Zafra, Extremadura’s beautiful “Sevilla Chica”

Published by Cass on

green text box: everything you need to know to visit zafra, 4 photos of zafra. one of parador, one of section of parador, one of arches and one of castle nearby

Often referred to as “La Sevilla Chica”, Little Sevilla, Zafra is most certainly not on any tourist path despite its laidback charm, beauty, and truly wonderful food. 

This, my friends, is why I recommend visiting.

Zafra is an absolute delight of a small town in southern Extremadura and it’s a great place to spend a few days, especially if you want to get away from the crowds of tourists in Andalucía.  

​I recently spent three nights in Zafra, getting to know the city, its history and surroundings.

If you’re looking for a quiet get away, a lovely weekend destination or even somewhere to visit for the day from Sevilla, Zafra, in my opinion, ticks all the boxes. 

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Where exactly is Zafra?

Zafra in located in the province of Badajoz in the Autonomous Community of Extremadura.

It has a population of just 16,000 and its old town is just delightful. It lies on the ancient and modern Vía de la Plata route, as well as the Camino de Santiago Vía de la Plata.

How to get to Zafra

On the ancient Vía de la Plata, Zafra is well connected with Mérida, Badajoz in Extremadura, and with Sevilla and Córdoba in Andalucía. 

And of course, if you’re on the camino, you’re walking 😉

🚙 – the roads are in excellent condition leading to and from Zafra in all directions. A car isn’t necessary within Zafra but if you’re travelling here for a day or a weekend, it obviously makes life easier, and of course, day trips are also more fun with a car.

Check rental car options now

→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to driving in Spain

🅿️ you can’t drive into the old town but there’s plenty of free parking all around – for example, by the feria ground, and all along the Avenida de la Estación.  

🚌 – the bus station is right by the feria ground, not where google maps claims it is. Search for ALSA if you want to find the correct location on the map.

→ Check bus timetables and prices on Busbud across Europe

🚆 – there are two train stations in Zafra but you’ll most likely be looking for the one on Av. de la Estación that has trains running between here and Mérida, Sevilla, Huelva, Plasencia, Cáceres & Madrid.

→ Check train timetables and prices on RailEuorope

Quick history of Zafra

zafra castle with grass and palm trees in front of it

There are differences of opinion as to when Zafra was founded (based on where people think which Roman town the name ‘Segeda’ refers to, but it is certain that there are Roman villas in the environs of the city.

Muslim presence in Zafra began in the 9th century, not too long after they arrived on the peninsula. They fortified the city and built the original castle here. Later, the castle was enlarged and refortified in the 15th century.

During the medieval period it was an important trading hub nicely located on the Vía de la Plata. 

In the past, Zafra was an important trading hub, home to a thriving Jewish community with bustling life under the arcades of its two main squares—Plaza Chica and Plaza Grande. 

Where to stay in Zafra

🏨 Top recommendation: Parador de Zafra – (photo above) widely considered to be one of the most beautiful paradors in Spain, this is truly an exceptional building. Not only is it a beautiful building, it’s also the old 15th century palace I just mentioned above. Here, you’re literally staying in Zafra’s most important building. With a pool, great rooms and the chance to climb the defensive walls, this is my number one recommendation for Zafra.

🏨 Base yourself in the ‘thick of it’: Hotel Plaza Grande – right on the Plaza Grande, this is a delightful hotel with great breakfasts, beautiful decor and very friendly staff.

🏨 Relax in silence: Hotel Casa Ernestina – a few streets away from the centre, this hotel is a delight, with a small pool, continental breakfasts and extremely comfortable rooms

🗺️ Or, use the MexicoCassie interactive hotel finder to choose something more to your style

Where to eat in Zafra

Acebuche – this is truly one of the best meals we’ve eaten in Spain and I’d say it’s worth a day trip from Sevilla or Mérida just to eat here

La Rebotica also well renowned and gets great reviews but I haven’t tried it

Note on when to visit

☀️ I visited in July, and yes, it was as hot as you might imagine. If you’re not used to the crazy high temperatures of southern Spain in the summer, probably best to stick to other times of the year. Autumn and spring are a delight and I also love it here in the winter when it can get properly cold.

What to do in Zafra

narrow street with white houses on either side of road, blue sky

Zafra is a small town without dozens of activities to keep visitors entertained, this is part of its charm – simply let yourself relax as you stroll through the narrow whitewashed streets that really haven’t changed much in hundreds of years. Admire the well-preserved architecture, and peek into hidden courtyards, it’s truly a delight.

⭐️ Be sure to enjoy Calle Sevilla and Calle Jerez

⭐️ Arco del Cubo de Zafra and Arco de Jerez – the last two remaining gates of the city. The Arco de Jerez stands in a part of the city wall that was begun in 1426 by the first Lord of Feria.

⭐️ Plaza de España & Parque de la Paz – two small parks with plenty of shade. The tourist office is located in the Plaza de España and there is chess area in Parque de la Paz.

Plaza Chica & Plaza Grande de Zafra

columns and arches around a plaza

Plaza Chica – this was the original city plaza. Today it’s the smaller, yet delightful plaza surrounded by old, and slightly leaning arches. In the summer mshade is provided by hanging cloths over the whole square. The old town hall is on this plaza, and there are a few bars and restaurants, making this a good place to visit in the evenings.

Vara de Zafra – once used by merchants to keep trade fair on a column between the plazas. 

Plaza Grande – this beautiful plaza is newer than the Plaza Chica, having been constructed in the 16th century on the ruins of a medieval church and cemetery when it became obvious that the older, Plaza Chica, was too small for the city. 

