Las Arenas de Cabrales, Asturias – everything you need to know

Published by Cass on

green text box: las arenas de cabrales, gateway to the picos de europa 4 photos of the town, 1 of clouds over buildings, 1 of mountain view, one of river, one of bike sculpture

On first glance, Las Arenas de Cabrales might be a small town but it’s actually a bustling and important gateway to the magnificent Picos de Europa mountain range.

If you’re planning on spending any time in the Picos de Europa, you’ll most likely pass through here even if you don’t choose to stay in town. 

Las Arenas is a beautiful little town with stunning panoramic views, great hotels & restaurants, supermarkets, banks, hiking gear stores, souvenir stores and more. The region, excitingly, is also famous for cheese! 

My friend and I stayed here for the first half our our Picos de Europa adventure and really enjoyed ourselves. 

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Las Arenas is a great base for

Day hikes

mountain hike route

Ruta del Cares (Poncebos)

One of the most famous hikes in all of Spain is easily accessed from Las Arenas.

The Ruta del Cares begins just a ten minute drive from Las Arenas, in Poncebos (to be very clear, Poncebos basically doesn’t exist – it’s a spot with three hotels and the Bulnes funicular, don’t expect anything else).

🚙 Car or cab (€10 ish)

🅿️ If you’re driving, you will hopefully find a space on the road around the funicular (in summer this is harder than during the rest of the year).

🚌 The bus goes from the car park in Las Arenas to the funicular – Alsa. Buses depart Las Arenas on the hour from 8:00-13:00 & 17:00-19:00 Buses run from June to mid October 

Check the Alsa Bus schedule

The hike is a magnificent 12km route through the canyon from Poncebos to Caín. Most people also walk the return journey as it’s actually a 2.5hr drive from Caín to Las Arenas.

🥾 The first section of this hike is a tiring 2km on a constant incline before it levels out into an easy but long path all the way to Caín. The views are spectacular the entire route.

When we walked this route we clocked 27km as we’d left the car a little way from the official start of the route. At the Caín end of the hike there is a spot with cafés where you can grab a drink or sandwich and go to the bathroom.

Other day hikes

Ruta Vegas de Sotres (part of the GR-202, Ruta de Reconquista)

field full of black and brown sheep in a valley, blue skies

Our decision for a second hike was to head to Sotres (see below for village info) and then spend the day enjoying a fairly easy hike through the valley here.

From the parking spot to the village Vegas de Sotres is 6km in each direction.

Ruta de Bulnes / Ruta La Canal del Texu (part of the GR-202, Ruta de Reconquista)

The village of Bulnes is reached only by foot or funicular.

Distance 4km each way. Around 2 hour hike.

The hike is considered to be moderately difficult as there are some steep sections. If it’s rained recently, beware of mud.

Ruta Río Casaño

green river surrounded by lush green trees

An 7km gentle circular walk to/from the village of La Molina.

Visiting beautiful villages

penny farthing style bike (sculpture) where the wheel is a cabrales cheese made of concrete

Las Arenas de Cabrales itself is a beautiful village to enjoy a stroll around. The Río Casaño and the Río Cares meet just outside of town. The are some fun shops to explore here, including hiking supply stores (more hiking shoes in one place than I’ve seen in a long time) as well as souvenir stores and delicatessen / cheese shops.

→ The small tourist information office here is extremely helpful and informative so I highly recommend visiting if you’re not sure what you want to do while in the area.

👣 You can take a great tour of Las Arenas, Bulnes and the Garganta de Cares from Cangas de Onís, Oviedo or Gijon → find more info here

Sotres

looking over mountain village, roof in foreground is pretty much caved in

Sotres is the highest village in the Picos de Europa at 1,050m above sea level, and like Las Arenas, it is famous for its cheese. It’s a pleasant village to stroll around and there are a few bars and hotels here.

🏨 Sotres would also be a lovely place to base yourself if you love peace and quiet → check hotel options now

Bulnes

view of a small outdoor cafe through the trees

If you aren’t hiking up to Bulnes, then the funicular is your friend.

