on the edge of the casco viejo, this was the biggest draw for me when planning our time in Vitoria. It’s practically impossible to spend time in Euskadi / The Basque Country without learning something about the region’s difficult and turbulent past. I’m not going to get into it here because I am not capable of doing it justice. I am, however, keen to learn as much as I can, hence my visit to the museum. I’m also reading novels and history books to ensure I don’t remain ignorant of the region’s grievances, how they were dealt with and the part they played in forming the realities of modern Spain. 

The museum was informative, moving & fascinating, however, I was always aware that a big chunk of the story was missing. There was very little that dealt with the reasons for Basque calls for independence, the history of the region or its culture separate to that of Spain or how the region was treated by Madrid, all factors that led to the emergence of groups such as ETA (I’m not condoning terrorism, by the way, but I am clear that terrorism doesn’t grow from nothing).

We found that this museum was a great place to take our kids while we were in Bilbao as it gave us an opportunity to discuss some big topics with them.

Artium – Contemporary Art Museum

 I went. I didn’t love it but I’m a bit of a philistine who doesn’t really understand much about modern art. If you’re a fan, people tend to say it’s very good. I was excited to visit. (My kids loved the small library where they could wait for me).

Museum of Fine Arts 

Located in the Augstin Zulueta Palace, this is considered to be a good art collection.

Murals and street art

It would be pretty difficult to explore Vitoria without noticing the incredible proliferation of murals, street art & graffiti everywhere. There are currently 18 murals on the official mural itinerary (Itinerario Muralistico) around Vitoria. I didn’t actually know about it when I was there but I did see four of them without even trying.

There’s also plenty of street art that’s not officially on the itinerary but that certainly wowed me. It may not be as impressive or as large but personally, I’m a sucker for political street art.

Food

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