Today, you’ll see a beautiful plaza with gorgeous buildings, bars, restaurants, a fountain and a few shops. We had a couple of nice evenings on the Plaza Grande drinking beers and eating too many tapas at Quesería Bar La Bendita. The ice creams from the small shop on the corner of Calle Sevilla are excellent and were deeply appreciated by my kids.

The two plazas are connected. 

Alcázar de los Duques de Feria (the parador)

parador from the plaza, sun in sky

📸 You can take excellent photos of this beautiful building from the Plaza del Alcázar (above) and from Plaza del corazón de María (earlier photo of the parador).

rounded turret on right, view over zafra from walls

This 15th century defensive Gothic palace is an absolute joy to visit or to stay. As far as I can tell from everything I’ve read, there was a Muslim fortress on this site before the defensive palace we see today was built in the 15th century. The castle is built into the town walls, replacing a rampart at what was, apparently, a vulnerable stretch, by the Dukes of Feria. An inscription at the entrance to the keep records its completion in 1443.

Top tip: If like me, you can’t afford to stay here, I highly recommend you stop in for a drink in the bar as then you can then ask to explore the defensive walls, which is a ton of fun and it’s free/only possible if you’ve been to the bar or are staying in the hotel. The views down into the inner courtyard, and out of the city, are well well worth it.

Casa del Ajimez

ornate entrance to building

🆓 I mostly wanted to see this house from the outside more than anything as it’s a gorgeous 15th century mudejar building. Inside is a small museum dedicated both to the city and to one of the city’s most famous residents, Ruy Lopez, who, in the 16th century, wrote one of the world’s first treatises on chess. 

​Museo de la Historia de la Medicina y la Salud de Extremadura

🆓 This is a small but extremely informative museum about the history of medicine and health in Extremadura. The building is beautiful, there are some very informative & fun touch screens that the kids will enjoy that can be played with in English but most information is given in Spanish throughout the museum.

Convento de Santa Clara & Santa Clara Museum

🆓 I didn’t visit this museum, nor did I buy pastries from the nuns because I don’t support churches, but I did walk through the entrance in the wall and think, yes, nice entrance. It’s a 16th century building so I’m sure it’s interesting.

Technically it’s free to visit but of course, a donation is hoped for.

🏰 ❌ An important note: Zafra Castle is not actually in Zafra, the castle that appears as the Tower of Joy in Game of Thrones is actually located in Castellar de la Muela, in Castile-La Mancha.

What is there to do nearby?

If you have a car, I highly recommend checking out some of these adventures when you’re in the area. They’re all places I have either been or have saved on my ‘must visit list’ (it’s a long list, by the way).

→ Read the full MexicoCassie guide to driving in Spain

→ Check car rental prices and availability now

📲 If you’re coming to Spain from outside of the EU you’ll need to consider your SIM options before you arrive, especially if you are planning on driving – read the full MexicoCassie review of using an eSIM in Spain.

Visit other cities

wide angle view of Mérida Roman theatre and seats. Bright blue sky
view of a medieval tower with crenelations

Cáceres – a beautiful UNESCO protected medieval town → Read the full MexicoCassie guide to Cáceres (photo above)

Mérida – this fascinating city is home to more Roman ruins than you can imagine and the museums here are incredible too. It also has UNESCO World Heritage Site status → Read the full MexicoCassie guide to Mérida (photo above)

Sevilla – world famous Sevilla is an easy 90 minute drive south, visit the Alcázar, Las Setas and see just why Zafra is called Little Sevilla → Read the full MexicoCassie guide to Sevilla

Jerez de los Caballeros – an even quieter small town in Extremadura, this is a delightful place to stroll around, enjoy a slow lunch and marvel at the views

Badajoz – right on the border with Portugal, Badajoz is a lovely town with an impressive fortress, large plaza and a few museums to keep you entertained.

Enjoy communing with nature

castle high up on hill, blue sky
salto de gitano, monfrague national park .- rocks and water, wooden fence in foreground

Extremadura is a large and sparsely populated community. Barely over 1 million people live in this region of Spain, making it one of my favourite places to drive around – it’s just trees and hills as far as the eye can see, with the occasional town or castle popping up on the horizon. It’s really a very special experience.

Burguillos del Cerro – this small town half way between Zafra and Jerez de los Caballeros is home to an incredible castle that sadly, due to the intense heat, we didn’t visit. I will 100% be getting myself there one day in cooler weather (photo above)

Nogales and Alburqurque – are both home to incredible looking castles

Fuentes de León – book a tour of the fascinating Cuevas (caves) de León

Alange – a small town on the bank of the Embalse de Alange where you’ll find the Roman thermal baths

+ of course you can visit the incredible Monfragüe National Park, (photo above) Sierra de Hornachos, the Sierra de Tentudia and the Sierra de Aracena.

📚 🇪🇸 Read more of MexicoCassie’s Spain guides

MexicoCassie guide to whether Spain is safe for tourists

MexicoCassie guide to driving in Spain

MexicoCassie guide to driving in southern Spain

☕️ MexicoCassie guide to vegetarian tapas, to breakfast and to feeding the kids

📲 MexicoCassie guide to using an eSIM in Spain

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Cass

Cass is a British-born travel writer who lives in southern Spain. Prior to moving to Spain, Cass and her family lived in Yucatán, Mexico for many years. Something of a self-confessed-all-round travel-nerd, Cass has a deep love of adventure, and of learning as much as possible about every place visited. This blog is testament to that. All writing and photos on this website have been certified AI free by ProudlyHuman.