Bulnes sits 650m above sea level and is surrounded by peaks of over 1,600m. Fewer than 50 people live in the village but it does a decent trade in catering to visitors who stop in for the night for for lunch/a drink.

Bulnes is a village of two parts. The funicular drops you off close to Bulnes de Abajo (also known as La Villa). Once you’ve had a drink here you can walk up to Bulnes de Arriba (also known as Barrio del Castillo). If you walk from Poncebos, you’ll probably follow the path La Canal del Texu.

From Bulnes de Abajo you can take a short 10 minute uphill walk to the Naranjo de Bulnes viewpoint (photo above). It’s worth it.

🏨 If staying up here appeals, check out La Casa de Chiflón

🎟️ Funicular prices

Adults €17.61 / €22.16 (one way / return), kids €4.32 / €6.71

You can buy tickets in advance here, or in person when you arrive

👣 You can take a great tour of Las Arenas, Bulnes and the Garganta de Cares from Cangas de Onís, Oviedo or Gijon → find more info here

Eating cheese

You may have heard of Queso de Cabrales and if you have, you may have deduced that it’s from this region, the Cabrales region. Makes sense. So while you’re here, of course, it also makes sense to try some, right?

Cueva del queso de Cabrales

rows of round cheeses

A short walk from the centre of Las Arenas is this cheese cave where you can take a guided tour through a, yup, cheese cave. You’ll learn all about the historical and modern processes of making this cheese before being given some tasters along with a dash of local cider.

The tour is in Spanish but anyone who doesn’t speak Spanish is handed an Ipad with a translation of the tour.

→ Visit the official site to book your tour

Quesería Vega de Tordín

A short drive out of town you can visit this quesería for a 45 minute tour of their installations and cheese tasting experience. Kids are also invited to interact with the animals on the farm here.

Miradores/look out points

In this spectacular region, it’s barely necessary to find a mirador for great views but none-the-less, there are some worth visiting.

Póo

view of the naranjo de bulnes - an impressive monolith sticking up from the snow capped mountains

In Póo, the next village along, you can both pretend not to giggle at the name, and marvel at the incredible views of the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu) from the mirador.

Mirador de las Cuevas

A little further along you’ll find the Mirador de las Cuevas where you can enjoy beautiful views and a little forest frolic should you so wish.

Mirador de las Estazadas

Near the village of Canales is this mirador with delightful views over the gorgeous landscape of mountains and valleys.

Useful information

Where to stay in Las Arenas de Cabrales

🏨 We stayed in the Hotel Picos de Europa and it was fantastic, I highly recommend it. The rooms are perfect, large, clean, great beds, perfect showers (also a separate bath, which we made use of), and the staff are amazing and the food fabulous. 

→ Reserve your stay

→ Check out other hotels

Where to eat in Las Arenas de Cabrales

🍽️ We ate fantastic breakfasts in our hotel, and suppers in two excellent restaurants

Sidrería La Zapica – slightly more upmarket and very popular. We didn’t reserve but I think we were lucky to get a table. 

Santelmo Restaurante – more lowkey, they have a lunch time menu del día and serve food all day, which is handy when you’re exhausted at 7pm after a long hike. 

Also had a drink in Restaurante el coyugu and coffees in Panadería Cafetería Cideres

Other useful information

🅿️ If your hotel doesn’t offer parking, there is a large, free parking lot in town

🧺 In this parking lot is a laundromat that accepts credit cards

🏧 There are three banks in town

🛒 There are two small supermarkets, and a couple of delicatessens

💊 There is a pharmacy in Las Arenas

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Cass

Cass is a British-born travel writer who lives in southern Spain. Prior to moving to Spain, Cass and her family lived in Yucatán, Mexico for many years. Something of a self-confessed-all-round travel-nerd, Cass has a deep love of adventure, and of learning as much as possible about every place visited. This blog is testament to that. All writing and photos on this website have been certified AI free by ProudlyHuman.